Loose/Solid Arcade Stick!

Hey people,

I have MayFlash V2 fight stick for a couple of months now and quite happy with it.
I also checked before Razer and Qanwa arcade sticks and all of them’s joysticks are a bit loose for me after all those years played on arcade machines.
Some of you guys may know what I mean usually on arcade machines have more solid joysticks.

So do you know any model of joystick which is more solid or how may I make more solid my current one?

(Sorry for my english if I use wrong words to explain my point by “solid” and “loose”.)
Loose= Between left click and right click of the stick distance is longer (or between up and down).
Solid= Between left click and right click of the stick distance is shorter (or between up and down).

Thank you guys.

Joysticks are going to loosen up with time and ware regardless they are in a controller or the arcades.
Only reason your arcade joystick seems solid is because regular maintenance is done to keep that machine in working order.
All the arcades I been too, most of the machines including the American style cabs the joysticks tend to be on the loose side.

The Razer and Qanba controllers all use the same Sanwa JLF joystick.

You want the joystick to remain tighter for longer, you going to have to replace that spring. Preferably a tighter/heavier spring.

@Darksakul My understanding of the OP’s issue is less of “tightness” and “looseness”, but rather about throw and engage, since he talks about “distance between left and right clicks of the joystick”.

@muzorty Read this page on the slagcoin: http://slagcoin.com/joystick/attributes_brands.html
It should have the information you’re looking for.
Sounds like you’re looking for a stick with a very small throw and very small engage. You can either try to find a stick that’s like that in stock-form, or buy a standard stick, and replace components (restrictor gate, spring, actuator, switches) to fine tune it to the way you like it.

Thank you guys

I also dislike long throw joysticks like the Sanwa JLF, and so far I’ve really liked the Seimitsu LS-32 I have installed right now. Most Seimitsu sticks have a shorter throw than Sanwa sticks, so I would suggest looking into them.

LONG THROW?!?! The throw isn’t long enough. I hit too many false diagonals. I’m willing to sacrifice a few milliframes of time for significantly higher percentage accuracy.

I have a Sanwa something, (the one used in the Mad Catz premium SF4 Xbox 360 fight stick. Not sure if exact model.) I hit too many false diagonals when going for cardinals.

And the Sanwa bat top… You call that a bar top? A Wico Bat Top. Now that, that’s a bat top.

Do you know what people mean when they say throw in respects to a joystick?
Throw is how far you need to move to make or change a input on a joystick lever.

It’s a Sanwa JLF, there some variants depending on what mount plate, dust washer and shaft cover it’s shipped with.


Here a chart, it does not include any optical or silent models.

My advice for Square Gate joysticks, treat the joystick almost like a manual transmission shifter.
You want to move in L Shape movements, like a Knight in Chess. I hate to say it as I usually don’t like theses gates, but consider a circle gate or octagonal gate. Square, circle and octagonal all have their up and down sides.

Yes I am aware of throw it’s the distance it takes between center and when it first gets activated.

the problem is that if the throws are too short, ( and ideally vertical and horizontal throws are equal,) for the Cardinals, then you may be accidentally actuatung diagonals when you intend to actuate Cardinals.

in that sense, a longer throw means you have to make a more deliberate diagonal to actuate a diagonal.

That’s exactly why they make manual transmission stick shifts big and have long throws, so that’s slight left and right movements don’t throw off your transmission.

I agree. stick shifters does describe my joystick maneuvering style, even though I never drove shift except in video games.

If you have a circle or an octagon, then the diagonals will actuation space is too little and you might float over it with too much of a circle, and the move from a down to down-right is too similar to going from down to right
About a 15 degrees difference, vs a 45 degree difference.

But not a “hard angle” square (and diamond for 4 way games) maybe, if such a thing exists, a “rounded square”, at the right curve to do a fireball yet feel the corner. And then turning it to a diamond makes diagonals impossible on games which break code when diagonals are pressed (5200 Popeye, Qix, and Mountain King, arcade Mr Do’s Castle, etc.)

As I said by best Street Fighter game with Street Fighter 2 versions what I had my right-handed fightstick in that stick shift mode.

Everyone has a reason of why they do what they do. I explain mine and hope others understand from my perspective. but I Don’t Force It down anyone’s throat despite what certain people say.

the only reason I was kind of pushy about Sinister six was because for the people beat someone who became a television champion besides me. Strength in numbers.