Namco Noir cabinet parts

Hey. Looking for some info on these cabs.

First, does anyone here know exactly what monitor is installed on a Namco Noir cabinet? I have a couple of knockoff Chinese cabs that are basically the same thing but I’m not happy with the monitors and I’m looking to replace them soon. I’m looking for either the same as what are in the real versions of these cabs or a reasonable substitute. These are 32" LCDs and accept VGA + DVI. For the replacement monitors, I’m very much looking for a monitor with an HDMI input but I’ll probably take something without that if it’s a better option. Also not ruling out a TV if there are good enough ones for gaming at 32".

If anyone is using something nice with their Kraylix setup, I’d like to know about that too.

Also looking for some replacement overlay stickers for the monitor, control panel (1p with Namco button layout), and if possible the center panel that opens up to expose the monitor controls and control panel latch.

I’m hoping someone here either owns one of these or has spent enough time with them to be able to point me in the right direction.

For reference, this is essentially what I have - same exact body:

http://www.rift-racer.eu/image/cache/data/products/arcade/Namco_NOIR_big-700x700.png

@"Lemony Vengeance"‌

He knows he has one of these cabs

You can panels and panel overlays from Jason hicks

Kraylix recommends Samsung UN32EH4003 720p, UN32EH500 is the 1080p version with around 2 frames of lag, Sony kdl-32w700b(w705b,w706b) has decent response time and the best input lag at 14ms for a 32"+ screen

Hey, Hello :slight_smile: I have a knock off cabinet and I’ve damn near gutted the damn thing to make it work properly :slight_smile: I’ve also replaced the CP with something from AMP UP Customs and it looks niiice. The monitors in the clones are nearly the same that Namco use in the real deal. Infact, here’s a post from the neo-geo forums that talk about this:

INFO DUMP INCOMING

neo-geo.com/forums/showthread.php?235256-Tekken-6-Noir-cab-(REAL-VS-CLONE)

I have my Xbox One in mine, with a HDMI to DVI converter moving the video. I have an optical to analog (L/R) audio converter in there, and a Sega Naomi Stereo amp. this thing blasts! Here’s my buildout:

http://forums.shoryuken.com/t/utah-thread-not-everyone-is-mormon-just-the-majority/126028/9218:

Spoiler

As for overlay from official namco cabs, I’m in the same boat. these “clone” cabs have some janky pixelated art and I’d like a repo if possible. the issue is, there aren’t any vector art scans available. Not many people have a legit version of this cab, and even less would be willing to pony up the graphic for the kids.

Cool. I was hoping to find a monitor that also has a VGA input but I’ll sacrifice that for a known good monitor. Thanks everyone for the responses.

Lemony Vengeance: I somehow missed your response earlier. Thanks a ton for your input!

Myself and a couple of friends went in on a group buy last year for 2 each of what looks like the exact same cabinet you have and we’ve been going through similar growing pains. I think the main difference I found on ours is that each of the cabs came with 2 player panels and we ended up getting 1p panels to replace them since we’re doing H2H on ours. However, beyond that the most common thing we found is that all of the cabs had non-uniform “features”, including things like the JAMMA wiring being inconsistent, the controls inside the center panel being different from one cab to the next, and even some little things like the power switch being in different places. Really weird how the manufacturers put these things together.

We’ve also had to take apart the damn thing to fix various problems. For my cabs, I found that one of the cabs had a consistent problem with the screen looking garbled and upon taking everything apart, I found that the power cable attached to the monitor wasn’t grounded. I fixed that and that seemed to solve that problem for a little while but then I kept running into other issues, including the screen looking fuzzy as hell in the VGA input and both inputs (DVI, VGA) just intermittently not being recognized form time to time.

I’m also trying the HDMI to DVI cable for PS3 and Xbox 360, and when I can get the damn image to actually appear, it looks really sharp and pretty. Almost makes it worthwhile to put up with all of the headaches.

Have you had the screen start blinking sometimes when you boot up the cabinet? If you do/did, any tips on how to remedy this? I’m trying to see if it might be a common problem or if I have some really shitty luck with these things. Either way, I think I’m still gonna eventually toss these monitors once I settle on a replacement I want.

I still have all sorts of things I’d like to replace/add to my setup, some of which you already did (stereo, CGA to VGA, USB ports). Almost feels like a bought a project car and I’m gonna be working on it forever.

Did you swap the 220v step up out of it? When I pulled mine, the monitor started blinking a TON. I’ve noticed that it does it alot on VGA, more so than DVI input. In DVI, it only blinks if my xbox one powers down while the monitor is on. I just turn it off for a bit to “cool down” and it works.

