http://www.crookedjester.com/sticks/past/stick07.jpg (from jester’s site)
closest i can get you 
I heard back from Toodles - it should be a very simple mod with just a couple of inverter ICs. Don’t know why I didn’t think of that myself.
this site is amazing
nice work!
The inner rings are the 30mm cut holes for the actual buttons themselves, the outer rings are for spacing in order to fit the screw nuts of the buttons. If you dont make space for the outer rings, you will not be able to fit the screw nuts on the buttons. These layouts are not EXACTLY the same as the Japanese arcades, because most use “snap-in” buttons that dont have to worry about the size of the screw nuts; they simply dont use them. So these are my custom modified layout in order to accomodate them.
8 Button Hori Real Arcade Pro Layout…
8 Button Hori Fighting Stick Layout…
8 Button HAPP American Arcade Layout…
These are the 3 layouts I use for the 8 button sticks I do (I have slight variations for when I do 6 button sticks, called the HRAP-Left, HRAP-Right and HFS-Left, which use the appropriate side of those layouts.
I would upload my PSD primer, but its too large to attach.
I cant imagine anyone wanting anything other than these 3 basic designs.
Thanks for posting those Jaxel. I was looking around in various parts of the internet for a couple hours for something to use in making a diagram of the classic HRAP layout and could not find what I needed.
Would you mind if I made a diagram for the HRAP image on my site based on the image you posted? I’d note measurements credit for you under the image.
Once you guys manage to figure out what to do would you be so kind as to post a how-to? Myself and a lot of other people I’m sure would be very appreciative.
At least then if I can’t find a CG PCB, I can use one of the M$ controllers + the extra mod.
Thanks in advance 
Go ahead, thats why I posted them.
I just made a stick with my son and your website helped out alot thank you very much Slagcoin you the man.
Thanks 
I really like this endorsement.
Looking at things now, a controller project would probably work well in a shop class too.
It’s really not much simpler than modding an older 1st party controller to be CG - just 2 ICs instead of 3.
I’ll throw together some kind of diagram today maybe.
EDIT: Also, apologies to slagcoin for the minor thread hijack.
Ditto from me too in regards to the hijack :lovin:
I read a little about modding the older pads on Xbox-scene. Haven’t found anything about the new ones though.
Whenever you get time. :woot:
No problem. I’m actually a bit curious about using chips on a non-common ground too.
Like this?
http://forums.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=149015
Whatdya wanna know? For the matrixed boards like the early xbox360 pads and the DOA4/EX2 pcb, I use 74HC4066n chips. Neat buggers. There’s four ‘gates’ per chip. Each gate has a single input that is either high or low; standard logic stuffs. The outputs are two pins. They are never ‘high’ or ‘low’ like normal gates; they are either connected or not. Gate doesn’t care what they are, just controls whether to connect the two pins together, like a powered pushbutton. With enough of those, you can make anything common ground. A number of folks bought these small little boards I made with one 4066n chip and an inverter chip; specifically so they could use a common ground stick like a JLF or perfect 360 on those xbox 360 pcb’s.
What I proposed for that common high MS wired controller, well, Eskar knows what I have in mind, so we should wait till he gets it done to see if it works. I can only suggest at this point; I dont have one to try with.
Toodles, I was just reading through a thread on XB-scene where RDC mentions these 4066 controller IC’s. Looks simple enough to construct. Do you propose a similar idea for the common line PCB?
Just a question though, when using these IC’s on the older PCB’s (or maybe even the new ones) I understand that the In/Out set connects to the pads PCB contacts and the control wire goes to one side of the push button. Correct me if I’m wrong, but the other side of the push button is connected to ground, right?
awesome site dude.
In regards to the common ground chip setup, I’m mainly wondering about installing a joystick with a wire harness (like the popular JLF) into a PCB with multiple grounds (probably three different ones would work as a good example) on the D-pad. A circuit diagram showing the eight points on the PCB’s D-pad, the chips, the joystick’s wire harness, and whatever other needed components would be nice to make things click in my head. (This is maybe what Esker is working on.) Do you still make those chips Toodles? (PS, I’m looking to get one of your UPCB’s, but I want to study how it works when I get some time before making an order.)
In regards to illuminating buttons, how is this done with simple constant lighting? Do you just connect all the LEDs in parallel with resistors and without an added chip?
Nope. For the common line one, someone in the xbox-scene thread said using the output pin of a PIC go high did activate the button; so all we have to do is make the line go high when out buttons are pressed. In a common ground setup, the lines go low when pressed because they get connected to ground, and are high when not pressed. With an inverter, like a 74XXX04 chip, it will output the opposite of what goes in. So what I suggested was to use 2 or 3 of those chips (each chip can inverter up to 6 lines) to inverter what our buttons are doing.
Correct, but incomplete. Because our pushbuttons go low when pressed, and the 4066 chips connect the two pins when the input is high, we need an inverter between our pushbutton lines and the 4066.
Let me know if you have any questions or suggestions about the UPCB; you can ask any of my customers, I listen very hard to suggestions and help out as best as I possibly can.
As for the little boards, yes, I still have a number of them. I can’t find any images of the board itself, but if you just want to get an idea of how it works, check this:
http://forums.shoryuken.com/showpost.php?p=3857515&postcount=302
If you want more info, let me know and I’ll dig up a picture of the boards. The ones I have have six spots on one side for the stick itself (power, ground, up, down, left right. You dont need the power line for JLF’s, but do for Sanwa Flash and p360’s) and ten for the PCB itself (power and ground which are both required to power the chips, and two wires each for up, down, left, and right.)
Yup, that’ll work. Just take care to not use an excessive amount of current; you don’t want to blow any fuses.
Since there seems to be a little miscommunication, I’d like to clear something up - I don’t yet have a common-line PCA to work with. I’m just trying to get the theory straight in my head before I go out and get one to test - and no guarantees that I’ll end up with one anyway since there’s not much indication on the outside as to what board’s in there.