Hey everyone!
Can any of you guys please tell me if the Hayabusa Joystick will fit inside of my Madcatz SFV Shadoloo TES+ ? I want to swap my Sanwa JFL with Hori’s (Don’t get me wrong, I think Sanwa is great but I’ve been itching to try the Hayabusa lever for a while due to it’s positive feedback). If it doesn’t fit, what modding will I have to go trough in order to do so? I have been hitting my head against the wall with this one and haven’t found anything on the internet.
Thanks!
Welcome to SRK.
Ask small questions here instead of making new threads.
The Madcatz SFV Shadoloo TES+ is still a very new stick, so you not get many specific examples of exact mods.
So if you are searching for straight up how to install a Hori Hayabusa into a Madcatz SFV Shadoloo TES+ you might not find anything.
If you are willing to broaden your search parameters for other Hayabusa installations or what other people did with pass Mad Catz Joysticks you get a good general idea of what needs to be done.
So do not panic.
Alot of this is industry standard fittings and sizes.
What I know does work.
Referring to the older TE Round 1 and Round 2 and the older TE-S, the Hayabusa joystick installs just fine without any modification.
Also people had no issues with the Mad Catz TE2 as well as the Mad catz Brawl/TVC/SE stick body.
That Haybusa mounting plate will fit into almost any mount that would accommodate a Sanwa JLF. And so far most Madcatz joysticks has been very, very accommodating to all sorts of joysticks and not just the JLF.
The past Mad Catz controllers will accommodate without any mods Most Sanwa and Seimitsu joysticks and Korean joysticks designed with Japanese mounts in mind.
I fit into the older TE-S before a Hori Hayabusa and the even larger Sanwa JLW. I am willing to bet it be the same way with the new TES+
The only thing that really changed is the location and size of the Guide area (the section where the home/guide/PS button is located).
I don’t see any reason why Mad Catz would change up the screw holes or mount pattern of their joystick mounts now.
The Hori Hayabusa joystick is not that much larger than a Sanwa JLF before the panel, and it uses the same screw holes, uses the same footprint on the panel.
Both joysticks also accept the same wiring harness. As the 5 pin harness is sort of universal as 3 brands of joystick all use the same pinout.
The only difference is with Seimitsu joysticks that you flip the adapter plug upside down.
I would before you remove the wire harness from the joystick to make a mark with a black magic marker to see which way it goes back on.
I also take note on which direction the pin connector of that joystick is facing so you can install your Hayabusa joystick the same way.
What you need to do is unbolt the top panel, Remove the ball top, unplug the wire harness from the JLF and undo the screws.
Once you remove the JLF place in the Hayabusa with the 5 pin connector facing the same direction, put those screws back into place, place the wireharness back into place and screw in your ball top.
You can use the slot on the bottom of the joystick lever to hold the lever still in order to tighten and losen the joystick.
The TE-S+ should have the same exact shell as the TE/TE-S so the inside I’m guessing would be the same If so then you might need to cut 1-2 plastic pegs that are in the way of the Hayabusa’s housing at the worse. Should look like those 1-2 black plastic things on the left side sticking out that normally gets in the way.
I forgot about those two posts.
And cutting out those 2 post off are easy, you can snap them off with a good pair of pliers.
They don’t do anything than offer a means to snake wiring though them.
Like they are not structural or anything.
I have a question, how do I replace the option and share button on my TES?
Same as any other button. Disconnect the wires, pop the buttons out, put new buttons in, re connect wires.
Had anyone tried to see if a Seimitsu stick (LS-40) works on the TES+? I’m noticing two problems where the bottom end of the stick’s plate may touch the PCB… and the top part of the shaft is touching the gray tube (near the black screw) of the home plate with PS Button and L3/R3 buttons.
Tried it. The signal point for the “Right” microswitch touches the base PCB for the TES+. Happened to me when I installed an LS-40 in my cousin’s TES+.
Solution? Dremel. I ground down the bottom of the solder point; it’s still plenty connected and it doesn’t touch the TES+ PCB anymore (I put a bit of electrical tape anyways on that area on the TES+ PCB, just for good measure).
Do you have pictures for this? Also, did you had to get an SS Mounting Plate replacement for mounting plate reduction (https://www.focusattack.com/seimitsu-ss-mounting-plate-for-ls-32-ls-38-ls-40/)?
Sorry, didn’t grab any pics at the time.
And yes, mounting an LS-32 or LS-40 onto a Mad Catz casing will need the SS mounting plate. Keep in mind that you’ll have to mount the mounting plate horizontally (as opposed to the “vertical” orientation of a JLF mount).
I see, thanks for clarifying that.
So, using the dremel, are you just moving the base PCB of the TES+ lower (or to the left) of it’s original location so it can give more room for the LS-40-01’s microswitch PCB tip?
No no.
I dremeled off and thinned out the contact pins on the LS-40-01 PCB so that they don’t touch the Mad Catz PCB.
One set of these (whichever the offending pair was):
I did something similar to a LS-40 with a pair of side cutters
No, there should not be any other modifications needed if you’re doing this properly.
I’m not certain how would it fit then otherwise. That screw on the bottom right that’s grounded is preventing the plate to be accurately placed down.
(EDIT: The pins that connect to the PCB aren’t set right [should be on the left side]… but regardless, the result would be the same. The plate would still be misaligned as it’s touching the screw that’s applied with the grounded wire.)
Progress: Moved the ground wire, and setting it up works.
Tried to place it back (even with clipping out the pins from the right microswitch that’s hitting the PCB)… turns out it wasn’t short enough and it even made the left input conceivably inputted at all times. Removing the stick panel removed that problem though, so it tells me it’s affecting the PCB internally and would require shorter pins.
Question. Is sandpaper a good alternate to shorten the pins?
Good to see you made some progress.
You can use sandpaper, but a) you risk grinding some stuff around the pin, and b) a Dremel (or other rotary tool) is much faster.
Grinding stuff around the pin? How short does it need to be cut down to?
Currently, this is how short I have it atm from using clippers (can compare with the pins on the left):