Nintendo switch padhack thread

Made this thread to post up information on padhacking Nintendo switch controllers. Might be useful for some building a dedicated Nintendo Switch fightstick or doing dual/tri/quad mod for their existing fightstick.

I’ll start…

Horipad for the Nintendo Switch

https://i.imgur.com/3RgLuAG.jpg

D-pad is removable and meh. At least it has a turbo (rapid fire) button.

https://imgur.com/411oCpg.jpg

Back of the controller are the location of eight screws to open the controller shell.

https://imgur.com/1xHPwjy.jpg

The PCB is held with 2 screws.

https://imgur.com/UcwuAGo.jpg

There are 4 screws that held the left and right PCB triggers. The contact pads are covered with black coating, thus you have to scrape it off to expose the copper for solder to stick. Yellow highlight are their respective signal.

  • PCB is common ground.
  • PCB dimension is 114mm x 60.5mm
  • Need to scrape off black coating in order for the solder to stick.
  • Has turbo (rapid fire).
  • Works on PC and unofficially PS3 (all inputs works except for Home button).

PowerA Nintendo Switch Wired Controller Plus

https://imgur.com/awpT53o.jpg

Has a micro USB port but is not wireless. Interchangable thumb sticks. Comes in two flavors: Mario in red or Zelda in black/gold (pictured).

https://imgur.com/4t4otqx.jpg

Back of the controller are the location of eight screws to open the controller shell.

https://imgur.com/AOxk14U.jpg

The PCB is held with 2 screws. Solder points on the back of the PCB make it easier to solder signal wires and are clearly labeled. Yes, those are weights on the rumble mounts.

https://imgur.com/bSX1OXn.jpg

Closeup of the contact pad on the front PCB. Noticed the two contact points that are bridged… those would be the signal. The other contact points are ground.

https://imgur.com/Incfti1.jpg

The solder points for the signals as labeled and highlighted in yellow.

  • PCB is common ground.
  • PCB dimensions is 113mm x 51mm
  • Back of the PCB has spots where you can solder; front of the PCB has contact point that are large, easy to solder, and does not have any black coating.
  • Has a Micro USB port.
  • Works on PC and unofficially PS3 (all inputs works except for Home button).

Feel free to contribute to this thread for any further information on padhacking and such for Nintendo Switch controllers.

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The Power A ones are easily available to be had for like $25 at Walmart. I have one ( Legend of Zelda BotW Black and Gold) works pretty awesome. Might pick up a second one for pad hack! Especially with all those amazing Neogeo and Arcade ports that are on there.

The one controller I do not suggest for pad hacks, not just because of cost, but also of is The official Nintendo Joycons are hard to hell to take apart and put together.

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Though to add to that: when was the last time ANY first-party controller was actually recommended for padhacking?
The only one that I can think of in the last few generations of platforms is the XBO controller, and was only really recommended with the Phreakmods Crossbone adapter.

Yeah like the Ps3 when toodles made that breakout board for it, the wired 360 (which I’m not sure if it was first party or just the madcatz/gamestop one), and the XBone which was switched quickly to the Hori Fighting Commanders and Rock Candy controllers because of price and ease of hacking. So not many first party controllers. I think the dreamcast had the most potential for first party hacks because a lot of third party controller caused dead ports without hacking, that also being said we’ve had plenty Sticks and converters to that system (including the new brook converter.)

Amended my past post, I forgot to mention how difficult a Joycon can be to take apart and put back together.
It’s not iPhone repair difficult, but its hard enough to not justify it when looking at the cost.
Especially when cheaper options are also easier to do too.

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The joycons got that cool dpad mod with atomic purple I keep seeing in videos. If they ever go down I price I’m thinking on doing that.

It’s a mod, you can buy the shells on amazon.
Warring, there plenty of tiny parts, tiny screws, springs and such that can get lost, the screws are easy to strip. you need a growing and a #00 Philips screw driver and maybe a plastic splugger.

