So I purchased the FS V3 about 4 months ago and was loving it. I even went and got bought some sanwa parts and modded my stick. It was great.
But then recently it suddenly stopped being detected/recognized by computer. Occasionally I would have to unplug and replug it to get it working again. Also, on rare occasions I felt that inputs were not being recognized.
The inputs would hold for a few seconds, the stick would die for a little bit, and then come back. It was starting to get frustrating just sitting there mid-game being able to do nothing.
Now the stick entirely is just not reading inputs. Iām pretty sure the pcb just crapped out suddenly. I really wish I had done slightly more research on other sticks and just dropped the little extra money and have gotten the qanba q1 instead ;_____;
im not sure but has anyone else gotten this kind of problem with their hori fighting stick v3? or possibly even their fighting stick vx?
is there any way to make sure itās a pcb failure and if thereās any kind of fix for the problem?
@MrRockkā
Before blaming the PCB, I would first look at the connection and/or integrity of the USB cable. Do you wrap the cable around the casing when youāre not using it?
@FreedomGundam No, Iāve never wrapped the cable around the stick itself. Iāve read up on people screwing up their cords like that so I tried to avoid doing that. The cableās been out and hooked up to my computer ever since, plenty of space for safely moving it around.
Iāve also tried all the usb ports all over my computer, the rear, the front panel, and both usb 2.0 & 3.0.
Strangely, after a few tries itāll eventually get detected when I plug it in the back of my computer but when I try to plug it into the front panel it would never be recognized, ever.
@MrRockkā
Have you ever tried on a PS3 itself? Iām still leaning towards it being the cable or the USB connection. If the PCB was dying, itās more likely that your erroneous inputs would be consistent, or the board wouldnāt work entirely. Not a sporadic thing. Random dropped inputs or disconnections sounds more like bad/damaged/poor electrical conductivityā¦ somewhere in thereā¦
Mainly trying to help you narrow down the issues; Iāve heard of plenty of no-name or crap-brand PCBs dying, but you donāt normally hear of Mad Catz or Hori PCBs crapping out often. Iāve had some PCBs treated pretty roughly in the past, out in the open, without ever having any issues.
@FreedomGundamā Havenāt actually tried it on my ps3 yet surprisingly, havenāt touched it in months. Well currently the stick is connected to my computer, whenever I press a button it either doesnāt respond or it registers and holds the input. Whenever there are inputs, be it one or multiple, it lags a lot in the game controller window in its settings.
When I was modding it I spliced the wires by twisting the wires together and heat shrinking it, although it couldāve been done better. The actual usb wire looks completely fine, pretty much factory new when I take a look inside the stick.
I was just wondering if it was the pcb that crapped out cause I saw a couple of reviews saying their hori fs v3 just died after a few months of use. Was wondering if the same thing was happening to me
Final mod for this stick, the Canadian tire mod. The plastic kitchen board is much easier to cut and drill. Because the Kitchen board is quite thick, I canāt mount the joystick using the mounting plate. So I decided to mount the stick using method Freedom gave me. The original v3 screws for the stick is too short for JLF, so I had to get new screws as well.
The final stick height is just about a tiny bit higher than Madcatz stick. The surface is quite comfy, and I am sure the board is quite durable because itās kitchen cutting board.
I got this stick a while ago and after putting a paewang pcb in it and all, I wanted to do some artwork. However, I cannot find a plexi anywhere. Does anyone know where I can find one. If not, any tips on how to create your own Plexi panel? I donāt mind getting my hands dirty.
No one offers plexis for this stick. Youāll either have to manually cut your own (what I did), or find some local shop thatāll custom cut some for you.
I donāt know what youāre looking for in terms of tips for cutting plexi; should be the same as cutting anything else. Measure, mark, measure again, cut, and drill out.
Some people recommend putting masking tape over the area that youāre drilling to prevent chipping, but Iāve never had an issue with that myself.
Left the stock stick, swapped the gate for octo. Had to drill in small holes first for the gate, then make little dents for the screw heads to fall into, just like on the stock gate. Otherwise the screws wouldnāt reach all the way down.
Swapped stock buttons for Sanwa as well, did a cheap-quickānādirty soldering job for that since I donāt care for QDCs.
Considering adding a second row of buttons. Oh and getting a white balltop.
