Hey guys I would like to purchase some of those original factory Hori Joystick parts. Just PM me thanks.
(Meaning the ones that you have been removing of course.)
Hey guys, a newbie hoping for advice here.
I have two choices and wish to ask for advice. I want a fully Sanwa fightstick, but I want it for cheap. So I gather my two best options are:
1: Getting a Hori Fightstick 3, and modding it as you have all done brilliantly in this thread.
2: Buying the madcatz tournament edition used on eBay.
Bear in mind I’m in the uk, both sticks are hard to find (especially the FS3, if anyone knows where I can get one for a good price, I would be VERY grateful.). The Tourny sticks on eBay seem to be going for around the £70 mark inc. delivery, which is a good price for sure. The reason that might be better over the Hori + mod, is because there is definite resale value in it. (at least better resale value than a modded hori)
What do you think?
Also one last question:
–If im using the 8y-sk sanwa joystick, do I need a saw of any kind? I have no tools and would really only like to buy the soldering stuff and not want to use any power tools.
Hope you guys can advise me!!!
Thanks a lot!! 
Get a TE.
Modding a FS3 REQUIRES a dremel or similar rotary tool and a power drill.
okay thanks a lot, will bear that in mind
any videos or guide on the drilling, or rotary sawing that is actually done on the stick? (just want to make sure i have a clear idea of the modding process before i give up on it and go with the TE)
*{{edit: will read through the thread just in case i missed anything but still a quick link on what needed doing in terms of the power tools will give me a clear idea of the overall process.
the one advantage of getting the hori stick (something i didn’t consider,) is the fact that buying the hori stick, then modding it slowly over time when i can put money into it would be a lot easier and a lot less guilt inducing than a one off £70 spend. especially if its my own art and colour choices etc. (i would be a proud owner of the final fantasy modded stick on the last page. for example :D)}}*
anyway still decide and appreciate any advice on this.
look up a youtube channel called coverlesstech hes mod the wii TvC stick with a JLF, which is the same as the FS3 stick
I don’t know what stuff cost in UK money but it is more expensive and trouble to mod a fighting stick 3.
A FS3 cost $30
Joystick and Buttons cost $50
A decent Dremel cost about $75
A soldering iron set, soldering iron, iron holder, solder, flux, desoldering bulb cost about $60
$20 for a wire stripper, cutter, terminal crimper.
A drill and good bits cost about $100
Then about $10 for bolts and other random things, wires proper quick disconnects.
If you screw up, then you have to start over.
Factor in the time you are reading and researching.
A used TE can cost about $100-$130 and you are playing right away.
Any way modding the EX2 is very similar. Here is a tutorial for that.
http://pineconeattack.com/2008/12/07/how-to-mod-the-hori-fighting-stick-ex2-with-authentic-arcade-parts-xbox-360-version/
They didn’t put in the entire sanwa joystick in though which I don’t like. I would have cut out the plastic to mount the entire sanwa stick in.
yeah thanks, after doing the research, and with your great help, getting the TE used is definitely the best option.
Have a few questions about the TE’s itself but will put them in a different thread.
great work on all these sticks though :D.
you only need a 1/4" drillbit for one portion of the JLF mod into FS3 and you definitely need a dremel
Hori Fight Stick Wii
I undertook this project for the challenge, and it did not dissapoint!
This is the Sanwa treatment with a LS Seimitsu 55 spring. I discovered that if you do a complete flush mount there are no clearance issues with the JLF stick. Meaning when shaving out the interior of the mounting brackets and while using a 1/4" drill bit just go all the way through.
I used the method of drilling the Jlf Gate, running the stock mounting screws through the micro switches to secure the Joystick to the case.
I wanted to try using what I had in my modding supplies box and so did this with massive 16 gauge wire. It would not have been an issue except that it is really bulky and I should have soldered it to the TOP of the PCB instead of through the bottom to create a little more room. It ACTUALLY fits extremely comfortably and there is no excessive tightness, or floating movement of the PCB inside the case.
I soldered EVERYTHING including the button wires because I was nervous that with the big thick 16 Gauge wires I would accidentally bend or inadverdently unhook a “quick disconnect” while trying to make it all fit.
The wiring looks like hell, but it is soldered SOLID!!
Haha the Joystick is a Sanwa JLF-TP-8YT-SK which of course has the Micro switches situated on a PCB…Well this part was quite educational.
I actually do have a set of extra Omron (Sanwa) micro switches on hand but after drilling all the way through the Jlf base they sat a bit unevenly and so I opted to use these guys because they just mounted better with the PCB.
I CAN NOT STAND working with teeny tiny wires!!! Since I had already started with the gigantor 16 Gauge I just opted to to cut some smaller pieces and use those to extend the microscopic directional wires that were already afixed to the Hori PCB. So I soldered and then wrapped them with duct tape as I’m out of regular electrical tape, and my remaining heat shrink wrap was to big for these pieces. Duct tape to the rescue oh yeah!
Since I was going to solder directly to the microswitches and because there is a diffference in how the Hori PCB is grounded from the way the JLF is grounded I opted to basically Dremel away and deystroy the surface of the Joystick PCB. So I thought…
After determining that I had in fact removed enough of the Joystick PCB I noticed that my UP directional was stuck as being constantly ON. Well even after physically removing a TON of the Joystick “PCB green” apparently there was still enough of it present to give me all kinds of weirdness, like left being right, up being down, and on and on…
This puzzled me greatly because I had seriously removed a ton of the joystick PCB surface! To be certain I started my trouble shooting by disconnecting what I thought was my UP microswitch. Still reading up! Holy shit it’s my freaking joystick PCB STILL working!!
