You are confusing “wires” with “quick disconnects”. Wires are measured in gauge, quick disconnects in width. The numbers you mention are for quick disconnects.
But on topic, no, they are not fine; at least, not properly. 4.8mm quick disconnects equals 0.187". Those are made for larger switches like full-size Omron and Cherry switches, which are used for Happ/IL buttons. You may be able to somewhat crimp them down and get them to fit in a pinch, but this would not be recommended either way.
Sorry, meant the QD’s but thanks for the swift reply 
Is there a standard gauge for wires of this type? And can I just switch the supplied QD’s with .110"s?
For reference: http://www.ultracabs.co.uk/ipac-ready-crimped-wires-x-30-48mm---daisy-chained-ground-wire-95-p.asp
Cheers.
#EDIT: Found the correct daisy chain and wire on arcadeworlduk.co.uk, just need to wait till Jan 7th now though as they’re closed for xmas :O!!! Will post pictures when it’s all done and dandy, thanks for the help though @FreedomGundam. xXx
Hello everyone! Here’s a little mod my friend (user: chowwun) did for my HORI FS V3.
NOTE: I do not know anything about modding.
-Sanwa OBSC-30 (Smoke)
-Neutrik Jack (for detachable USB)
http://i1303.photobucket.com/albums/ag149/CdP--/IMG_3086_zps24fbfeed.jpg
http://i1303.photobucket.com/albums/ag149/CdP--/IMG_3088_zps2523c9f5.jpg
http://i1303.photobucket.com/albums/ag149/CdP--/IMG_3089_zps21b450be.jpg
If anyone is having trouble with installing the JLF these two images helped me out big time 
This one shows the directions on the PCB for the stick: http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/27/hrap3vxpcbedited2.jpg/
And this is the directions for the micro-switches relevant to each orientation: http://akihabarashop.jp/misc/sanwakopplingen.JPG
Hi guys, complete newbie here in terms of modding.
I wanted to swap out my buttons on my Hori VX to Sanwa, so I planned on buying 6 of these: http://www.focusattack.com/black-rim-sanwa-obsf-30mm-pushbutton-light-blue-black/
Then I’m buying 6 of these as well: http://www.focusattack.com/wire-with-187-quick-disconnect-yellow/
And I’m planning on getting a ground wire, but it seemed to be sold out: http://www.focusattack.com/10-connection-110-ground-daisy-chain-wire/
Where can i get said ground wire? Also, will I need anything else? I want to avoid the soldering process when I do this. Thank you.
While you dont technically need to desolder the button PCB board (you can rip it out and trash the buttons), you’ll either need to solder the new wire harness to the main pcb, or cut and twist/crimp/solder the existing wire to the QD wire like in the images above.
You can use the 2nd QD from the pair to connect all six grounds via twist/crimp/solder to the ground wire from the PCB if you cant find a daisy chain.
You’ll need .110 qds for the buttons, not .187s.
I found a 10 connection daisy chain on paradisearcade: http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/en/jamma-harnesses/686-10-connection-black-daisy-chain-110-0855742006861.html will that work fine as the ground wire? And if it does, as I twist/crimp/solder the existing wire on the main pcb to the QD wire accordingly to the buttons, where does the ground wire connect to on the main pcb?
Could you tell me why? Aren’t they the same except in thickness? I heard the thinner it is, the more fragile.
Button prongs are completely different sizes to joystick microswitch prongs.
In my experience insulated quick disconnects are much less durable than non-insulated terminals regardless of their size.
For Sanwa/Seimitsu buttons you need 2.8 x 0.5mm female crimp terminals.
Wait, no, you’ve gotten confused as well now xD. It’s 2.8mm for japanese buttons, 4.8 for joysticks.
The 0.5mm bit is important though, otherwise they’ll just slide off the prongs.
Basically, for buttons get 2.8mm (.110in) crimps - anything you buy from a specialist arcade shop will do. If you buy crimps from another source (autoparts or electronics store) make sure they are 2.8/0.5mm.
^ Corrected.
And thenceforth all was well in the land of Tech Talk.
It will never be well until Toodles rises from his grave.
Hey guys, thanks for the help. If I wanted to add artwork for my Hori VX fighstick, do I just take/rip out the front with the label “Fighting Stick VX” and just place a lami-label in place for it?
Apparently people are taking these out of the warehouses/(maybe) HORI is making them again? The Amazon page says Amazon.com is selling the V3 shipped in 2-3 weeks, and I’ve seen eBay sales for both the V3/VX just up last week.
Got this stick cheap for $30 used on eBay (auction). It’s a bit light, but due to the form factor, the weight feels just fine when on your lap, and it’s of course pretty good on a table. I actually like it more than the Namco stick because you can get a high-end joystick in the case without ravaging it with a dremel.
Hmm, hope it comes to the uk again. Well, I don’t need another but it being available is good. I agree about the weight and size, plus 6 button is cooler.
anybody know if the persona ones are still available in Japan?
Here in canada we have em on amazon for 58 bucks good deal or what? http://www.amazon.ca/Hori-HP3-59U-PS3-Fighting-Stick/dp/B0057WDBHA/ref=tag_stp_s2_edpp_url
That’s basically suggested retail price, so it’s a pretty good deal for an entry-level stick you can mod later. I’d say it’s better than the MadCatz Brawlstick stock, but if you have no soldering iron, quick disconnects, or other stuff lying around your house, Brawlstick wins for its foolproof modding process if you plan to install Sanwa/Seimitsu parts later on.
With the money you eventually sink into modding your brawlstick (minimum $40) , you are better off looking into the $150 to $175 ranged sticks.