Sorry, I’ve been busy at work and haven’t been on as often during the day. I don’t wire the triggers (LT/RT) but this thread will get you going in the right direction.
alright…i finished my first controller hack…and…meh…i get a 70 success rate at the moment…when i set my controls to default the only things that arent working are lk and mk…but when i try a custom controller setting nothing works?..
edit: alright…seems like i cant put something on more the one button or it doesnt work…and the triggers wig out everything so i turn them off lol…but it seems my mk (b) doesnt work…ill look at it and see if i did anything wrong with it
anyone know whats up?
I can’t tell you much without a picture to see if the soldering looks bad. Removing the triggers from the 360 pad can make things screwy if you don’t get it done properly. My left and right triggers on the Saturn pad are mapped to Guide and Back respectively.
well i found that the b button on the xbox was bridged over to the right side of the b button as well…so i re soldered it and everything works fine now…i still have to turn the triggers off though…but…meh…i dont need triggers really i guess…
btw…insetad of heaving two wires on the one ground…can you put the button wire on the Y button ground instead of the up button ground?
Yeah, I would imagine so. I’d be surprised if didn’t work.
Is it really necessary to drill it? Is there any other way to solder the wires to the points.? For the Sega Saturn pad.
No, it’s not necessary if you’re a soldering ninja. You’ll have to solder to the IC’s pins which are crazy small. They can be seen in this picture below the three holes.
You just need to pick one of those two grounds. The one on the up button is easier. There’s no need to use the 5V power source. Ignore it.
Cool, thanks, I’m going to buy the equipment/parts and give it a try. I might use a different Xbox 360 controller though. We’ll see till then. Thanks for the extra info.
I’m having trouble putting the solder into the holes. -- I need three hands -- What is the easiest way to put the solder in the holes?
Second, where is the “Left” and “Right” Triggers on a Mad Catz Gamestop PCB.
sup guys…been awhile…
by the way kidvid…the LT and RT are gonna be a little harder to get to…you have to solder different things to the board in order to get them to work…i just forgot about them and used the bumpers instead lol
anyways…i bought a neo geo controller and i decided i wanna hack it into the 360 and ps2…how would you guys find out what buttons are where and what the ground is?..do you need a meter and shit…or…what?
What did you pay for it? I couldn’t find a cheap one on eBay. This seems a like a more straightforward job than the Saturn pad. I can’t help without owning one though. Here’s a pinout for the DB15:
http://gamesx.com/wiki/doku.php?id=controls:neo_geo_controller
i paid about 40 for one…
now about that diagram of the controller end.
could i tell what they are on the pcb with that? (i havent opened it yet)
No wonder. I had one working somehow though. When testing it on the PC. Those triggers would be very useful though. I will miss them. I rather have all three set as triggers but ah well. I guess I’ll use Akuma. I just can’t use character that uses All three kicks or punches.
So far testing Kyle’s personal controller, it works pretty good on Super Street Fighter 2 turbo HD remix and Street Fighter Anniversary Collection. Its awesome.
by the way i got a pad not a stick…and i cant seem to get the fucker open. the stick is clamped onto the board and i dont know the technique in which to disclamp it…:/…wtf
Kyle, i require your knowledge!
I’m currently building a custom console as a homage to one of my favorite gaming franchisees; bomberman. This is more or less me getting rid of the 25+ controllers and excessive amount of consoles and games (the only reason I have as many consoles and controllers are for these games), so adding them all together is my idea of “making sense.”
What I’m doing is putting together the bits of a snes (7x mini snes boards actually), a genesis 3 mini, a ps1 mini, a dreamcast, and a gamecube (with a second optical drive for a second game), totaling 12 games.
What is proving to be the most work is putting together 4 controller female ports that function threw all the various pcb’s so that each console will have 4 controllers. All of the housekeeping regarding button arrangements and assigning is already done (and it was irritatingly tedious, like splitting the cord from a snes multi-tap 7 ways).
I have not started working on this, as I require a few snes extension cables, and 6 snes mini consoles to have my complete list of required components. That and I also have two very important questions that I would love to have answered!
1.) What I originally planned on was making a controller female port, so that my entire console would have 4 common female ports for all 11 consoles. From the controller you created, lets assume you kept the saturn cord attached, but still wired the ground/voltage/buttons to your [whatever] controller. If you took the original cable of the saturn, cut it off say a foot out, and attached the female end of a saturn extension cord so that the wires matched up, would this in effect make a female plug for another saturn controller to connect?
Might be easier to imagine it like this;
[saturn female plug from extension cord] attached to [saturn cord] attached to [saturn pcb] wired to [x pcb] going out to [x console]
In my schematics I’m calling the saturn pcb in this case the “mirror,” since its literally taking all of the other controller wires together and acting as a sort of mirror out for one female plug.
