I’m not all familiar with electronics, i just follow guides online, but will a button not being “grounded” show up as constantly pressed?
Reason I ask is because the number 7 button is constantly red under windwos game controllers.
I’m wondering what the issue is… it was definitely working this time last month… but i’ve opened it up once too many times…
Could be a short somewhere on button 7. Make sure the exposed wire isn’t touching anything else.
When i modded mine I got too anxious getting the button PCB off and just bent it. One of the pads came off and that button just doesn’t work anymore (tried soldering on both sides). I could trace it to the line, but since it was one of the buttons i didn’t need (6 button w/2 hole plugs) I just left it. Just a caution to take your time!
Also, for djchen, in terms of button layouts, instead of trying to read the little letters above the pads, what you can do is look at the button PCB by flipping it over. Then you can figure out which button is connected to the PCB.
man this is totally weird…
i’ve desoldered everything, and it still shows as button 7 red on game controllers…
i can’t see any places where wires would be touching (no more wires on the button panel) i’ve gone through the pcb multpile times and cant find crap… i have no idea why it’d be “stuck”
Could it be the button? For the light to be on all the time, it’d have to have ground and a constant connection. If all your punch buttons are out, you might have a grounding issue. Post a pic?
the buttons’ not switched… there’s no buttons, no wires… i put stripped everything… and there’s still a constant light on 7 when in game controllers…
i’ve almost given up… i’ll prolly just put a cthulhu in
Post a pic of the pcb if you can.
For the turbo you can either cut the traces on the pcb
http://img188.imageshack.us/img188/6666/49468522.jpg
Or you can try snipping out the black contact pad on the bottom part of the button.
hahah i’ve given up, i’ve cut the tracks, and its still a constant red light under game controllers.
I’m soooooooo ready to snap this pcb in half!!!
yeah if everything is desoldered and wires are out, something is shorting the signal and grounds together of button 7.
i dunno which part of the pcb button 7 is… what you can do is get a razor blade or something similar and besure that there is no solder connecting any of the copper pads together (for the face buttons) by scratching inbetween copper pads. do this for whatever button 7 is, (or in this case, everything).
i dont think button 7 is turbo on the pcb
http://img132.imageshack.us/img132/7309/52127069481e5ac808e.jpg
Button 7 is… Originally L1, but youve modded it so i wouldnt know.
I think some people have gotten confused. mR_CaESaR has an issue with button 7 being stuck, H_Dee has issue with turbo randomly activating.
Cutting the traces on the pcb in that spot will stop the button from accidentally being press on it’s own, it’s still possible for it to activate if something else is wrong though.
Have you checked the wires leading to the pcb and the main cable too? Also can you check if you still get button 7 stuck when you use the ps2?
i heard some sticks have a funky ps3 layout.
Does any1 happen to have that layout?
EDIT: Or is it the one djchen posted?
Yeah, the funky layout belongs tot he default Mayflash PCB setup.
Hmm, just recieved my Mayflash in the mail, still waiting for button and JLF delivery.
On a second note, it seesm that newer mayflash models have a realistic PS3/PC layout, as such
http://img37.imageshack.us/img37/8979/mayflashbuttonlayout.jpg
My mayflash stick came with this default button layout. i actually prefer it this way, as the L1/L2 buttons are on the slope while i play with the main 6 on the right.
Crap. Forgot about my dual-mod guide. Still gotta do that.
Yeah, especially since I am, right now, in the process of fixing up mine, and have fiddled around for 3 hours not knowing where to start. 
Just make me feel like a jerk, why don’t you?
I guess I’ll get started on it now. >.>
Does anyone have any clue if its possible that I can remove the PCB under the buttons without breaking it off? My 6 button died on me, and I was told to just swap the buttons around and replace it with one of the far off buttons and just use a six button layout for SF4. The problem with this, is that the PCB seems to be stuck down by a few prongs in the top-right corner. Is it possible to lift up the PCB so that I can switch buttons around without having to break it off?
You could just unscrew the main pcb, and the button pcb and lift it all at once.
If you have the stock stick still wired, it’ll be kind of annoying. Since you won’t have much space to work with once you lift it up and start swapping things.
Alright… so… there’s a lot of information floating around for modding a Mayflash stick with Sanwa parts. I have nothing particularly new to offer in that regards since I followed the guides in this thread or elsewhere around the forum. That being said, I don’t recall seeing any guides for dual-modding a Mayflash to add in the 360 PCB. Also, a lot of the guides I’ve seen require other/outside knowledge.
