Im finding the distance I need to move the stick to dash and korean backdash is way too big. Sometimes Im pressing forward/back again before the stick has gone back to neutral and it causes me to fail my dash.
I heard the Seimetsu 56-01 stick had a very short throw distance o was considering this but some people are even saying its TOO twitchy. So Im looking for reccomendations.
Currently playing Akuma on tekken 7. Have about 80-100 hours of total play time since getting this stick.
“Too twitchy” is subjective, you can get used to it like you would a mouse set to high sensitivity. The LS-40 is another short throw tight engage option that is a little less tight on the engage zone than the 56, but way tighter than a JLF. Just note that if you get a 40 you’ll want an s plate for proper mounting height. Personally, the 56 is my favorite.
LS-56 for shmups. LS-40 for everything else.
Else get another stick that supports Korean levers. Add to your collection!
Etokki Omni is pretty sweet…or go DIY with a Panzer 3 Korean ed.
JUST PLEASE DO NOT START DRILLING A LARGE HOLE IN YOUR TE2+
Or do it, TE2 isn’t a great stick and it is way over price, even the MSRP is too much
[quote=“Darksakul, post:4, topic:183254”]
Or do it, TE2 isn’t a great stick and it is way over price, even the MSRP is too much[/quot
The TE2 is amazing…and definitely worth MRSP and even markup…HOW DARE YOU!
Unless you are getting this TE2 for less than $100 I say skip it.
it isn’t worth the hassle with some of the bad case design and difficulty modding.
You could try using the Kowal 1mm oversize actuator for your Sanwa JLF. Simple, inexpensive, and not invasive. It would shorten the throw just a bit, perhaps to a degree that you’d prefer.
If you ask me don’t waste your money
Forget Kowal. THIS is all you need to shorten actuation distance. The thing’s Delrin…it will outlast the JLF pivot.
Else be a man and get a Seimitsu stick 
My problem with the Kowal actuator is the materials, until recently the Kowal was ABS plastic, its now a slightly better material Nylon.
But over all the design shape is all wrong. Kowal is just going to grind and make alot of plastic dust which requires your stick to need more regular maintenance (if not repair and replacements).
IF that dust gets into the switch the switch is done unless you got the know how to take the switch apart and clean and relube it.
Delrin is the best material for actuators, it’s “self-lubricating” and wear resistant.
Then again my advice is sell the TE2 and get your self a stick with a better body/case.
Hey guys thanks for all the advice. I ended up buying an ls-56-01. After installation and some play I have to say it hasn’t really met expectations.
Biggest issue is that there is about 2mm of slack in the stick before it makes contact with ant of the microswitch levers. Unlike my sanwa where there is next to no space.
Makes the stick be able to wobble around without really doing anything.
That one isn’t going to cut the throw like the kowal. Unless they have been changed, the part of the actuator that makes contact with the gate isn’t any larger, whereas it is on the kowal. I still recommend a Seimitsu first, but the kowal actuator does tighten up the jlf throw/actuation significantly. And the reason it’s designed different than the bell shape on the lower section is because a 1mm larger bell doesn’t reliably release the stock jlf switches when returning to neutral, as many people here have complained.
this would explain why my expermential JLF with a namco acutator has problems returning to neutral lol. but ill probably throw in a kowal with e switches.