I’m praying that that question gets me a big fat YES, because my last bits of designing and scrounging for parts have me with a pair of wonderful official sega genesis wireless IR controllers, and a pair of unofficial sega saturn wireless ir controllers (that work at a different frequency), so i could in effect have 4 wireless controllers for my project.
The second question I have for you, which I’m a little stuck on and have no idea of how to fix, is the fact that two of the systems I plan on using have controllers that require a different voltage than the majority of the other consoles, and the controllers I plan on using (which is 5 volts). The ps1 controllers, no mater what type (i have four without analog sticks specifically to save room when taking apart), all require 3.3 volts. The gamecube controllers have two spots for voltage, 5 volts and 3.3 volts, which is even more confusing.
But since i’m going from a controller requiring less voltage than the controller being used, i have to create the lack of voltage. I know that without matching voltages, it will cause the controller to dysfunction, so its important that i have make them match. Any suggestions?
(the only thing i can possibly think of is instead of connecting controller voltages from the mirror to the gamecube / ps1 controllers, is to add a separate, 5 volt current to a wire to each of my 4 mirror controllers, and leave the voltages from ALL console controllers alone)
Please post here or message / email me if you have any ideas or helpful insight! I’ve been cooking up this project for quite some time, and these are the only two tid bits of information that I do not know!
@ Monkey fist
It looks like you will be benefitted by using a UPCB some how.
http://www.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=131230&highlight=Upcb
That looks…complex.
And that tid bit seems to be a problem.
To be honest, i’m not very good at programming, and am very mechanically minded. I can visualize how I’m putting my initial setup together, and am having a hard time imagining where this pcb would take place (assuming at the moment it would be a direct connection to each console, requiring 4 for 4 controller outputs).
Thats a little above me, and the fact that I already own everything i originally wanted to use (minus multiple snes consoles and a few extension cords), it makes me initially hesitant.
I’m going to spend some time trying to read threw that entire post and try to understand it all 
thanks for the link!
Another random request of info. Kyle posted this image showing how cords are kept safe and wrapped up, and it does prove to be a safe way considering when people might jerk on the controller by accident. My console will have 20 controller pcb’s (4 for each console), + 4 mirror pcb’s, + an assortment of extension cable ends (so i can split a snes multi-tap 7 ways), and the cords coming out of the multitap for the genesis and ps1. Thats alot of cables, and can take up a tremendous amount of space.
I fully intend on truncating each and every one of the cables I just listed down to around 6 inches of working lenght (possibly more or less depending on placement in the final case). What do you all suggest is the best way of strait up slicing and dicing these cords, and then reconnecting them?
(edit; another reason i’m unsure about the upcb is because i wouldn’t know what to do with the 24 controllers i have laying around already…maybe make a pcb shirt or something?)
I’m having a hard time wrapping my simple mind around your post. It sounds like you want to build some type of superconsole with interchangeable controllers. The concept used in this thread would theoretically allow you to adapt controllers for use on other consoles. I’m not as certain about piggybacking other controllers like what you’ve described. If this worked I imagine both controllers would perform the same function. I don’t follow.
i have a better (prettier) schematic, but need to get my camera to post it. here is one of the earlier doodles i had concerning my console.
The controllers are not interchangeable. The net idea / result is to be able to play 12 games, each which can support up to 4 players / controllers, with one console, and one set (4) of controllers.
The end console will house the guts of 7x snes mini boards (along with 7 cartridge cards sticking out), a genesis 3 mini board with a game cartridge board, a ps1 mini, dc, and game cube with a second optical drive worked on (with a selector switch to choose which optical drive is given power, so the one gamecube can play 2 games). Even with all casings and plastic removed, and all excess cords truncated, the net console will obviously be quite large in size, but when compared to the giant pile of controllers and consoles and games I have now, and the possibility of making this mess wireless, I’m more than compelled to make it.
Other than the optical drives, there would be zero moving parts. The games and controller bits are meant to be permanently sealed and attached inside, and the games selectable via power being feed to that particular console by a custom powerstrip with selector switches, so I can even merge all of the a.v. cables into one single output. (although there are some trivial tid bits like having one power brick added for the 7 snes’s and a secondary selector part per snes board, and the one gamecube board with a secondary selector part per optical drive)
I’ve been putting this idea together for a while. Thoughts of merely emulating the games on an xbox have been crossing my mind, but after playing and experiencing emulated bomberman games, or any software of bomberman games not specifically made for a console (for example, ps3’s bomberman ultra compared to 360’s bomberman live, which is the same game, but ported to ps3), its more than obvious that emulation is out of the picture.