That’s because you’re using a hex inverter instead of the transistor. It has a proper digital input; it doesn’t affect the voltage on the input at all, while the transistor does.
That’s why I mentioned maybe we should be pushing the inverter method over the transistor method.
Thanks for the quick response as always, makes total sense. I popped in a diode and it fixed the cthulhu, but now the trigger doesn’t work on the 360, which is making absolutely no sense to me…
You sure you dont have the diode in backwards? The band should be away from the transistor.
I replaced the trigger buttons with the LB AND RB so i do custom button config and any fighting game works fine
100% positive, checked again and again after it didn’t work. I’ll try flipping it around on the off chance that the diode I got was just marked backwards…
Edit-Switched diode doesn’t fix it for the 360. It’s a zener diode, but it’s 30V and even if it was allowing current in the opposite direction that would only mess up the cthulhu correct?
Posting again to mark the thread as unread…
With the diode in either direction, the 360 doesn’t recognize the button press associated with the trigger, I remove the diode and it goes back to working fine.
edit- Replaced the zener with a regular silicon and all is well…still not quite sure why the zener didn’t work.
Thank to toodles his diagram was the one i use to git it working
edit to remove pic
Never mind an hour more of doing it i got it.
Does the wattage on the resistors matter for this hack? About to put an order in for various supplies at digi.
nope.
The power dissipated by the controller is so insignificant, I would go for 1/8 or 1/4 watt resisters to save some money (lower wattage is usually cheaper).
Simple(!?) trigger fix
I have a 2008 #4716 Mad Catz wired controller. I’ve connected up my triggers by connecting the button signal to the middle pin, leaving the trigger pots in place (as described in previous posts). I thought this would be easier than the hack using the npn transistor/resistors etc, and as I’m not using multiple pcb’s or adding led’s I don’t need anything more complex.
However, now the problem is that I can get only one to work at a time, not both at the same time. If I try to neutralise both triggers at the same time the pad ‘resets’. Do they need to have separate grounds? At the moment I only have one common for the whole pad.
Hope this makes sense. Any help would be much appreciated.
Edit: Ignore this. Decided to ‘man-up’, get a transistor and some resistors and do it properly!
Hey guys, if I’m looking to have dual pcb’s using a madcatz arcade stick w/ hacked triggers (zombie cpt method) and a knock off sega saturn ebay special, would I have to use any transistors or diodes between them? Both pcb’s should be common ground and 5v power.
Will the hacked madcatz triggers cause a problem with the other pcb? I want the madcatz triggers to perform the same function as the saturn’s L&R bumpers.
I also want to look into both pcb’s sharing a usb cable but that discussion belongs in another thread! Thanks fellas
Use the IC inverter method for dual PCB mods. The transistor method will need additional diodes to prevent leakage to the other PCB.
Hi guys. Just tried hacking the triggers on a late model (2008) Mad Catz controller and run into a problem.
I originally had all digital buttons hooked up and working correctly, but hadn’t got the triggers done. Like I say, this was all working fine, so I tried to fix the triggers as per Toodles npn transistor and two 5-10k resistors (post #4). After trying this, not only do the triggers not work, but the whole board seems to not be getting any power and is not working at all.
The guide LED’s are not lighting up, and none of the buttons are working, so I’ve tried taking off the whole transistor/resistor assembly to see if that’s causing the trouble, but this doesn’t fix it. It still doesn’t work at all.
Does it sound like I’ve fried the board, or can anyone think of another reason for this happening?
Don’t really want to buy a new controller…
I hate asking a question without answering the previous one in this thread (and if I had an answer, Beady, you’d get it from me), but I hit a snag and I hope it’s not big.
If the three pins on the pot are high, wiper, and ground, can I use VCC instead of the high pin? I accidentally pulled up the solder pad for it when I was trying to take off the plastic bits.
In almost all cases, yes. But, what I’d do in your spot is find the High pin on one of the analog stick pot’s and use that.
Great. Thanks!
Ok, let’s look at this from a different angle. If I had all buttons working, except the triggers, with the analog trigger pots still attached, then removed the pots, would we expect the buttons to stop working? Would I need to neutralize the trigger connections with a resistor before the other buttons would work again?
If so, this would isolate my problem to the npn/transistor assembly I’d attached. Any sort of response would be appreciated guys. Could really use the help.
Just to clear things up:
Mad Catz 4716 2007 model: 10k resistor between signal (wiper or middle pad) and high (5v, 3v, Vcc, whatever). The arcade button then takes a line from the signal and the other end goes to ground right? So when the button is pressed it inputs low to the signal/wiper pad correct?
Mad Catz 4716 2008 model: needs transistor hack
Is this correct?