Sooooo I literally shaved off EVERY remnant of green on the thing, resoldered the previously disconnected microswitch and whammo!! Perfect!!
So anyway…I also found some neat, thick circular magnets over at Radio Shack to use as added weight. They are heavy and fit perfectly inside those little interior cylinders. Since they ARE magnets they just stick themselves to the back plate and stay in place because of the plastic housing.
There is NOTHING like Sanwa parts, and this thing now actually feels really heavy, solid and strong.
I’m pleased with how it turned out but I would not recomend this as anyone’s first project as it was a LOT of “either this part will work or I guess I’m just gonna throw it away” sort of thing. Too much shaving of the plastic for my tastes.
I do have a completely KICK ASS Hori Fighting Stick for the Wii now though!! Haha
While I’m thinking about it…Massive shout outs to **LizardLick Amusements **and **Focus Attack.com **!!! Those guys are badass!!!
LizardLick is RIDICULOUSLY FAST at sending stuff out!!! I just can’t thank them enough for their incredible speed and courtesy!!! Thanks Chad!!
See you on XBL!!
Took off the copper rings on the PCB when soldering
Hi all,
My first time modding and I accidentally took off 3-4 copper rings when I was experimenting with the solder/de-soldering bulb/pump. I couldn’t figure out how to use the pump till after 3-4 tries but by that time, I had made such a mess.
Is my Hori FS3 PCB finished? And what should I do? I should have just went with a SF4 TE stick, much easier.
Should this be a warning to other fellow modders, not to ruin those copper rings?
Thanks, much appreciated.
Nevermind: Found the search function, Wish I had read through all this prior to starting. I just followed the front page post which is not detailed enough!!!
hey can somebuddy help my
i the ps3 hori arcade stick 3, and i saw al the modding with controler and all but i just wanted to change the buttons to sanwa with the same PCB an all, ONLY change the buttons to sanwa so i ask
The only thing i have to do is remove the solder from the PCB, remove the buttons and replace the with the sanwa parts and solder again???
o yeah and the stick ive heard is good so ive only going to change the buttons so id i change the buttons
how much alike with a TE is from a HFS3 mod
Just a quick question: Is the Hori FS3 PCB common ground? I’m thinking of adding some ghetto PS2 support to a FS3 so a friend can play Melty and Guilty Gear with his own set-up.
WARNING: Don’t buy any Sanwa JLF stick with the metal mount.
Hi all, I’m here to warn newbie modders like myself. DO NOT BUY any Sanwa JLF sticks with the metal plate mount. Because the screws which attach the metal plate to the rest of the stick are SO DIFFICULT to remove. The screw heads easilly strip. I’m having so much trouble trying to remove them. This is diffiniately a design problem with the stick.
So far i’ve ruined one JLF stick, and am about to ruin my second one. For the love of god, if only lizardlicks had the non metal plate in stock!!!
Is there any way to mount with the Metal Plate attached?
question about the sanwa JLF microswitches…is it possible to put these switches http://www.arcadespareparts.com/arcade_parts/sanwa_parts/sanwa_microswitch_mso2p/12159.html into the stock HORI FS3? I am thinking of doing that and getting an LS-33 spring for this stick and making it backup once I get my v3 sa or better
Yes.
Not really… I’ve had this trouble and to remedy the issue I recommend drillling out the stripped screw. It’s the best solution. Use something like a Craftsman “screw out” set.
With the mounting plate removed if you do a complete flush mount there are no clearance issues with the JLF stick. Meaning when shaving out the interior of the mounting brackets and while using a 1/4" drill bit just go all the way through each hole.
You will have ZERO clearance issues this way but with the mounting plate still attached the stick mount will be too tall for the box.
After stripping all four screws, I had to use the drill and drill downwards on the stick, and took off the heads of the screws. This took a long time, probably 5-10 minutes per scew using my power drill - standard drill bit. They are really bolted down with nuts on the underside of the JFL stick. Thank fully after drilling off the heads, you can just push the nuts off.
Then while watching a youtube video, “Modding a Wii Hori stick with Sanwa Parts” www.youtube.com/watch?v=1oKTz0fjUKA , I ended up flush mounting the stick, so that the JFL sits right up against the upper part of the Hori FS3 case. By doing this, it seems that the sanwa shaft can clear the bottom of the Hori FS3 Case. Need to test further, as I see alot of people grinding down the base of the shaft, or thinning the bottom of the Hori case.
Yup, it appears as though I can attach the bottom of the case on, rotate the stick, and no grinding on the bottom. Hope this is right.
Thanks to all you fellow modders.
Edit: Missed the post directly above. Thanks. The Stick does seems a little high compared to the stock Hori. Shouldn’t be a problem with adjusting.
I have the ps3 version of the fs3 but i want it to be compatible with a 360, what are my options?
It says that it is unavailable to work on a 360 because of a security chip that the 360s use.
Is this up to date or is there a firmware upgrade that can bypass it?
It seems like my only option is to get a ps360 although those are out of stock right now, I need something in about a week. Would it be possible to buy a 360 controller and try to replace my psb with that?
edit: after looking at the 360 controller’s pcb it doesn’t look possible 