For a game like MK…you’d be surprised at how well the layout works.
Playing arcade UMK = hand cramps like a motherfucker.
Versus what ?
Based on those closeup pics on PDP website, it looks like a very nicely made enclosure.
Some ponts:
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The problem with current Happ parts is they don’t have nearly as good quality control as IL and use inferior E-Switch microswitches. Also the Happ dustwashers with the ridge suck and scratch control panels more easily than other brands.
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The buttons are Concaves with horizontal microswitches. They are mechanically the same as Happ Comps/IL Convex (Happ buttons having quality control isssues of course). They ARE NOT HAPP ULTIMATES. Happ Ultimates are concave with VERTICAL microswitches. They are the ones that were the cause of much finger rape. As DreamTR said, Sanwa buttons were always better made though as IL made the poor design choice of using the same form of microswitch for the buttons as the joystick and Happ made this worse back in the day by using the lower cost Cherry models instead of the more expensive, more durable ones. It didn’t really show that much on a joystick where you are slamming them with a big plastic actuator attached to a lever (except for Supers as the levers were of incredible low quality. Compare the levered microswitches used on Happ Supers back in hte day to say a Seimitsu LS-32), it’s another when you are basically activating them with your fingers.
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The joystick appears to be vary in the pics I see. Some are clearly Happ Ultimates others Happ Comps. Ultimates are complete shit. The Happ Comp currently made in China is mediocre but usable. Both are not as well made as IL Eurosticks though.
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Overall the worst thing about the new Happ are the new generic microswitches. E-switch or whatever are really shitty. I mean Happ used lower grade Cherry switches previously (remember the Super switches? The switches that came stock on an IL Compact bought directly from Industrias Lorenzo are much better.) but the new switches are complete ass.
The real question is if the stick worth $150. If you have the tournament edition pack that comes with the game and guide, hell yes. 70 or so for a decent case is a giant steal. Snatch that shit up and put in IL parts. For 150 by itself like the PDP website is selling, hell no. You can buy an all IL stick with the MK layout from Arcade in a Box for $162 for Xbox 360 (147 for PS3). Just the stick from Pelican will run you 150 and if you want IL parts, you will probably spend and extra 20 or so. Of course, some may just want the MK branded stick as they collect sticks like MarkMan.
Edit: DreamTR, You mean Happ and IL no longer make the Hard Springs for the Happ competitions/IL Eurosticks (they were distinct from ultimate and p360 springs)? The ones that felt really nice when broken in to wear they were just a bit harder than the stock Comp spring but eliminated the rebound of the stick that randomly activated switches?
^ tyvm.
Thanks for the info EvilSamurai. I planned on putting in all IL parts anyway but wanted to see how it felt before I ordered just out of curiosity. After reading all that makes me want to order the parts before the stick gets here. I already priced the parts a while back and love how cheap IL’s prices are compared to Sanwa and Seimitsu. I know Sanwa and Seimitsu are better quality so that is why IL is cheaper but still, cool to have a cheap mod. I’ve got plenty of Sanwa and Seimitsu push buttons laying around, but I def want that old school feel for this Mk stick. Thanks again. = ]
I don’t understand the point of buying this expensive and beautifully crafted fightstick just to tear the top off? Without the top, you have a wooden box that’s painted black, all the art is on the top panel. If that’s your intention then why not just build your own box or mod a TE with an Art Hong custom panel?
I wouldn’t say most Jap sticks are better quality. Look at Seimitsu’s vast lineup for exmaple; most of them have glaring design flaws. They are just different and have different applications. Most of Industrias Lorenzo’s joysticks are basically just slightly modified versions of the sticks they sell for industrial applications. They work fine for fighting games in stand up cabs where you use your whole arm to move the stick. For buttons, yeah Sanwa is the best arcade manufacturer but good look trying to stick them in a wooden cab and they die faster than a slutty teenager in a slasher film if you have a little kid mashing fire in an old shmup like Galaga. For sticks, JLFs are almost certainly the most precisely manufactured and IL Eurosticks the most rugged but they both suck for non-fighters.
I’m not sure it’s that inaccurate. I’ve seen some pics where it almost matches the MK2 layout and others where the layout looks like some kind of amateur MAME cab. It might vary in individual sticks or simply be prototypes.
^ I’m not a big fan of Sanwa push-buttons at the moment. Don’t get me wrong, I really like them! But like Seimitsu’s better and also heart that old school American feel I grew up on with IL. But I read somewhere that sanwa’s are good for like a million pushes or some shiz!!! So don’t get the the comment about them going out all Michael Myer’s style! hehe… I’m drunkz so sorry if that sounds lame. But need to probe cause I play the fuck out some old school mashers!!!
Don’t know where that comes from either. Based on the experiences of the arcades ops I know, the Sanwa switches are always tended to last longer than the Seimitsu ones.
As for the stick, I can’t believe they have the balls to actually charge the same price for the stand alone stick as the pack in. I mean, technically, the smart move would be to price it slightly lower (130-140 range) to make it attractive to buyers while still making it look like getting the full pack in good value.
Hands-On Video
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I’m extremely interested in this model of fightstick, there are some good benefits too it. I already own 4 of the Madcatz sticks though and am very hesitant to jump into another type of stick and button manufacturer. I have japanese buttons and sticks, ball tops and PCB’s all over the place and the last thing I need to do is start purchasing Happ and IL parts too.
With that said, still a pretty sweet stick. The real question is. . .is that top panel all wood? If it is, forget any custom button layouts or panel replacements. I much prefer the metal panel of the Madcatz TE.
Oh and True, you’re being kinda doucey. We hear your opinion, let it go.
For the everyone who likes to mod, we do have IL translucents (as well as IL joysticks and pushbuttons)
Here are our light pads that we have for translucent IL buttons:
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Which have been used in solid colors also if you make a little hole in the bottom to allow the light up through the spring.
Also keep your eyes open we have a few awesome additions coming soon that will work perfectly with this joystick.
-Bryan