I’m aware :slight_smile: Its interesting to me. Like I said if they ever go down in price I’ll try lol

Unrelated but with in the topic of the Switch and its very important

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Raising this one back from the dead. Anyone pad hack the nintendo switch pro controller yet? Im thinking of attempting this. Just wanted to know if anyone knows if it’s common ground or not.

Try Tech Talk, many of the better skilled regulars lurk almost exclusively in the Tech Talk board

This thread has been really useful! I was wondering if anyone had posted a guide on setting up an arcade joystick with these controllers?

Same as padhacking any other controller for a stick. There are many guides on the internet for this.

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I wonder if Nintendo would use USB fight sticks to brick the Switch. Trust me, I would buy an authorized Thrid Party Switch fiht Stick IF they made a right-anded or an ambidextrous version of it. I remember a company called Beeshu which made right handed and ambidextrous sticks for the NES and Master System. (I don’t know the full story, but I’m guessing) Beeshu made quality joysticks, especially if you use a joystick in the right hand. The joystick had that nice click that wasn’t present in the Advantage. There was literally only one such thing as a Nintendo-authorized NES controller, the Vaus conroller (which is a paddle controller for the NES). The only controllers were the basic pad, the Advantage, the Max, ROB and the Zapper. Later they authroized things which a) passed their quality tests, b) were willing to pay the licensing fee and agree to terms, and c) for peripherals, offered something new that Nintnedo wasn’t making. The U Force and Power Glove were Authorized third party accesories, and there were some blatant ripoffs of the Advantage that brought nothing new to the table that weren’t. Beeshu fell in between.

They were willing to pay for license. Sega didn’t have a licensing process for the Master System until VERY Late (like Genesis late.) Beeshu made the same basic Ultimate Superstick design for the NES, and Master System, (Maybe the 7800, I wouldn’t doubt they were working on one. The 7800 was actually more popular in America than the Master System.) Then they got a Turbo Grfx 16 license for Their version of that stick. Later they made a 3 button verision called the Gizmo for the Genesis, and THAT was licensed.

Those were all ambidextrous sticks with buttons mapped index-to-index on both sides. “A B Stick B A” on NES. One problem is that games don’t let you flip the buttons or the pad 180 degrees, so games like Tutankham on Colecovision, and Side Arms and Pac-Land on Turbo Grafx 16 are backwards firing. But other than those 3 games, and maybe a few others, it was great.

But the Sega-made Master System stick was worse. It was right handed but remapped left-to-left which means if your left index finger is your rapid fire button when left-handed, the Sega made stick makes you “middle finger pump rapid fire” as much as than Stone Cold Steve Austin raises his. And trust me, that is tiring and counterintuitive. That’s why fighting games map light punches and kicks to the index finger: that’s the one you have to rapid fire fast to do E Honda, Chun Li, and Blanka rapid pump moves. Can anyone think of a game on the Master System that would be mapped well left-to-left? My suspicion is MANY more games would have benefitted from index-to-index mapping vs Left-to-Left.

How hard is it to make a system-authorized ambidextrous stick? Are all these companies penny wise and pound foolish? You have to do something to differentiate your stick. People get licensed artwork, but they are all design-wise almost exactly the same. This is an EASY way to dfifferentiate. And if you make it ambidextrous, you don’t have to guess how many will use right-handed left-handed or be a “Switch hitter” (That’d be the perfect name for an Ambidextrous fight stick for the Switch. “The Switch Hitter.” )

If Nintendo bricks my system because I use a right handed stick, (I’m even considering someone pad-hacking an authorized USB third-party Gamepad, like the Hori Pad, to show I’m trying to play Nintendo’s way as much as possible) I’ll sue Nintendo for actively sabotaging a stick and not offering an authorized way to do it.

If Nintendo says the pad is intentionally disassembled, which you need to do to pad hack, the warrantee is gone, (even if you use authorized third party Nintendo parts). The Nintendo Wii orignally advertised that the Wiimote and Nunchuk were Ambidextrous, but after about the first 3 months, they dropped all pretense on anything that isn’t a Party game, a motion-contoelled Sports Sim, or other “non-gamer” game.

