Oh god, not another one of these.
Yes I going to talk about the loose goose, t3h green goblin, the Dreamcast Agetec.
Agetec before mod
Worn out old back plate
Before I get started here are some reference links.
Information I left out will be in one (or more) of these links
Modifying Dreamcast Arcade Stick
Agetec Mod
http://shoryuken.com/f177/dreamcast-agetec-arcade-stick-playstation-2-a-175334/#post6096420
~ DC ~ Arcade Stick section introduces modifications procedures
Google Translate of ~ DC ~ Arcade Stick section introduces modifications procedures
If you had info/ link you want to contribute please do.
Tools:
Phillips Screw Driver
Flat Head Screw Driver
T10 torx screwdriver
Pliers
Wire Cutters
Wire Strippers
Dremel with Grinding stone
soldering iron
Exacto knife
First lets get that back plate pulled off
Since I am keeping the Agetec PCB, we need to remove the buttons and stock joystick. When you are cutting the wires going to the wiring harness for the agetec, cut closes to the original buttons and stick as possible. Do not worry if you break these buttons, for they are cruddy, not as bad as older SE buttons but not up to my standards any ways.
Next we got to modify the case to accept newer arcade parts
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b261/darksakul/Projects/Dreamcast%20Agetec/DSCF1253.jpg
The joystick area after I remove some plastic so a JLF can fit.
We also have to snap off the plastic wall around each button hole.
Next we ether have to make/ order a new plexy top panel for the agetec, or go Gung-Ho and grind the crap out of the metal by hand.
I have no pictures of the modded top place or me working on the plate unfortunately.
My hands hurt too much from all the manual cutting to remember to take photos.
Although a good tip if you cutting/ drilling or grinding the top plate holes bigger is to use painters tape to protect the surface of the panel while your cutting.
Here I have the JLF mounted and Sanwa OBSF-30 placed in.
I found out later than screw in works better on this project than snap-in. And Sanwa nuts are a little big, so I went with Seimitsu screw-ins because of the smaller profile nuts have. It is still tight as hell in there. I also realized my Happ sized hands can easily destroy a snap-in of any brand.
Here is the re-wired stick, with the Agetec board, a SF4 360 pad PCB and a ChImp.
Why I did not go with a MC-Cthulhu instead? Other than I feel my way was easier, I wanted to keep the VMU slot functional.
What about the system cords?
Glad you ask.
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b261/darksakul/Projects/Dreamcast%20Agetec/DSCF1319.jpg
Instead of using a RJ-45 jack, I went with a DB-9 connector
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b261/darksakul/Projects/Dreamcast%20Agetec/Agtetec9Pin.jpg
Here is the chart I made to keep track of want wire I want to solder to each pin.
Did you forget the 2 golden rules of Dual-Mod/Multi-mod PCBs?
Nope, it hard to see in the photos, and I left it out of my chart. Inside my stick, Pins 1 and 6 are solderer together as well as pins 5 and 9. This way both the Agetec and the ChImp gets there power/ ground from the system, cables.
Now the Finished product
The joystick is a Sanwa JLF-TP-8YT (no shaft cover) with the mounting plate removed, circular gate added and the spring been replaced with a LS-32 spring. Oh and a nice Sanwa Mesh ball. I also have 6 green Seimitsu PS-14-GNC 30mm Pushbuttons for the top. I wanted to keep the original color scheme but I also wanted to spice up the appearance a bit.
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b261/darksakul/Projects/Dreamcast%20Agetec/DSCF1316.jpg
2 Green Sanwa OBSN-24 on the side for L2 and R2 (or RT and LT for the 360)
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b261/darksakul/Projects/Dreamcast%20Agetec/DSCF1317.jpg
The Select and Home are 20 MM Sanwa snap-in, next time I should use smaller Radio shack buttons. Yes the Start button is still stock, it works fine although slightly difficult to push in the manner that there be no accidental start button pushing.
Yes I did mess up a bit on the yellow buttons I installed for Select and Home, I didn’t have the right size drill bit, so I hand cut those holes.
And here for the USB system cable I made a USB-B to DB-9 adapter just for this stick.
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b261/darksakul/Projects/Dreamcast%20Agetec/DSCF1321.jpg
Wiring for this was straight forwards, you can use the guide I have above for the pin out. Although Radio shack DB shells are hard, they are also so brittle when you try to cut them. metalized shells like I have here will conduct electricity, so make sure you insulate your connections to avoid a short. I use retarded amounts of electric tape inside. The USB jack is fixed into place with super glue and hot glue.