so i’m guessing the v3 doesn’t come with sanwas parts:sad:, i really want it though cuz it reminds me of the VSHG
My hori v3 got delivered this morning, just got done playing a few games with it.
I’m seriously impressed. Even straight out of the box, this stick is really nice. (I think I even prefer it over my namco)
It feels solid and has a nice weight to it. Some people mentioned above that it looked cheaply made; it definitely doesn’t feel cheap. At a first glance, there appear to be some imperfections in the plastic (slight swirls, colour variance) but it’s very minor and doesn’t affect the structure at all, it’s more a visual thing. I suppose it could be fixed with paint, but it doesn’t really bother me that much. I may get another one to mod once it’s released domestically.
The buttons have a convex top and slightly more resistance than seimitsus, but are very comfortable to play on. In order of button stiffness: sanwa < seimitsu < new hori
I was expecting cheap nasty buttons like the stock ones on a saturn virtua stick (you know, the ones that don’t press evenly if you press them on one side), but they’re really. really nice.
It feels practically like an OSBF with a stronger spring.
The stick comes with the regular square gate, and has quite a short engage (I think it has a shorter throw than a JLF, but it might be the engage playing tricks on me). I actually prefer it to the JLF, it feels more responsive because you don’t have to make huge motions for 41236 or 360s. My best estimate is that it’s a clone of the LS-32 or something. It does indeed have a black shaft cover. The microswitches on the stick are soldered individually, but it is a common ground PCB.
I was originally going to mod it straight away, but after being so pleasantly surprised I might hold off on it for a while. The design is nice and understated, and after the ‘fisher price’ of sticks from madcatz it makes a really great entry-level stick.
The biggest complaint I see from people is that there’s no quick disconnects on the buttons. It takes all of two minutes to desolder the board, so I have no idea really why this is such a big issue for some people. The PCB is laid out nicely and the wires are colour-coded, and that’s even if you do decide to change the buttons (the stock ones are very good). Better than the SE in every way? Definitely.
To be honest, if hori can produce stock parts like this, the ‘real arcade parts’ thing is becoming nothing more than a gimmick. Even though the LS-56 is my favourite stick ever, the gap is really closing fast.
Considering this stick is going to be even cheaper once it hits domestically, I can’t recommend it highly enough.
Very good impressions! Thanks for that. I haven’t put in as much time into this stick as I’d like to. I’m going to revisit it thanks to your words.
Could this be the next “Namco stick”? 
I actually tend to disagree with the impressions given of the stick; I actually have a more detailed write up/mod guide (I was probably on something) that I might post later after I get some case comparison pictures done. Generally, my impressions were:
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The design of stick part is very similar to stock Hori joysticks all the way to the Namco, and mostly resembles the HFS3/EX2 stick but seems more precise. It’s probably slightly worse than the Namco but seems quite a bit better than the EX2s and HFS3s I’ve used. You might be able to put a meatier actuator on it or something to kill the annoying ‘dead zone’ too. While I found it pretty good for basic moves, and was going to keep it, more complex stuff such as say, Viper’s HJC FADCs weren’t very easy to do on the stick. I had a JLF lying around, so I decided to just replace it.
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The buttons are standard Hori stock from the HRAP3s, perhaps slightly better, but not by much. It required some degree of hammering to get normals out, which I’m not really used to as I primarily use OBSFs. It was one of the first things I wanted to change (and did) because stuff just wasn’t coming out as expected.
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The case is quite light, probably about as heavy as a HFS3; which is pretty light considering its size. This is most likely due to the lack of a metal base. I don’t have a problem with light sticks, and it does seem pretty solid over all, but considering some have a problem with them I’d just like to point it out. There’s plenty of room in the case to put in weights if needed, and it saves some money on shipping though lol.
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I’m not sure what you mean by better than the SE in every way; the SE provides quick disconnects for every button, including the non standard Start/Select, and these are also colour coded. It’s very easy to swap out parts with no modding experience in the SE, but for this stick you’d probably need a guide of sorts. Overall I felt the stick felt cheaper than the SE, from the case construction to stock parts. It does seem to be slightly more moddable/customisable in the sense that the case has plenty of room though.
