Hey guys, just in a bit of a dilemma. I want to put a ls-32 (not ls-32-01) that I got from a friend into a Hori ex2. I took a look at the doa4 stick modding faq, but I don’t have a ls-32-01 with a pcb. Do I need some quick disconnects or something or other to pull off the installation?
thanks a lot, any help would be appreciated.
no you do not need QDs. you technically dont need QDs for anything they are just to make things easier if you want to change stuff later.
some of the below might be wrong but i dont think so
joysticks have 2 prongs on each of 4 microswitch - a direction/signal (“voltage high”) and a ground (“voltage low”). the pcb in the ls3201 basically connects all the grounds together and arranges all the signals and ground in a 5 pin wiring harness (4 directions, 1 ground) to make it easier to wire up your joystick to a COMMON GROUND pcb. that is NOT what you have in the hori ex2.
in the doa4 modding guide it has you break the traces on the pcb (its a sanwa jlf in the guide but the pcb is there for the same reason) because you do not want all the grounds connected together since the hori ex2/doa4 pcb is NOT common ground. since your ls32 does not have a pcb, you can safely ignore this step.
each joystick direction corresponds to 2 wires on the pcb, a direction/signal wire and a ground wire. youre going to want to connect the signal wire to the signal prong on the correct microswitch (so for example “joystick right” on the pcb connects to whichever microswitch activates when you move the stick right) and the ground wire to the ground prong.
this is all assuming, of course, that you found a way to actually mount the joystick correctly in the case. if you havent yet, i hope you like dremeling.
I have an LS-32 in my EX2 and it required ALL of the plastic where the hoystick goes to be dremeled out. Take it all out and then screw through the top plate into the LS-32 plate. The shaft is to long so you have to take care of that. The Hori shaft just didn’t feel right in the stick so I kept the original shaft, just filed the bottom of it down as much as possible and then used a hammer to beat a pit into the bottom of the stick. You can drill a hole but I didn’t want that there and a hammer is easier to use.
Thanks a lot for the assist, guys.
Looks like it’s time to either invest in a dremel tool or rip the guts out of the stick and make a new case :wgrin:
I thought the shaft would fit fine since you’re bypassing all of that plastic. That’s interesting…
The Seimitsu shaft is just barely long enough to scratch the bottom plate. You could probably get away with not doing anything as it would wear itself in over time but the scratching sound is really damn annoying. You’re barely looking at a couple millimeters of space a most.
I got around this by putting nuts over the screws used to hold the bottom plate together. The nuts acted as a spacer that left enough room to leave the stick in without having to do any grinding of the shaft or pounding of the plate. Like you said its only mm and this fix is not even noticible.