Can it be modded for SNES, Genesis, Saturn & Playstation
Like having 4 different PBC’s in there?
Why 4 PCBs?
Just use an MC Cthulhu or a Brook Retro Board for the SNES/Saturn/Playstation.
Then dual-mod a Genesis PCB in there.
2 PCBs and you’re done, and you have support for a ton of other platforms with the MCC/BrookRetro.
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I don’t know HOW you can fit 4 PCB’s into a Mad Catz TE/Rd 1 case! Most controllers PCB’s are fair sized unless you know where the signal contact points are and can cut the PCB’s down. Many PCB’s you just can’t mod like that and it’s easier at any rate just to buy a custom multi-console PCB (with screw terminals!) than mess around with soldering wiring to a bunch of old controller PCB’s that may or may not be diagrammed online!
Late last year, I upgraded the same joystick you talked about putting in multiple PCB’s with just one PCB, the Brooks Fighting PS4+. I had to cut a ton of plastic to get just that one PCB to fit into that case without it being mashed by the wiring AND making the plungers on my 30mm buttons stick! Space inside the Mad Catz TE is really cramped for replacement PCB’s like the MC Cthulu and Brooks boards unless you mod the case. The case mod is totally worth it, IMHO, if you don’t care about collectible value and want to continue using your MC joystick case into the future. For $40-$45, though, a Brooks adapter makes more sense than a full-PCB replacement unless you are going the retro-console route and want an arcade quality joystick for that.
The middle plastic with the holes under the 30mm buttons of the MC TE Rd 1/2 case serves no purpose! It looks cute and mimicks the 30mm button layout BUT it eats up a lot of space and is only useful for cinchiing/zip-tuing signal lines (when you don’t have to mod your TE) so that they don’t bunch up under the buttons and stop up the plungers!
Wire bundling has always been an issue for those early Mad Catz TE’s. I know because I opened up my old joystick cases a lot when I was modding things – changing out the control levers for models I liked better than the Sanwa JLF as well as changing button colors. I ended zip-tying the button signal lines on all the Mad Catz joysticks that I regularly used. If I didn’t do this, the wires tended to bundle under the buttons and freeze the button plungers which was annoying. This was really poor design on Mad Catz’s part. I never had wiring/plunger freeze on any of my other joysticks but they didn’t mash everything all under the 30mm buttons, either!
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