I’ll probably update this thread if/as I run into more issues getting my setup right before I solder everything together.
My stick is a ps3 stick.
Right now I’m getting confused as hell about my button layout because it seems like every pic of layouts is different. This is what I’ve got right now and I’m wondering if I should change it.
What I’m confused about is the common ground from the 360 controller, where on the ps3 board am I supposed to solder this?
I’m also not sure if I need to daisy chain the grounds on the ps3 side of the stick. If I do could I instead wire all the grounds from the 360 to the according buttons on the ps3 PCB? I’m guessing that the ps3 PCB isn’t common ground and because I’m using common ground on the 360 PCB I absolutely have to daisy chain the grounds on ps3 PCB but honestly I have no idea.
Wish I’d seen that thread before. Would have saved me frustrating hours trying to figure it all out myself!
As for the layout (Mister OP!) - It is personal preference, but I used the Madcatz layout, which is slightly different to yours: [using the default 8 button layout of:]
LP, MP, HP, 3P
LK, MK, HK, 3K
LP: X / Square
LK: A / Cross
MP: Y / Triangle
MK: B / Circle
HP: RB / R1
HK: RT / R2
3P: LB / L1
3K: LT / L2
Because that layout means that you are set as normal controller Type A on both systems. Otherwise, you have to change to Joystick Controller type, which I believe is the Hori style layout option.
Button layout purely depends on your preference of layouts. The “Madcatz” layout that Eben mentions is the SF4 layout. (due to HP & HK being the R1 & R2 (RB/RT for 360) for pad play)
I prefer the classic MvC layout. Where HP and HK are L1/R1, and L2/R2 are unused (i’m actually moving them to the right panel of my TE and throwing in 24mm’s, just in case i need to use them in MvC3 for instance, for selection and playback recording)
The way you have the R1/LB R2/RB setup, that’s a cross pollination of the two systems and both styles.
I’d recommend keeping these combinations for the R/L buttons - R1/RB, R2/RT, L1/LB, L2/LT as those are the similarly placed buttons on the two systems, rather than having R1/LT. (you can put them wherever you want on the stick, just saving yourself button confusion when swapping systems). This entire last paragraph is completely personal preference, just trying to save on possible future confusion
I think I’m leaving out the LT and RT, from what I’ve read you need to do some extra shit to wire those up. Unless there is a way to use the triggers without adding like resistors and some chip, i think thats what I saw, I need to do my layout without LT and RT.
After reading that dual modding 101 I’m still a little confused about the wiring of the ground. All I should need to do is wire the grounds for the USB correctly, and wire a ground from one of the common ground points on the 360 PCB to a ground terminal on the PS3 PCB right?
Hmm. I’ve not tried doing a padhack where you have to neutralize the triggers yet - If I were to be a guessing man tho, I’d say you would need to do this, because you are removing the plastic that keeps it at ‘0’. That’s why I’ve always done my padhacks with the Madcatz fightpads.
The grounding part of your reply makes sense tho - I grounded the joystick seperately to the buttons since it went to a seperate board, which also let me use the same ground for the Guide button that’s up on that same PCB.
@Wildwon - totally what I should have said. I always base stuff on SF because that’s the game I’ve always played - I see why he wants to change LB so it maps to R2 tho - but personally, I think he still needs to neutralize the two triggers.
ok thanks, I’m putting back on the triggers because apparently the pots will be neutralized with them on and unpressed. The only things i’m still unsure about is button layout and grounding. For my button layout I just want a layout that will match up to one of the presets so I don’t have to change individual buttons in game.
My confusion with the ground is starting to frustrate me. For the common ground on the 360 pad, are the grounds that come out through the USB common ground with the rest of the pad? or do I need to wire a common ground from the 360 PCB to the PS3 PCB? Also I’m pretty sure that I do actually need to daisy chain the grounds on the PS3 buttons/joystick right?
I don’t know the layouts off the top of my head - I’ll have to check them in game to see which (if any) would include LB as HP.
The PS3 side looks right for the standard layout A tho - just the Xbox will need messing with.
I don’t know if the GND coming out from the USB is the same or not - I’ve never tried using it - in my PS3 TE to XBox Dual mod, I used an Imp as a point to connect PS3 GND USB to XBox GND USB, then put a GND wire from one [XBOX] button to the terminal strip, and one GND from the Xbox D-Pad to the joystick connection area on the PS3 TE PCB. http://dl.dropbox.com/u/9588533/IMAG0185.jpg
That isn’t the best picture, but hopefully you can see the bits I’ve soldered.
[edit] http://dl.dropbox.com/u/9588533/IMAG0178.jpg - better!
There’s only one cable going to a gnd on the strip.
i already did his dual mod.
waiting on a hex inverter to fix up his triggers ;D
first time having to go through with a dpdt switch, and i still prefer the imps.
although, a switch isn’t as bad or as intrusive as i originally thought it would’ve been.
