The case feels pretty good, weight is about the same as the Madcatz Fightstick Pro(maybe a little heavier).
Toughness is also quite nice, i tried applying as much force as i can with my hands on all sides and i didn’t feel it bending or anything at all.
The cable shaft cover is the only thing that feels a bit cheap.
I just played some more Ultra and realized the stick has quite a bit smaller deadzone compared to the Fightstick Pro which
makes dashing sometimes not work for me. But i suppose playing a little longer with the stick and that wouldn’t be as much of a problem.
SO like, the mental panel and overlay is a clone of qanba, exact mounting mounts. even supports seimitsu LS-32/40. Reminds me a lot of the Q1-Cut.
any indications on the PCB being common ground?
also noticed the joystick being individually soldered at points… is there no 5-pin harness for sanwa’s? also what are the microswitches (maybe they had in mind to use the same JLF micros? so sanwa swap is really easy as advertised)
Mounts are good and buttons are easily swappable. Perhaps the board even is a knockoff of the quanba seeing as it took most of the stuff from it.
But yeah the micro switches are wired to the contacts. That is the only thing that is not easily swappable.
Wouldnt you have to separate the grounds from the signals and then wire up accordingly to the harness? Or would it be better to find the contact on the board for ground and wire it from there? This is more or less kind of looking like a hori ex2 mod with the joystick. Buttons are pretty straight forward
Unless I’m missing something, the lever connection would be a very easy fix- just splice in a 5 pin harness (personally, I’d use a terminal strip for maximum versatility). I would hope that the directional grounds are shared since they advertise an easy sanwa swap in.
There’s an unpopulated JST header on the PCB, what looks to be 5-pin JLF compatible. I’m assuming this because the spacing looks to be correct (2.5mm).
If I’m right, all you would need is a 5-pin header cable (similar to what the ZD encoders ship with), no need to swap microswitches or disassemble your JLF.
It’s going to be a JST-EH female-female cable. Can’t seem to find any for sale alone, but I encourage others to look and share a link (need to get back to studying).
It is the same cable bundled with ZD encoders sold to be used with a 5-pin Sanwa header.
Haven’t tested it before, but you may be able to substitute a USB header cable. The spacing on that unpopulated connector should be 2.5mm, while USB headers are spaced 2.54mm (0.1").
That they are. Things like weight, dimensions, and general touch-and-feel bits really are just right for a small stick. I do wish that the anti-slip pads covered the whole bottom and not just ~2" squares in the corners, however. That and they were fucking high thinking that left-side cable was a good idea.
Most interesting thing I’ve noticed on mine is that the plexi is held in place by magnets. If you push from behind on the buttons or thumb hole in the battery compartment the plexi will pop right up, no tools needed. The rare earth pucks can even be popped in and out with a center punch and aren’t glued in (i.e. easily replaced by carriage bolts). The stock graphics are a vinyl cling and peals right off. The metal panel cutouts for snap-in buttons appear a bit small for Seimitsu, however, so those may require some enlarging with a Dremel.
Buttons appear to be Sanwa clones and the stick a Hayabusa clone. Feel is actually pretty good, all things considered.
One odd PCB glitch I’ve noticed is that it doesn’t seem to power on either the 360 or PS3 at all and you need a licensed controller to power on either. Another is that the player number light stays lit when the 360 console is powered down. Things like auto-detect and latency seem excellent, however.
The open 5-pin header on the PCB is indeed labeled “XY/POV” and looks to be the right spacing, so should be a drop-in for a F-F JST harness.
Wow this blew up overnight awesome. I am kinda regreting not picking this thing up now.
@thelod Nice job on the pics and info it would seem you have saved this thread.
From the pics plus the statment from energizerfellow…I would agree with deserada it looks and sounds alot like the jst 5pin header. I think ettoki sells somthing similar to the zd encoder wire?!
I cant tell from the photos but if the 4x 2pins are not soldered couldnt you just swap out for jlf 4x 2pin or seimitsu ls-56 4x 2pin. Even if soldered you could remove the existing wires strip them add .110 disconnects and sleeve for same swap maybe?
I checked ettoki they dont have a 5pin female to female but they to have a 4x 2pin to 5pin if that helps.
I just bought a MadCatz KI TE2 XBONE stick for a crazy deal despite it being slightly gimped on PC. If I could buy this instead of a PS360+, swap the PCBs or parts and have a fully functional Mad Catz PC stick and a slightly gimped PC stick for when I have friends over for $200 TOTAL that’d be huge. Anyone have any idea on the feasibility of a swap like that?
I tore into the lever itself and it’s very much a JLF clone. I tried fitting a genuine JLF PCB into it, but the clone has some extra washer retention tabs that keep it from fitting. The clone’s restrictor plate, on the other hand, is a real upgrade to Sanwa’s JLF restrictor.
The action button switches are unmarked, but the Start button does have some markings I took a pic of.
I tested the XY-POV header with some jumpers and it is indeed a standard 5-pin JST header. PCB’s logic expects the lever’s pins to be facing the buttons from my testing. Just wire two 5-pin harnesses to each other and you should be good to go.
Any other current sticks that can’t turn on a 360/PS3 from the home button these days? I assume the Qanba, Joytron, or PS360+ PCBs don’t have have this issue?
This looks like a rather decent grab for $70 the more info comes out of it. Dual-console out the box in a sturdy enough case. Buttons and stick are probably decent enough for this to be a starter stick. If you have a spare set of joystick/buttons of San/Sei/Hori/GF sitting around for the easy swap, I can see this being a rather good buy. I’m just wondering if there’s any PCB latency, and also PCB longevity. If it craps out in just a few months, it would frustrate me to no end.
@energizerfellow 's post has since confirmed the conductors are soldered to the microswitches on the lever, not .110" QDs (unfortunately). You could certainly crimp your own .110" QDs on using the existing wiring, as you suggest.
If you are referring to this part, the install would still require soldering as it does not come with a JST connector (i.e. it is one solid piece). Desoldering the header on the Mayflash board and installing this would certainly give you access to the proper QDs, if you were not able to crimp or make your own cable.