Nintendo says Link is left handed in most cases, so if regular fight sticks are supposed to be right handed, would Link complain about the Soul Caliber Game Cube setup on his own game, or would he whoop 90% of us? Twilight princess was sword right, shield left, even though Link would most likely be canonically sword left, shield right. Would Link have trouble playing his own Twilight Princess game? Knowing Link is about 10% of people in the US, wouldn’t it be smart to think like a switch hitter, especially since Nintendo brought the issue up with Link being left-handed?

Padhacked a PowerA Switch wired controller (Zelda-themed) last weekend for a stick.

Pretty straightforward hack (as was already brought up earlier in this thread). I ended up removing both analog cubes and the D-pad sub-PCB for a slimmer main PCB. I used the test solder points on the back on the PCB and attached a standard 20-pin header to the front of it so that I can use wiring that’s also compatible with the pinout on a PS360+, UFB, Crossbone, etc.

Don’t think it was mentioned in this thread, another interesting bonus is that the controller ALSO works just fine on a PS3 (buttons map exactly based on their location on the controller), albeit without a working “Home” button. Which works coincidentally perfect for me as the stick this was mounted in is basically needed for Switch and PS3.

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FYI Hori did make a Switch version of their Real Arcade Pro V Hayabusa :coffee:

Also any of the 8Bitdo controllers do work with the Switch, and Brooks boards and their one gamepad works on the Switch.

No one here in tech talk cares about warranties, our unofficial motto here is “Warranty Voided”.
Also the FTC states that the “warranty voided if remove” labels are a violation of US Federal law.

Yes. I see the Hori, I knew about the Hori before I posted, but keep in mind, I said RIGHT HANDED or ambidextrous.

The last System-Authorized Right Handed/Ambidextrous Joysticks were the Beeshu Turbo Grafx 16 Ultimate Superstick and the Beeshu Genesis Gizmo. Eventually Nintendo Licensed the Beeshu NES Ultimate Super Stick, but Beeshu had to fight HARD for it. They had to convince Nintendo they were not a cheap cash-in competitor, and convince Nintendo their Superstick would be valuable as an Official NES product. The high quality clicky joystick and ambidexterity were the 2 big selling points that made it carve out a niche.

Also I heard Nintendo can’t intentionally sabotage the USB devices because Nintendo is a licensee of the company that owns USB, and I heard a term is they can’t void a warrantee for a USB device plugged in, even if not “preferred”. That’s what Sony said about the GunCon 2. It was not a licensed peripheral, but it was not an unlicensed one either. It was considered something “they had no power to issue or deny a license.”

For classic systems the one-year warrrantee has long passed. Even if I used authorized joysticks for classic systems, only non-factory-affiliated repair shops repair them.

And my Switch is over 1 year old. I was just concerned about the unauthorized Switch dock bricking. I hope I’m right that USB is considered A LOT SAFER than the Nintendo Switch proprietary standard dock connection. (Wait…Is THAT proprietary or a USB standard? If it is USB, then NOTHING is safe.)

You never going to find it.
This is already a niche feild/scene and you are looking for the most niche of the niched niche that their is.

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Hey Darksakul, if I may ask, what was the era you were first arcading in, and what was your first home system? If you are significantly younger than me, (My first big gaming time in my youth was from 1980-1985, and my first home console was the Colecovision) then maybe you don’t see my perspective as clearly. If you grew up with the NES or newer, I can understand why you see it the way you do. But keep in mind there are some older people in the group who are in my situation.

MAybe you should take my Left/Right Handed personality test

By the way, as I state in that above link, I got the world record on one credit Simpsons Arcade one player. The machine was unmodified therefore left handed. I’ve got so much muscle memory on that game that I wouldn’t play it right handed at home on my 360. I was 3 Cs and 1 B.

I hate to play the age card or sound like an old fogey, but I believe age is an issue in how this is colored. I don’t see the reason for the status quo other than assuming most of your customers are young. if you grew up on NES or newer systems, it makes sense why you see it that way. I first started 5 years before NES.