My goal for this guide is to give you detailed instructions on how to dual-mod a Mayflash that assume you know next to nothing about the internals of electronics.
I’m going to assume that you have the Mayflash stick and will be using the MadCatz Retro Arcade 360 PCB. I will have to refer you elsewhere if you plan to use a different PCB since I have no hands-on experience with them. Same ideas should apply, though, and most of the guide will work.
I’m not handling the cosmetic side of things since I didn’t add a new label to mine, but there are lots of helps right above this post that I’m sure will work just fine for you.
This guide would be best with pictures, but unfortunately… the photo documenting I did is inaccessible since it’s all stored on my laptop… which is currently nonfunctional. I will link to images (giving proper credit, of course) where they are truly necessary. The rest of the time… check with the images in throughout this thread if you need to.
So, without further ado, let’s get down to business. I’m breaking things up with spoiler boxes to give a table of contents feel and have a post that doesn’t take 30 pages of print to read.
purchase/get list
[details=Spoiler]So… here’s the list of the parts you’ll need to do my mod. You can sub in your own without too much difficulty, but these are what I’m explaining things with. The list:
[list][]1x Mayflash fighting stick
[]1x MadCatz Retro Arcade stick PCB
[]8x Sanwa OBSF-30 pushbuttons
[]1x Seimitsu LS-32-01 arcade stick
[]2x 8-connection terminal strips (totaling 16 connections… 32 if you count each side of the terminal strip independently)
[]8x quick disconnects (I’d recommend getting more than that since they’re cheap and it’s nice to have spares… also… be sure to get the right size… you’ll need .110" quick disconnects)
[]a whole lot of 22-gauge wire (I recommend buying the three-color set at Radioshack since it helps you keep track of what’s what)
[]velcro to get the 360 PCB and the terminal strips to stay stationary instead of floating around in the case
[]wire strippers
[]screwdrivers
[]a dermel tool
[]a soldering iron and some solder[/list]
Uhm. I think that’s the list. I bought those two terminal strips for like… $3 each at Radioshack (got the “European-style” ones). The three-pack of wire rolls should be another $5-10. Quick disconnects are like… $0.15/each… so buy a bunch. I don’t know the best place to get a Mayflash, and you’ll have to hunt down a 360 PCB since they’re out of print. For the most part, I recommend shopping LizardLick (even if you have to wait) since Chad and crew are awesome. The rest, RadioShack has your back.
You’re going to be doing a bit of soldering, so make sure you have one that works decently and the solder that will play nice. I used the cheap-as-dirt RadioShack special… and it was less than optimal… but it will get the job done in time.
Also, you’re gonna want a hot glue gun and the hot glue to match.[/details]
planning phase
[spoiler=“physical space”]Let’s make this as painless as possible. First thing to do is figure out how you’re going to physically house all of the new internals. If you’re using the Retro Arcade PCB… it’s pretty big. You’ll want to rotate it so that the left and right sides of the PCB are facing up and down within the case. The next thing is a lot like it; figure out your wiring scheme for the terminal strips.
terminal strip usage
[details=Spoiler]Basically, your goal with the terminal strips is to avoid ever having to mess with the wiring on either PCB directly after the initial install… especially if you need to replace a button or something.
So… terminal strip usage. Here’s what I did, and I recommend you do something similar. I used one strip for the eight buttons, and I used the other strip for the stick, start, select, guide/home, and ground. On the one side I run connections from the buttons (or stick) to the terminal strip. On the other side I run two wires… one for the corresponding place on each PCB.
For example, your light kick button will need to connect to the corresponding A button place on the 360 PCB and to the corresponding X button place on the PS2 PCB. The terminal strip is then used as a bridge between all three connections.[/details]
terminal strip planning
[details=Spoiler]Knowing which connection is going where ahead of time will be helpful when you’re actually doing the work. On the terminal strips themselves, I recommend marking the far sides of each. On the first strip, mark a 1 and an 8; on the second, mark a 9 and a 16. Now create a list that tells you what will go where. For your project, I recommend the following layout:
1 - light punch (360 - X // PS3 - [ ] )
2 - medium punch (Y // ^)
3 - heavy punch (RB // R1)
4 - ppp (LB // L1)
5 - light kick (A // X)
6 - medium kick (B // O)
7 - heavy kick (RT // R2)
8 - kkk (LT // L2)
9 - directional up
10 - directional right
11 - directional down
12 - directional left
13 - start
14 - guide/home
15 - back/select
16 - common ground
In my case, I ran the power connection from each PCB through my terminal strip, leaving off the select button. It worked for me, but I don’t recommend doing the same. Instead, use this wiring scheme and make sure that you just have a considerable length of wire coming out of each power connection and then bind them together directly with a wire nut.[/details]
That’s the basic rundown of the planning that you need to do. Now we can get on to the preparation.[/details]
preparation phase
[details=Spoiler][spoiler=“readying the case”]This is the second most daunting part of the install for me. You’ve gotta do a good bit of hacking away on the case for this mod to work, and using the dremel will make a mess, but it’s plenty doable if a klutz like me can pull it off.
