Anytime Phoenix Reborn! Believe me, it’s a great stick after you get used to the feel and break it in. On top of that, it’s also a great stick for SHMUPs as well as fighting games since it’s built off of the LS-32, which in my opinion is the hands down greatest SHMUP stick ever made.
No worries jdm714, you’re normal, at least compared to me. I’ve got really small, tiny girl hands myself. My neighbor, who’s 11 years old, has hands the same size as mine, who is 17. For that matter she’s also a lot shorter than I am so it makes me feel bad sometimes. :crybaby:
Wineglass style really does contribute more to my knucklebusting than anything else. When I grip the ball-top, I actually angle my hand just a little bit so part of the side of my wrist and the majority of the back of my hand is touching the control panel. If the shaft height is a little larger, I get a little more room to angle my hand which makes it a lot more comfortable for me. I have a friend who’s got a custom stick which has a Sanwa JLF mounted about 2 millimeters below specifications and it feels RIDICULOUSLY uncomfortable to play on. :wasted:
Well, the more I know the better right? Never hurts to know some additional facts about the sticks that I’m using. After all, that’s what the Tech Talk forum is for.
Anyway, I took a ruler to the LS-36 and snapped a pic for you to look at JDM. For reference, I also included a measurement of the LS-56 shaft length as it appears on my HRAP3. The photo-job isn’t exactly the best, I apologize, but I tried to line the ruler up to the joystick shaft the best I could. Check em’ out.
Either I completely screwed up when I swapped the joystick for the HRAP3, or I completely screwed up on the LS-36 mod during one of the steps. I just tested the LS-36 out in Training Mode and there doesn’t seem to be any abnormalities as far as stick stability and performance is concerned, so I guess as long as it works then it’s gung-ho for me.
Great project! I have no experience with LS-32 yet, i just own a LS-40 and btw i have a noob question; once is possible to fit the ls-40 yellow sub guide on ls-32 and vice-versa, could i fit a ls-32 sub guide round (picture) on my ls-40?
I’m just curious if the sub guide round makes an effective difference or not.
I’m in the market for a new joystick and this thread summaries why I don’t like the LS32-01. Here’s a simple question: why not get the LS40 in the first place?
@Phoenix Reborn - okay…so I’m not the only to notice the shaft height difference. When I mounted my LS-40-01 in my Paewang without the mounting plate the shaft height is taller than the mounted LS-32 in my HRAP EX-SE, unless the mounting plate and the panel on the EX-SE is thick enough to make the difference.
@vash - I wonder the same. I guess it’s also preference and getting used to it. The LS-40 does have the shortest engage and throw of all the Japanese sticks (at least according to the table in slagcoin). Also, with the LS-40 you are stuck with a square gate.
I do wonder though if you can put the bottom metal plate of the LS-32 on the LS-40 to be able to use the LS-32 gates. Picture say yes you can, but I dunno.
Really? Maybe I read the slagcoin table wrong, but it shows that the LS-40 engage and throw are short while the LS-56 is medium for both.
Maybe the spring in the LS-56 gives it a feel of shorter throw and engage than the LS-40? I’ve only played around with the LS-40 and LS-32 so far. I will try out a LS-56 in the near future though.
No, man…you read right, slagcoin shows the LS-40 is the shortest, but it’s a wrong information.
The LS-56 spring is very stiff, but is not the spring that causes the tight feel, this joystick is really tight and super sensitive. Some people love LS-56 with octagonal, i like the joystick too but, i think my english not good enough to explain exactly what i want so here is a example: if “you” don’t like the LS-40 because is too sensitive for your taste and you used to jump accidentally sometimes while you’re walking in a fighting game, let me tell you on the LS-56 this will happend even more times. (you = just a example)
Believe me, the LS-56 is much more sensitive and tight than LS-40.
IMO LS-40 is a great well balanced joystick, also great pivot smoothness. My fav joystick since i have no problems in square gates.
The engage spacement is given by the PCB actually. If this mod uses the main LS-32 PCB, then we have the same engage as original LS-32. The LS-40 and LS-32 actuators has different shaft hole size, but the size of the part that reach the micros are the same in both 2 actuactors.
This mod fix the pivot problem and allow you to use shaft cover. Except that, you’re playing on LS-32 with LS-32 engage…not LS-40. =)
Ikagi-Chan…have you tried put ls-40 PCB on ls-32 base? I know that the main concept is fix the pivot problem, but actually i’m using this method. Since my old ls-40 is not so smooth right now, i own the ls-32 which the base is originally lubricated and still feels smooth like new. I really did like the result, the ls-40 engagements is perfect for me.
The ls-40 PCB fits perfectly on ls-32 base. You can do this by using ls-32 screws to fit the ls-40 restrictor by alternative holes of the restrictor and the base. (my english is not good but i mean you won’t be able to use the original screw holes of ls-40 restrictor but the other holes allows you to fit it perfectly). So you can fit the yellow sub-gate with no effort.
Well, works great for me since i have no problems with the pivot, it feels very smooth and i have the ls-40 engagement which i love. This mod is perfectly possible with no effort att all and the joystick plays great! I would say is a flawless joystick with perfect engage but the pivot make it almost perfect. I am 99% sure the opposite mod is not possible. I’m glad to experience that and provided some tips.
