@metalcomedy
If pc compatibility is your sole concern, I’d gut the xbone pcb and put a zero delay pc board ($10 shipped from China on eBay) in the te2. You would have to do some usb splicing to keep the te2’s usb as is, though.
MAYFLASH XBOX 360 / PS3 / PC Arcade Fighting Stick V2 Compatible with Sanwa Parts out of the box 69$
doesnt the te2 have a detachable cable if I am not mistaken though???
Yeah, that’s why I specified that he would have to do some splicing (should have added “or soldering” also) to keep the usb as is. It’s only 4 wires to connect.
ahhh okay I was just making sure. As I was confused as to what he would need to splice since the cable is detachable
The PS360+ can turn on the 360 even after it’s been plugged in for days. I do it all the time 
The PS3, on the other hand, has to be turned on either at the PS3 or with another controller. So it’s a minor annoyance.
There are other ways, but Mayflash has provided us with a JST header and we know the necessary cable exists, so if we can find a supplier it would be the best solution.
If anyone reading this is confused, the standard 5-pin Sanwa harnesses are not JST-EH (Mayflash) compatible, they are of the JST-NH standard.
Short of finding this cable, the next best thing would be to solder in a 5-pin harness.
Apologies for the tags, the quote feature isn’t working on my phone, and this is faster than doing it the old fashioned way.
@Yenjoi
Without having poked around inside a te2 myself, I’m assuming there’s a cable running from the pcb to the jack (which would be an easy splice point). If it’s mounted to a pcb, you could de-solder it (or otherwise isolate it from the xbone pcb, preferably in the least destructive way possible) and solder the zd’s cable to it. Another option would be to just take the jack out and install a neutrik pass through.
@Amerika
I thought I remembered mine only turning it on right after a plug in, I’ll have to try it again after work.
@deserada
You could buy the cable in question, but personally I don’t think it’s worth the extra cost and nuisance of placing an additional order, and I’d wager that many (if not most) who would consider this stick would be doing so because it’s inexpensive/simple to work with. Also, while soldering is also always an option, I like to present as many solder free solutions as possible, as soldering often intimidates those inexperienced (I know it did me initially), and buying the gear is another additional cost for those who don’t already have it (who again, are likely price sensitive in the fist place). We see no shortage of people here who shy away from modding because they’re afraid of soldering.
We’re on the same bandwidth, I assure you. My conciseness didn’t quite make it clear, but I am also focusing on a solderless (and foolproof) option.
The reason I won’t recommend a screw terminal is because of some of the horrors I have reworked and issues I have troubleshooted.
Properly installing a screw terminal and managing wires is not a task for a novice, and it requires a great deal of patience.
For a dollar or two (my expected cost for this cable) there is no additional labor or technical knowledge required to install a JLF.
I’m going to reach out to some contacts in China and get a quote.
Mayflash why…This would have been a hot commodity had it released 3-4 years ago!
We’re looking to have someone test this cable before shipping out a bulk of them to me (or preferably offering them individually to anyone).
I’m rather inclined to purchase one of these sticks myself, if nothing but for the purpose of testing and reverse-engineering.
Let me know if you were somehow dissatisfied with your own and are interested in selling it, otherwise I will purchase a new one.
@energizerfellow @Thelod
Before I go any further, can we confirm that the original stick is not shipped with this cable?
I need someone who purchased one of these sticks new to check the packaging and see if anything of the sort was included.
My contact is ready to fulfill a batch order of cables which I would have them sell for early adopters (assuming they do not have this JST cable), and I have also reached out to Mayflash to see if they can include it in further batches. I’ll wait for your word before confirming with them to send a sample cable out, and later a full batch.
I rechecked the packaging just to be sure, but sadly there is no cable inside.
Thank you very much. Emails are away, and we will see what Mayflash has to say. While we are talking, I may order one direct (at a discount) so that I can perform the testing.
My contact in cable manufacturing is still on standby, so let me know (anyone) if you would like to be the first to test this cable.
I will try making my own cable with these:
http://at.rs-online.com/web/p/leiterplattensteckverbinder-gehause/3116237/ (UK Link)
http://at.rs-online.com/web/p/leiterplattensteckverbinder-kontakte/3116439/ (UK Link)
Not sure if these are the correct ones and i wonder how difficult that’s gonna be without a crimp tool.
I’m impressed, and I wish you the best in that endeavor. Keep us posted.
The EHR-5 should fit, but there is also a version with integrated crimp connectors:
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/05HR-6S/455-1047-ND/527272
JST lists them as the “05HR-6S” or the “05HR-6S-P-N”, they should both be compatible.
One thing to watch for here is physical space. If you do a 1:1 pin mapping, you’ll end up with the JLF’s pins facing the buttons (if I got my mapping right) and there may not be enough physical space for larger sticks like the Hayabusa/LS-32 as the JST connector and buttons will overlap. Consider altering the pinout in the harness so the lever body is rotated 90/180 degrees.
@energizerfellow Yeah, I was worried about that as well. I’m glad you brought up the Hayabusa, because that’s exactly the one I was thinking might be problematic (confirms my suspicion, perhaps).
After a bit of thought, the best solution may be to bend the contact pins of one button over, to make room. The standard length of this cable ~6" should work for JLF levers no problem, but for larger bases such as the Hayabusa, flipping it 180 degrees may necessitate a longer cable (~10") to be safe. I’m not sure how much this could add to the unit cost (they already have 6" on hand, and would have to make new longer cables if that were to be the case), so using the standard length and bending the contacts would be most cost-effective.
@Thelod I’d forgotten to mention that perhaps buying an existing assembly and splicing a harness on would be best. They make a lot of single-connector JST harnesses of this type for RC hobbies, so that might be the way to go. Here’s a link to something which could do the job:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/15cm-RC-4S-Lipo-Balance-Charger-JST-EH-Adapter-Plug-Extension-Cable-10-Pcs-/311170581456?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item48733643d0
Rotating the lever 90 degrees so the pins face downwards towards the controller should solve both the physical space and cable length issue I think. Every lever that physically fits in this case supports it that I can think of.
Hang on… wouldn’t the same joystick cables that come with the ZD Encoder work with this? I bet those things are dirt cheap…
Yes, they would.
I have been working with a manufacturer which makes those cables to see if we can purchase them separately.
Price dropped to $60: (Merry Christmas!)
Picked one up, testing can now proceed without another volunteer.
I’ll contact the cable manufacturer and have a sample sent soon as well.