Modding the Hori Fighting Stick 3

**huey: ** That is actually bare metal exposed from dremeling the case for more room. I had originally intended to use PS-14-G-N screw type buttons so I needed the extra room. I later changed my mind and used snap in buttons instead. So the shiny silver stuff is the glare from the camera flash on the metal control panel.

areyouken: Not sure exactly what you mean. I know that the FS3 uses common ground and I only need to hook one of them up. However, I don’t like exposed wires so I hooked all of the ground wires together and connected it to a quick disconnect instead of directly soldering it to the joystick wire harness. The wire harness has a 10-pin header on it so there are extra slots for additional wires. This was an older wire harness I had laying around for something else but the connector fits the JLF nicely so I used it on this project.

Haha… ahhh alrighty then. My mistake :slight_smile: Nice and clean mod though

Yeah I kind of figured you just cut the existing wires and connected them to other wires that you made yourself on that connector.

I’m wondering the same thing, right now i’m bouncing around the idea of either wood blocks cut down and glued on the side panels or some sort of metal block covered in electrical tape glued to the sides. Either way going to the hardware store to look around.

@coldsteel: i’m thinking of sticking (with electrical tape) some washers to the 4 sides of the inside. should add a fair amount of weight to the unit.

How’s about this, eh? I had some scrap lexan sitting around and decided it was time for a little indecent exposure on this bad boy. This addition also deftly sidesteps the issue of shorting out the PCB on the stock metal bottom plate.

Amazing, haha. If only everyone’s wiring were so pretty that they could display the guts of their stick like that. =p

quick one, what kind of gate does the fs3 have 4 or 8 way?

It has a square gate as standard, 8-way gate.

Awesome job, Indigentia.

Can anyone here answer this for me?

Hi guys, just a nubby question.

Seeing as the harness/wire I’m getting from Akiharabashop is not a Sanwa JLF-H, but rather, the Seimitsu H5P the wire colours are ordered differently - although compatible with the JLF stick I ordered.

My question is, as long as I wire up the correct pin from the joystick connection to the correct corresponding connector on the PCB, all should be fine? (i.e. the difference in the order of the wires’ colours should not matter)?

Here’s a pic of the harness that I got for reference:

http://www.akihabarashop.jp/orders/1838.JPG

And yes, I’m currently waiting for my order to be shipped :smiley:

No, the colors don’t matter as long as the pins go to the same places.

What’s a Seimitsu H5F? It looks like an LS-32…

My bad, I was meant to say H5P not H5F (the wire harness) :slight_smile: For the joystick, I ordered a Sanwa JLF-TP-8YT.

EDIT: Btw, thanks for the reply Bomberman :slight_smile:

I made a post here about my screwed up FS3 PCB: http://forums.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=178232

Basically, you don’t cut any traces for the FS3 PCB. All the round rings are connected through a trace to a solder point that’s connected to a wire that’s on the back of the PCB. This wire connects to another solder point that has a trace to the main chip. All you would have to do is follow the ring to the right solder point and you can just solder there.

I personally test it by connecting it to my PC and just connecting a known signal to a ground with a wire. The button should register on your PC if you did it right. If you short circuit the PCB, then your computer will lose connection to it temporarily and it could potentially further fuck up the PCB. =p

Ok, so how do I avoid short circuits? As long as I solder to the right points it won’t happen? What causes them?

I ask because I got a few just now when touching the right points (It showed up on screen). Though now I think about it, I might have touched two grounds.

I think you’re ok as long as you’re touching what you know are button signals and grounds. I think short circuits happen when you touch the wire to the VCC line, but I know next to nothing about circuits so I’m not really sure.

You should be fine if you just connect what you know are signals and grounds. Try following the traces as well as you can so you can make an educated guess.

Thanks so much for your help. I have now identified each button and all are potentially saveable. I found out that the issue was one of my buttons had the signal + ground soldered so closely they were touching.

Hurry While they last

I just found a couple of sites with Fight sticks in stock for decent prices. Just Letting people know just in case they are looking for one. Hope it helps someone out.

http://store.videogamecentral.com/ps3-hori-arcade-stick.html

http://store.videogamecentral.com/ps3-hori-real-arcade-pro-3-arcade-joystick.html

http://www.amazon.com/PS3-Fighting-Stick-3-Playstation/dp/B000MWE3BI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&s=videogames&qid=1237060655&sr=8-3

http://www.buy.com/prod/hori-playstation-3-fighting-stick/q/loc/108/203407057.html

http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B001GDQRZM/ref=dp_olp_new?ie=UTF8&condition=new

http://www.thedropshipwholesaler.com/product_info.php?products_id=266108

is it possible to use the pcb from a dualshock3 gamepad to wire the joystick and buttons. That would result in a wireless bluethoot joystick correct ?