With VGA, especially if I’ve been using DVI, getting the blinking to stop is completely random. I agree, this monitor isn’t the greatest, but now that I have the HDMI to DVI cable, I don’t worry about VGA much.

Do you have a 2p panel? I’m thinking about getting another one of these, a LEGIT noir, and would like to have a 2p panel available, just in case.

If you want in-depth instructions on what I did, I can take pics. Also, I have another Naomi stereo amp and transformer kicking around. I can slide it your way, if you’d like.

Nah, I haven’t swapped out anything yet re: power supply or related. Do you think this is a vital step in the long run?

As far as the blinking on one of the monitors, it seems to happen equally for DVI and VGA input and happens most often after the monitor goes black when loading a game or a console startup sequence. But like you said, after turning it off to let it “cool down”, the blinking goes away. Besides this, thankfully now I’m able to get the DVI image to appear with no issues and it looks really crisp. I was dumb and didn’t take into account changing the video output in console settings (PS3).

I do still have the 2p panels if you want them and I wouldn’t mind taking the Naomi amp and transformer off your hands if you’re offering. And yeah, it would be awesome to see the steps and pics of what you did.

I too kinda wish I went with a real Noir but I ended up saving about $2000 per cab going with the knock offs so I can’t really complain. Even after springing for replacement panels, sticks+buttons, potentially going with replacement monitors, and whatever else I’ve sunk my money into on these things, I’m still way ahead financially.

yeah, I’ve been talking with Ken @ thegameroom.com and he’s given me some KILLER price breaks on the Noir. I’m local to him and have been to his place before (got my blast city from him almost 3 years ago) so we keep in touch. Just need the green to pull the trigger on it.

As for the Transformer, you can keep it in if you’d like. I pulled mine when I replaced the PSU with an 120v ATX PSU for JVS board usage. There are ATX PSUs that can be switched to 220v, but I wanted one with an adjustable 5v pot in it. They’re not common, but I managed to find one at a thrift shop for 5 bucks. I stripped the wires, put them in a terminal block, then connected them up to the JAMMA harness. I shorted the power on wire so the PSU kicks on when I flip the power switch. :slight_smile: I also wired up JVS power connectors in there for Naomi/Taito x2 usage.

With all the mods I’ve doneto it, it’s got the same basic setup as a Blast city: JAMMA with JVS power support. All you need is a jamma->JVS I/O. I’ve been thinking about adding a Sega JVS I/O in there to finish the job, but I have no clue where I’d put it. It’s seriously packed in there.

Do your 2p Panels have the red and black overlay, or the flyhigh grey and black nam-clone overlay? Perhaps a trade for a panel vs the naomi amp?

Don’t worry about not having a real noir. I like my clone, after the mountains of time I put into it :stuck_out_tongue:

So the original are better then the clones? Always was told it was the opposite.

Depends on what you’re looking for. Quality wise, yes, the original is better.

Feature wise, the clones look to have better features (Monitor input, JAMMA harness) but the quality is LOW. Like I posted above, I had to literally GUT my cabinet to make it work well.

Sounds lime my kind of project. I would preferably rip the old Jamma harness out for a The Real Bob Roberts Jamma Harness with 18 awg power lines and 20 awg I/O lines.
I already used one for my Supergun build. I would also make sure the rest of the cab up to my “standards” and I like to get my hands dirty in a project like this.

want some pics of HOW dirty it was?

under the hood. Yes, that’s the coin mech loom.

coin mech… threw that SHIT out.

pre modded… so much DUST and probably skin cells X-P .

Yes, the CP can be removed! Good for tight fits!

close up of the bolt holes for the CP

I have some extra pieces :trollface:

Monitor model… for the ladies… :wink:

and now the biggest, most heinous issue I have with my cab:

one of the brackets that the front of the monitor bezel bolts to had broken off and was GLUED ON! Shittily, I might add. I’ll survive, but that pisses me off. :disappointed:

still not as dirty as cleaning my blast city when I first got it, but that’s a story for another thread.

Yeah i saw one of these clone ones for sale for $1495 in my area. Im all out of space in my garage & arcade room but still want to get a commerical HD cab one day. I really want the 32Deltas. Just curious how hard is it to replace the monitor?

on this cabinet, it’s not bad. Don’t know about the Delta 32’s.

Looks like alot of work. I have seen worst.

Still looks to me like a intresting project

yeah, not expecting the dirtiest cabinet award by any means. :slight_smile: