Today I got a Neo Geo AES Joystick in that I got on eBay. Got it for a great price. Down side is it was the Shell/Case was damaged in Shipping. The seller and I are working on a agreement to cover the damage cause from him poorly packaging it. If he comes back with All or most refund I will keep stick for parts.
(Damage list. Left side corner is smashed in. Screw holes for middle bottom screw and right left bottom screw is gone. Plastic part that holds start/select is broke.
Does anyone know some technics to repairing or restoring the Shell/Case? or should I just use the inside and get a custom case to put it in?
I’m open to both, but if the original case is savable. I wouldn’t mind having a stock stick to match my system.
If I have to go custom case what would be the most inexpensive way to go, without getting something that would be hard to work with and be cheap feeling.
Yikes. That case is toast. There are only two parts that might even be considered worth keeping, and that’s the cord, and the joystick. The shell, buttons, and pcb are absolute crap. You could definitely see if anyone wants to pick up the case for parts, but neo-geo.com forums would likely be your best bet to sell those parts, and even then there’s a good chance no one would buy.
The cord is worth keeping because the Neo uses a standard DB-15 shape, but the port itself is DEEP, much deeper than any DB-15 anything you can find currently. If you want to make a Neogeo stick, you need a legit cord from a stick or extension cord, otherwise you gotta get hacky and modify some cheap plastic MIDI extension cords or Famicom controllers to get a suitable cord. So in short, any box, any stick, any buttons, plus that cord, and you have a custom Neogeo controller. Or you can wire it to any common ground stick to ‘dual mod’ neogeo to it.
The joystick is mostly an opinion thing. I frankly love them, but I think I’m one of the only people that do. It won’t work in any standard off the shelf stick because the mounting is done differently from standard joysticks; it would have to go into a custom case. But it’s a very tight throw. If you don’t find a better use for it, I could always use another in my parts box.
Yeah no matter what I would like to keep the stick in hopes of finding parts (replacement shell) one day. I know the buttons are crap. I was originally going to do the Sanwa Mod on those. Like this…
but now that the case is toast that scraps that.
I know the cord is hard to find because I have had a heck of a time finding some for the MC TE dual mod I have been talking with you about in the “official cthulhu chimp thread”. I have even read about finding the old Gameport Extension cables that are molded like the NeoGeo ones and cutting them back so the plug in correctly. But no luck on finding any of those yet in the US. May have to order over seas for those.
As for the joystick I’m like you and love it. Its more of a classic feel for me cause I remember playing my buddy’s AES with it. That’s why I wanted a AES stick anyway for my NeoCD. Just for when I wanted that old school feel.
I guess with a BUNCH of super glue I could get it back together… haha. but I would guess it wouldn’t hold up well. Maybe if I get lucking I can find a guy who has one of these that doesn’t work anymore and I can just rebuild it with that.
I’m on the neo-geo.com site as well, but barely post much in there. just here. but I will give it a go, see if I get lucky.
Ok so after all was said and done paid like $25 shipped for the stick, so I can live with that.
All hardware works, and after some superglue (hehe) I have it in full working order. Granted I still have not fixed the hole in the side, but I will try that when I have more time and better weather so it can work outside on it. Those plastic epoxy really smell bad.
But again thanks for the info Toodles.
Oh by the way Toodles… you don’t have a extra Gate that would fit that stick do you? I still like Octo-Gates a bit more the Square-Gates and would like to make a custom one with out messing up the original.
I know I’ve tried that, and discarded the idea for some reason. With the flat plate, the depth was way too low, and for some reason I dont remember, I couldn’t get an S plate on it.
From top of plate to bottom of ball it’s 31mm, practically the same as a JLF and longer than most Seimitsu sticks. I don’t see any problems to mount it at whatever height you prefer.
I’m seeing ~28 mm without the plate, so ~26.4 mm with the plate. I installed it and it was WAY low.
No big deal, I’ll do the same and install it in my cabinet and take pictures of it over the weekend.
doh, I was mistaken about the 31mm. It’s in fact only about 26mm so you need a bracketless CP (like the Naomi one in the pics below) to mount it at the correct height:
You can install a Sanwa JLF into an old style stick but it isn’t just a drop in. You need to bend the mounting plate, tighten the spring with a washer to raise the shaft, grind a little of the bottom case where the shaft will rub.
Here’s one I did by customer request. Maybe even the first and last one I do.
It’s better to build a custom stick or even mod a Hori.
I finely found someone selling just a replacement shell for the stick on eBay. Went ahead and swapped out the shells and decided to go ahead and upgrade/mod the buttons. I used Rollie Translucent 24mm buttons, but kept the stock microswitches from the stick. Mainly just to keep more of the the stock feel, but it also helps keep the button PCB in place that way.
I’m still planing on repairing the other shell. I need to try to find a few more spare parts for it, because I might try to make another stick from it.
Anyone have a extra mounting plate/gate for the stick, or a start/select panel?
