Correct for 2007 model.
Correct for 2008 model only if you require a common ground for LT/RT. If you don’t mind not having a common ground for those two, you can place 10K resistor between signal and ground. Then signal and VCC goes to the pushbutton.
Can anybody shed a light on this:
I’ve hacked the triggers for a 4726 madcatz controller with a 10k resistor, but LT and RT can’t be activated at the same time (as seen from Windows parameters, as I don’t own a x360 i can’t tell what the console would detect). Is this normal behaviour ?
I thought the default config for SFIV was LT+RT=taunt ??
Second question: has anyone succesfully hacked a controller without removing the pots ? I tried this before following the advices given here and one side (i don’t remember which, maybe LT) disconnected the controller (or at least made it misbehave wrt WindowsXP) when I connected wiper and ground together. RT was working fine.
Both triggers will work at same time. its just the way it shows in windows.
I’m gopnna need to bookmark this thread, will need this for a 360 joystick.
Well, I flubbed. One one trigger, the high pad came off (easy to fix). On the other, the wiper (scraped the trace about an inch away. Thankfully, with the 2008 model, one can just remove everything and they don’t register as pulled. I only really needed six buttons on this one anyway.
Question, though. I realise now (two days later) that I wasn’t using 10k resistors, but 100k. That was my issue, wasn’t it? Boy do I feel stupid.
Thanks for listening. I think I can fix it with new resistors. Dumb, Willem. Real dumb.
^
i have the easy pcb and am trying to do the triggers now. i cant find the easy method clearly outlined anywhere. I dont know for sure what which one of the 3 holes is ground, or high. ive gathered middle is signal. I’m also piggybacking this to a toodles cthulu board so are there any special considerations to take into account for the triggers? any wiring diagrams for example showing the hacked triggers and the cthulu all set up with my pcb?
EDIT: As posted above:* "Mad Catz 4716 2007 model: 10k resistor between signal (wiper or middle pad) and high (5v, 3v, Vcc, whatever). The arcade button then takes a line from the signal and the other end goes to ground. So when the button is pressed it inputs low to the signal/wiper pad* " This worked. I didnt believe it would because the 5v high is right by the right analog stick, and all the pictures i saw seemed to contradict this, but it works.
Zombie can you please tell me which one of these controllers have common ground?
For the recyclers among you, here’s a pic showing how to reuse the pots to act as a 10K resistor. Just cut the pot’s middle pin and use the other two (and gently bend the remaining pins). I hotglued the pot but this is pointless since the wiper pin is not used.
lol awesome. i wish i would’ve know earlier. i just got done chaining 2 5k resistors for the triggers because i didnt have any 10’s. turns out i did have some the whole time but didnt know it until just now when you posted that picture. nice find man
i’m having a bit of a problem determining which pcb is which. everyone is refering to an easy / older pcb as the one slagcoin has marked as late.
the quoted picture shows RT on it near the resistor but mine doesn’t show that.
mine is a 4716 REV-G refered to by everyone as OLDER/EASY to hack but refered to slagcoins pics as LATE version.
here’s the way i wired it buy i’m not sure and i don’t want to hook everything up and have a short destroy something.
RT
LT
thanks for the help and sorry if anything is hard to see. camera phones suck and i can’t find my usb cable to my good cam.
Will this Trigger hack for the Mad Catz Retro Stick work on the Mad Catz 4716 Late Version?
@ xenon
the retro controller needs the transistor?
Retro Arcade stick needs only simple resisters for trigger hack.
NO it does not.
And you need the diode or the trigger will only activate when you release the buttton. This is how I have my setup on the retro PCB. All I wanna Know is if this will work on the Mad Catz 4716 Later Model. Thanks for your input though guys. Appriciate it.
What exactly is needed to make the triggers work with the Mad Catz PCB (All versions) break down?
Here are the pictures of my setup. Its working so far for me.
4716 madcatz 2007v
So what exactly did you do. Explain Please cause this looks so much easier then all the other solutions. Thanks in advance.
@ Tihon
thanks for those pics. those are exactly what i needed to validate that i wired up my resistors wrong. thank you.
@ Xenon
he clipped the GROUND leg of the pot for the triggers. then he did the easiest solution for resistors which was to adjust the pot till it read 10k on his multimeter. hot glued it in place then wired up the button wire to signal. this is actually the simplest way instead of desoldering the pots and putting in your own resistor.
Nice Tihon, you beat me to it ! (I thought about the possibility you posted after my own post)
Much simpler for pcbs allowing this kind of hack.
Yup thats what i did. Clipped the ground wire. Used my multimeter with one end touching the signal prong and other end touching 3.3v prong. I then turned the middle piece on the pod till i got 10k ohms (or close to it) on my multimeter. Hot glued it down. Now all I need it 1 wire from the signal prong running to the button. With the common ground pcb, just daisy chain the button and all seems well. Let me know if this works for you too.
Edit:I think i actually wired up the 3.3v prong to the button and it works that way. I will verify this tomorrow and let you know.