First thing you gotta do is get the guts out of the case. Trust me, you don’t wanna damage the PCB even if you know you can dremel things out with skill. So, start by taking off the screws on the bottom side of the case. There are six; four of them are under the rubber pads. This will remove the metal plate.
Now the two PCBs have to be removed. The upper PCB (the one that is held in place by a hunk of plastic beneath the buttons) needs to have four screws removed. I imagine you can figure out where they are. This will allow you to remove the plastic thingem, but don’t try removing the PCB yet; it’s hard-connected to the PCB that has all the brains, and you can’t afford to mess that one up. So, move on to the lower PCB. This one is attached by three screws. Remove the screws, and you should be able to lift the whole fixture out of the case… if not for the wiring attached to the old stick. Snip those wires at the point of connection on the stick itself. You want as much of the wire leads from the PCB to remain as possible since you have to connect those wires to the terminal strip. Once you’ve detached the stick, simply pop the PCBs out of the casing.
There should be the eight pushbuttons left in the case plus the four at the top beneath the brains PCB. Go ahead and throw out the eight large buttons, but hold on to the small four. (If you want to use additional Sanwa buttons for start, select, guide/home, then you could throw these four out, but this guide assumes that you will keep these four buttons intact.) Now, unscrew the stick from the case and throw it out, too.
You should be left with nothing but the empty shell of the Mayflash case. Congrats. You’re one significant step into your mod. :tup:[/details]
hacking up the case
[details=Spoiler]There’s no point in delaying the inevitable, so let’s get rocking with the dremel tool. You’ll need to dremel a good bit.
The first thing you’ve gotta do is expand the button holes. For some reason, Mayflash decided to use 28mm buttons, and the standard fare Sanwa buttons are 30mm. So… get out your dremel, attach a cylinder grinding bit, and start rounding out the holes until they’re the proper size. Keep a ruler nearby for this. It’s not the end of the world if the holes are ever so slightly too big, but it’s nice to make sure your holes are remaining fairly circular. This shouldn’t be too much trouble, but I recommend keeping your dremel on a low speed to avoid slipping and grinding too much away, making a “corner” in the process. If you have the Sanwa buttons already, you can just slip one of those into the hole to make sure it fits. A less mathematical technique, but we’re all about simplifying things, right?
Once you’ve dremeled the button holes to work, you need to dremel a new hole for the 360 cable to come out of at the front of the case. I like things to bear some similarity to symmetry in my work, so I put the hole opposite of the existing Mayflash cable hole with the center baseplate screw as the center. Just take your dremel with the same bit as before and carefully bore a hole large enough for the 360 cable to fit through from the outside (where the baseplate would be) of the case in (toward the button side of the case).
At this point, if you think you wanna add a headset to the 360 side of things (you’ll need an extension cable for the headset connection to make this work), go ahead and dremel out a similar hole wherever you want your mic connection to be.
We’re almost done with the dremeling. Swap out your grinder bit for a flat cutting wheel. You’ve gotta do your best to flatten the space that previously held the Mayflash stick in place. These means the square box and the screw holes have to go. You’re also going to need to cut down the screw holes for the old button PCB. You don’t need to kill the entire box surrounding the button area, but those screw receivers at the corners of the button area need to go. So do what you can to level them with the box that encloses the button area. This doesn’t need to be an exact science since you’re just giving yourself the most physical space possible for the MadCatz PCB to fit.[/details]
[/details]
Ugh. It’s late. I’m hella tired… and I’ve gotta wake up early tomorrow. I’ll try and finish the guide up by tomorrow night, but I’ll be running a garage sale, so I make no promises about it being done right away. Will keep it high on my priority list, though. I’m hoping this ends up being helpful when it’s all said and done.
