Just wanted to confirm that I used a 2009 version e 4716 madcatz with Toodles transistor/resistor method and a common ground and it worked perfectly. Thanks toodles.
Unsuccessful at getting toodles method to work on my madcats 4716 2008 version. The trigger i tried registered as being held down. O well looks like iâll be learning how to play with 6 buttons, no biggie.
But does it act like the trigger is released when you press the button?
-Yes: Then your board doesnât require the inverter.
-No: Then you messed up your circuit. Peek closely to see where the mistake was made.
I have yet to wire the entire controller but looks as if this method working for me. The button seems to respond correctly on SF4.
http://picasaweb.google.com/wliu0912/PrehackedPads#5275066502389173362
This is the pcb i worked on.
http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/4827/madcatz2008sp4.jpg
edit When i plug it into the computer it shows the Z-axis as being press down (RT). And if i press it the bar moves from a small sliver to it being half full. All i have wired at the moment is the RT button. But the button seems to respond fine in SF4 and on the dashboard.
when i press the buttons for both triggers in SF4⌠down on the d-pad and roundhouse kick simultaneously come out???
Apparently some controllers labeled â2006â have the late version pcb instead of the early one so I assume the triggers activate low. I opened the thing up expecting to have a very different looking pcb.
After testing the controller fully wired its strange the RT/LT work fine for the first couple of presses then stop working all together until i reconnect it.
same thing here with my saitek 3200 pad. have yet to figure out what went wrongâŚ
just a quick question (2 actually) will a 1/8 watt resistor work as well (for the standard trigger hack without inverter)?
also the 10k resistors used here look like they have the following coding brown-black-yellow (-gold) which would mean that they are 100k resistors, right? so the right resistors would be brown-black-orange?!? so either my color perception is off or my calculation, which is it?
Some very knowledgable people in this thread (and forum!)
Are all 8 buttons custom 360 sticks having to get around this problem? Or is there a certain PCB which doesnât need this hack?
I was planning on getting the Retro Arcade stick PCB to attempt to hack, as it looks like the best option with the simplest fix - am I correct?
well i guess the only pcb you donât have to hack would probably be the fightpad from madcatz. every other pad that iâve read about and know of needs some sort of adjustment to the triggers one way or the other.
Confirmed this works with the madcatz Retro stick as well. Only one I havenât tested this method is with the 2008 madcatz version. Anyone test this?
Just so I get it:
Iâve gone through this whole thread, a couple of times.
It seems the IC chip is the best way to go, or at least it seems a lot harder to mess something up and takes fewer parts.
I have a few hex inverters left over from college, (well, one SN74LS04N and one DM74LS14N). Iâm a little worried because they are TTL rather then CMOS. Iâm hoping it doesnât add lag or something. Also, they say the voltage they work with is supposed to be 4.5V to 5.5V, but I think it says the absolute minimum is like 2.5v. Iâm trying with the schottky one first. I also picked up the 10K resistors from RadioShack for 5 for $1.00.
Iâm wiring it up on a breadboard before I try soldering anything. Is the reason fewer people are doing it because the hex inverters are harder for some to find? Or is it because the IC is harder to tape to the controller?
This worked for me too. I didnât even use a multimeter, I just plugged the controller into the 360, went into training mode, turned on show data input, and bridged the connection between the signal and ground and just slowly turned the dial until it registered as HK or all 3 kicks.
HOORAY for not having to use resistors.
You could also determine itâs proper spin by using the âGame Controllersâ option in Windowâs control panel. This is correct placement for LT and RT, respectively. Anything else will get something wonky with your thumbstick stuck in the bottom left corner.
http://www.zombiefood.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/fullscreen-capture-4282009-70020-pm.jpg
http://www.zombiefood.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/fullscreen-capture-4282009-70006-pm.jpg
(EDIT: I have the 2007 controller)
OK, update.
I pulled off the LT⌠square turny thingie. The soldered three temporary wires and ran them to the breadboard. Before plugging it in, I verified the ground went to ground and the high side went to the Vcc. You donât want to get those mixed up⌠that way lies madness.
It looks like the 74LS14 wonât work. The Schottky device seems to prevent it from triggering⌠or maybe mine is bad. I popped it out and dropped in the 74LS04 and it worked fine. Going to pull out the other side nowâŚ
OK, everything is working fine. The picture above looks about like my control panel looked. I have the 74LS04 parts soldered to a PCB and tested it out and everything. Once I get more stuff done, Iâll see about upping a pic of it.