Did my first mod on a VX thanks to the info you guys put on here. Had a lot of excess wiring because I wanted to be super safe and have extra in case I messed something up. Put in sanwa buttons and jlf. I also sanded a bit underneath the jlf by hand (took way too long) since I donāt have a dremel.
Which is the easiest way of mounting the joystick on a v3? I know absolutely nothing about modding, but Iāve read through this thread and if Iām not mistaken there are three popular ways of mounting the stick.
The first one is mounting it using laughās way. Iām not 100 % sure how this works, the pics in that thread donāt work anymore so I find it too hard following his descriptions. I did read tdm714ās, FreedomGundamās and Syn13ās posts on page 7 and page 10. If I understand it correctly you need to dremel and drill like in FreedomGundamās picture (page 7) and then you use the screw holes that were used to mount the original joystick to screw in the JLF. I didnāt quite understand if you needed new screws or not. On top of this you also need to cut off the āwingsā (the two things sticking out on the sides of the JLF) to make the base a square.
Second way of mounting the stick is drilling through the restrictor gate above the placement of the original screwholes (right?). Do you need to cut off the wings for this way to work aswell?
Third way is mounting it using the mounting plate. Apparently this will cause some scratching on the bottom of the case, meaning I will have to use sandpaper or something to grind the bottom out a little bit. Iāve also read that doing it this way will give you the wrong height of the stick. The right height is apparently 24mm, what would the height be with the mounting plate?
The third way sounds to me like the easiest way of doing it, since I donāt think Iāve drilled (except for maybe some in school 5+ years ago), dremeled, soldered or did anything with wire before. I should note though that a friend of mine and also another friendās dad are electricians, so I could probably ask them for help if needed. Iād rather do it myself though.
It is only destructive to one part (the black JLF housing)
Most maintainable because other than mounting the housing, everything else is not bolted down and still easily swappable (as it should)
Keeps your JLF at the correct height
May need shorter screws than the stock ones
Takes the longest to do
Method 2 is kind of in-between
Can potentially get your JLF at the correct height, if you hollow out the mounting holes and either cut off the āwingsā, or dremel the casing
Can probably use the stock joystick mounting screws
Need to drill through restrictor
Restrictor and PCB are bolted down
Method 3 is least recommended
Easiest, but at a cost
JLF not at correct height
Probable grinding of the JLF shaft with the inside of the casing
I would HIGHLY recommend looking into getting Method 1 done. Bottom line, if youāre going to go out of your way to mod this and install a JLF, shouldnāt you at least look into getting it done properly?
Alright, thanks a lot for the quick answer. Iām probably gonna do method 1. I found out my brother has a dremel and I can probably borrow a drill from a friend so equipment-wise I should be good.
In addition to the stick (I get a JLF-H with the stick) and buttons that is also a daisy chain with 2.8mm crimp connections and some wires also with 2.8mm crimp connections. The wires are pretty long but I assume I can cut them to make them shorter. Other than those things, Iām going to buy butt crimps (these ones: http://www.clasohlson.com/se/Skarvhylsa/Pr150339010). Sorry for the Swedish. I saw a lot of people use those kind of connectors to connect the buttons to the main pcb and also the JLF to the main pcb. Iāll need a crimping tool aswell, but Iāll probably be able to borrow one from the two electricians I know. Also like you said I might need shorter screws.
All was good until I realised the joystick was quite short, I tried to screw them harder but that made one of them break. The top of one screw is missing from the body, which is screwed into the JLF body. Joystick is too short, because I didnāt follow instructions. Iām really disappointed that I failedā¦but I think Iāll manage to play like this.
Yep, thatās why you have to āhollow outā the JLF to somewhat fit over the existing mounting posts.
Pretty much like this (different stick casing pictured), but the idea is there. But you also donāt want to fit it all in completely, as that will net you a stick thatās too high:
As long as you learn with your experience.
Remember, replacing a JLF body (which is what Iām assuming broke a bit?) is only like $10 or something, so not a very expensive part to replace if you should need to do that down the line.
I didnāt think it did a big difference since you said somewhere that you only drilled 2-3 mm. I wanted to get the wiring down first and maybe drill tomorrow or so. And itās not the body thatās broken. Thereās a screw that broke when I was trying to tighten it. So the top of the screw is no longer attached to the rest of it, which is stuck in the JLF body + V3 case. So itās not as simple as just replacing the JLF body unfortunately.
