That’s definitely an option. While I haven’t had the opportunity to use your end-products in-person, from what I’ve seen online, they look totally top-notch.
On the other hand, as far as I know, I’m not sure that an adapter plate would work for this casing… it’s already slim to the point that the JLF itself needs to be ground down and mounted further into the stock mounts so that the end result is a JLF at a proper height (instead of being too deep if mounted without any modifications). I’m hoping you could surprise me, but I don’t see how an adapter plate could solve this without crazy amounts of dremeling; which brings us in full circle since the whole goal was to avoid all the dremeling…
Anyhow, I’m very curious to hear your thoughts on this. While I no longer own this stick/casing, it’s still one of my favorites.
N/M on the surprise Freedom. I’m installing the jlf almost exactly the same as you did but I’m adding my own Custom spin to it. I should have coming this weekend.
So if I don’t mind a lower shaft height, I can just directly mount a JLF using the mounting plate? Am I understanding that correctly? I don’t really want to deal with trying to cut off tiny pieces of plastic. If that’s the case, what size screws will I need to use the mounting plate?
Maybe, I don’t remember exactly:
“Maybe yes” in the sense that you can mount the stick in with the stock mounts with the stock JLF mounting plate.
“Maybe no” in the sense that I don’t recall if the inside of the casing has enough clearance for the JLF’s innards; you may need to grind down the inner area of the bottom of the casing just below the JLF’s shaft/e-clip.
No. You actually need to recess the 4 holes in the JLF to be able to mount it properly; they need to fit over the mounting posts by 2-3mm. Otherwise the stick ends up too short.
The sub-PCB for the buttons is just for their stock buttons. Scrap it and you can connect your buttons straight to the main PCB.
Yep, pretty much. Alternatively, you can forego the header and existing ribbon cable entirely and solder directly to the PCB; there’s good solder points for that and they’re clearly labeled.
Yes, just use a drill to SLOWLY deepen those holes. You DON’T want them completely over the posts, though, because that will net you a joystick that’s too high. If I remember correctly, you need to bore out about 2-3mm.