That’s not to say I don’t like the stick - quite the opposite; I really like the fact that it’s a very moddable case due to the height clearance and simple PCB setup. Furthermore, the button holes are the standard 30mm which is great considering the effort needed to mod the HFS3 etc, and surprisingly, the stick’s case provides adequate support for other sticks, at least the JLF - which I modded mine with, as they seem to be able to be mounted at the correct mounting height. In all, you can mod this stick VERY cleanly without much effort or experience. Finally, the proportions are great; probably most similar to the VSHG, and the 6 button layout without any plugs on a standard stick is a nice feature to have too imo.
Anyway, that’s just my two cents on the V3. I actually highly recommend it to anyone who wants to get their hands a bit dirty with modding, although it actually seems less fussy and more satisfying to mod than say, a HRAP3, which is pretty cool too. It doesn’t feel like it’s in line with the HFS3, nor does it seem that close to the HRAPs, but seems to be a new direction Hori is taking with it’s sticks, which is very encouraging.
(PhotoBucket link: http://s599.photobucket.com/albums/tt79/inthebrook/V3/)
Is this badger going to see a UK release?
wots with the vewlix style? is that wot the V is for? i like the layout of cities better but this case is much sexier and i just bought a friggin hrap se damnit
Is their an estimation on how tall the case is?
cause insides just look like a EX2/hrap3/wii. Stick mounting same as well
Yeah, I personally like the Cities’ layout too, but since its 6 buttons you could just think of it as a P2 Astro City or something 
The case is about 5cm tall, the insides are more like a licensed HRAP than the fighting sticks because there are separate PCBs for the main pcb and the buttons. In fact, the stick comes up as a Real Arcade Pro stick when you plug it into the computer.
Stick mounting is easier than the older fighting sticks because of the extra height in the case, it’s done similarly, but when finished it results in a JLF at the correct mounting height (maybe 1 or 2mm off). There’s also pictures on the net of people putting in Seimitsu sticks in as well. Overall, it’s a much better stick.
So what steps are required for modding the V3 compared to the bitch that was FS3? No hole widening and separate PCB is already a plus. For the stick, similar procedure with FS3 with the depth bonus?
i remember seeing these when they were shown/announced, then they kinda dropped off the face of the planet…
i guess they’re only being sold in japan?
I wonder if the announcement of the FSe/EX Wireless (a.k.a. wireless T6 sticks without the license/branding) has anything to do with it.
They’re easily available in Japan. I got a V3 when I went there last month.
Judging from this picture:
V3 :: IMG_7187.jpg picture by inthebrook - Photobucket,
The PCB doesn’t seem to be common ground. Anyone can confirm ?
A few questions…
I was wondering, with the stick - how would you go about the wiring if installing a Sanwa JLF, since it uses the wiring harness…?
Can’t exactly tell, since the in one of the pictures BurningKyo uploaded, a terminal is used, whilst the picture of the Seimitsu mod, the person taped the ground(?) wires together?
As for the buttons, seems pretty explanatory in the images provided, so I’m guessing the PCB that HORI places directly underneath the buttons must be removed in order to replace the buttons…?
…and for the last question, adding artwork…?
I haven’t seen a template or anything around, so if anyone could direct me to one or how to create a template, would be greatly appreciated.
This I plan to be my first stick mod.
(I’ve attempted to pad-hack a PS1 DS PCB with Korean arcade parts before, I just never finished the project - which was to build a housing…worked though! Too bad I lost the PS/PS2 to PS3 adaptor…)
Some much needed help/advice (…diagrams maybe?) would be great!
Crossposted from recent purchases thread.
One of these came in the mail today.
http://img52.imageshack.us/img52/4880/fsvx1.jpg
I’m not entirely sure why I bought it 
http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/1904/fsvx2.jpg
As you can see, HORI was kind enough to supply screw holes for joystick mounting plates. Apparently LS-55/56 mounts at the correct height, which is cool. PCB is common ground, which is also cool.
I may or may not art mod it, but it’s going to get an LS-55 (never used one before) and some quality buttons pronto.
Weird how the V3 on the previous page has the buttons wired differently, with a separate ribbon cable going to the daughterboard, presumably to toggle the ground wire for each pin high and low based on the turbo settings. Def gotta get me a VX, I’m really digging the case and layout.
That looks awesome. The VX reminds me of the Namco Arcade Stick.
How are the stock parts?
Does anyone know if it has the tab’s in the panel that go into the buttons like T5’s and some other Hori’s have?