Hi, I’m about to hack a common ground wireless microsoft controller (Xbox 360).
I read on Xbox-scene that despite it being a CG PCB, you need 2 solder points per trigger. Something about the grounds are seperate from the rest of the controller.
I think it goes; a 10k ohm resister goes between T1 & T3 and the button goes between T1 & T2. Sounds easy enough but does the resistor have to go in a certain direction? I know there are stripes on them to tell you what they are. Thanks guys!
I am trying to work out what I do for a WIRED M$ common ground pad.
I have come up with this and think it may be right???
RoS, where you put the resistor isn’t right, it should be on one of the signals.
This video explains it very well.
[media=youtube]Ztt0cCWEcBc&feature=related[/media]
so that applies to the wired version? ignore the top and just apply the resistor to one of the bottom ones?
Thanks RxYLAB! So in short:
connect T1 and T3 with a 10k ohm resister inline somewhere when they short. Perfect. Totally ignore T2 then
RxYLAB, I looked through the guy’s youtube vids and he explains that his method works only if you’re using a microswitch that is normally closed. Sanwa pushbuttons are normally open.
Any other ideas?
OK, did some research and this is what I have. Someone PLEASE correct me if I get something wrong.
This is taken from xbox-scene talking about the older matrix wireless PCB’s:
“If the Trigger IS removed a 10k Resistor MUST be installed from LT1 to LT3 or RT1 to RT3. Any common variety 10k 1/4w will do just fine. This is to keep the controller “thinking” that a Trigger is installed and “off”, not pulled. Removing it without installing the 10k Resistor will cause it to act up in some cases, the new button either will not work or will not return to the “off” posistion when released. Pressing the new button you’re installing between 1 and 2 will duplicate the “on”, pulled effect of the Trigger. Also note that you WILL loose the Analog function on the new Trigger button, it will either be on or off, no middle ground like you can achieve by pulling the Trigger partly in. This does not change the way the Trigger acts if it’s left installed, it will still be Analog when you use it.”
pics (older matrix wireless PCB):
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f320/RDCXBG/SFAC%20Mod/3.jpg
This is taken from Xbox-scene talking about the newer common ground wireless PCB:
"*I have successfully done the triggers it like its shown above in the past [matrix] with the 10k resistors… So how would it look compared to the above when modding the common ground controllers? Any help would be appreciated."
*
“Same deal with the CG controller board, just do it the exact same way. The difference is how the controller is set up (new CG goes high instead of low when the Trigger is pulled) You still put the Resistor in the same place and wire up the new button to the same spots, nothing at all needs to be done differently.”
pics:
Again, if anyone can chime in with some knowledge about the triggers, specifically wireless common ground PCB’s, please chime in. I’m sorry if this is common knowledge already, its just that during my research, there were so many different answers that I couldn’t tell which one was right for me. Thanks to RDC for his posts on scene
EDIT: also, there is an alternate way to hack the triggers to allow them to use any common ground. You have to use a few more resistors and transistors. here
Anyone? Do resistors have to be put in a certain direction?
Na doesn’t matter.
You don’t need the resistors at all if you leave the trigger pots in place. I have done about 10 of these (early and late) and can assure you that you don’t need them. Just leave the triggers in the neutral position and use the ‘LT’ solder point shown in the slagcoin pic. That is your signal. The post directly above it is the ground. I think you knew that though.
Yeah, I guess I could do that too. Hot glue the pots and bend them down flat. I may have clearance issues with that but I’d like to remove the pots completely. Thanks cappadonna, richL
Are all Microsoft wireless controllers common grounded?
The later version of the wireless controller are mostly ground… the button’s common ground (A, B, X, Y, Back, Start, Guide, LB, RB, LC, RC) and trigger’s common ground (LT, RT) are independent from one another.
The triggers are not used for 6-button operation though, right?
Yeah, you don’t have to wire up the triggers with the pushbuttons… unless there is a fighting/shmup game that required the triggers for gameplay, other than that you can always remap the buttons on the option screen of the game.