When you say bridge the connection, are you soldering a wire from the 3.3v to the signal, and from the signal to the button?
Nope. Once you set up your turny thing (is it called a POT?) without a ground connection, and you have a wire soldered to the âsignalâ, it acts as any other button youâve already wired. You only need to solder one point (the wire) for the trigger to work. If you touch your âcommon groundâ wire to your newly soldered âsignalâ wire, it registers as a button press. Thatâs what I mean by bridge.
Sorry if my terminology is off, I donât know much about electronics past how to solder.
If you need photos let me know.
So I am testing the connections for my triggers before I do all the wiring. I have each trigger set up with a resistor and diode (since it is going to be a dual pcb mod). When I connect the end of the diode to the common ground, I get nothing, but when I connect the common ground to the point at which the diode is soldered to the resistor, the Y rotation bar goes all the way up. I assume this means that the resistor is working, but I donât know if this means the diode is screwing things up. The bar on the diode is pointed away from the 360 pcb so that the signal wonât interfere with the ps1 pcb once itâs wired in.
Iâve checked the pad hack and 2 dual pcb threads and this is the method that is supposed to work (for a 2007 madcatz pad). If someone could help or just let me know that it will work once itâs all wired together, that would be great. I should mention that the diode is .9v.
SoâŚ
There seems to be a lot of conflicting information in this threadâŚ
After reading through it several times, it seems that there are four possible methods for getting the triggers to work, depending on the pad in question⌠There is the single 10K resistor method, the transistor method, the inverter method and the method involving leaving the trigger pots on and adjusting and gluing themâŚ
Toodles seems to have done a fairly clear diagram for the transistor method a ways back in this threadâŚI did not see any such diagram for the inverter method (there are a number of pictures that no longer seem to function), and the method to leave the pots on seems quite clearâŚ
My question is, I have a late version 2008 Madcatz 4716 common ground PCB (the one in the late version slagcoin diagram, but without the âmatrixâ pattern on the board) that I am looking to use for a 8 button dual-system PS3/360 stick using a Cthulu and Imp for the PS3 PCB with the triggers enabled. What is my best option to enable the triggers for this type of modification out of the four options listed. If my best option involves the inverter option, does anyone have a diagram of this setup??
Thanks for the helpâŚ
All correct, but Iâm going to expand on the trigger pots options, because Iâve heard a few discussed.
- Single resistor: Used when the board does NOT require inverting (and frankly, the inverting was the main point of this thread).
- Transistor method: Used when the board DOES require inverting. Pretty simple to do, easy to acquire components. Should NOT be used if planning on doing a dual-pcb mod or light up LED mod.
- Inverter chip: Used when the board DOES require inverting. Easier in my opinion to do, but the inverter chip may be more difficult to acquire. Radio Shack will always have transistors, but finding an inverter chip may be a crapshoot unless you have a Fryâs or good component store local; otherwise youâll have to order one online.
- Pot tweak âAâ : Removing the original pot and resoldering it so the outermost legs connect to the High pad and the wiper pad. Used when the board does NOT require inverting. Does the exact same thing the resistor does. No additional parts required, but requires careful desoldering and resolder of the original part; not real easy to accomplish, and IMHO, the hardest of the four options.
- Pot tweak âBâ : Leave the pot on, turn the pot so the trigger is showing as not pressed. Some folks want to then solder a button wire to the wiper so the trigger can be used; I HIGHLY discourage this. This turn and glue idea should ONLY be used when the triggers will NOT be connected to buttons. Works (without buttons) for both the boards requiring inverting and those that donât.
I didnât post up a graphic, no, but I did post up a complete âwhat pin connects whereâ for the inverter chip.
You want 8 play buttons, so option #5 is right out. You want dual-pcb so option #2 is right out. Option #4 is a pain in the ass, so Iâd say scratch that right out.
The only question left is whether or not the pad you have requires inverting, and I dont know which are which to be able to answer that for you.
If it does not require inverting, easy. Tear the pots off, and just solder a wire to the center wiper pad and connect the other end of the wire to the matching signal button on the Cthulhu. The Cthulhu uses pull up resistors already, so you can just share that one instead of adding another.
If it requires inverting, then get an inverter chip and follow the pin out I described.