(little help) rebuilding arcade stick to stickless

Hi guys, recently bought hori mini to try and play tekken with and since I’ve never played with a stick i went with a really cheap one and I’m glad I did that because I really don’t like the feel of a stick. I play on a pc and I love to play with a keyboard but I would also like to play some offline ps4 tournaments so I decided to get a stickless arcade controller. To me the easiest solution would be rebuilding this hori mini to a stickless, I dont mind that is small and has shitty buttons if it would work it would be a great solution for me. Now where the help comes in, I took the back of the hori mini and the insides seem pretty self explanatory, looks like I just buy 4 small buttons, drill holes for them and then plug them instead of the joystick ( like on the picture ) https://i.imgur.com/B10RHSN.jpg , now like I said I’ve never done anything like this so I’m not sure if I’m just dreaming but it seems pretty easy, is there anything I’m missing ? Also is there a way to find out if this stick has the SOCD cleaner, not sure if arcade sticks have that by default. Thanks for any tips guys.

You’ll either need a pcb with SOCD cleaning, or you’ll need to add it manually, which is not a beginner task. Also, I’m skeptical of how well the Hori mini is going to facilitate the project, it is a pretty small stick.

the buttons would fit inside and out but if the pcb doesn’t have a SOCD clearing than it’s a no go but I though most of the new stick already have it.

No, that’s basically just certain aftermarket pcbs.

You’ll need a brook PCB which all come with SOCD cleaners onboard. If you don’t have that, you’ll be missing out on the best part about Hitbox. You may want to go ahead and build your own case out of wood though instead of using that small stick.

Don’t use the mini. Building or buying a custom case and using a different PCB is an infinitely better method than trying to mod that toy.

I woudn’t use the Hori Mini for anything
Not even a loaner stick for guess

Damn this thread turned into hori mini hate even though I explicitly said I don’t care that it’s small and has a shitty buttons. That aside on the pc if you press up and down simultaneously it automatically registers as neutral so is there REALLY a need for SOCD cleaner if the only game I’ll ever play is tekken ? Other then the SOCD cleaner what is the difference between the brook PCB and the hori PSB? Seems like a waste to spend almost 50 bucks and have to solder etc. thats exactly what I was trying to avoid ( spending a lot more money and having a lot more work).

You need to check for L+R=N as well, not just U+D=N.

With that being said, the mini simply may not suitable for what you want to accomplish. Even if you use 24mm buttons, they may not fit onto the control panel in a proper hitbox layout or even WASD layout.

Spending more money (you get what you pay for) is ultimately less work than what you’re trying to do, and you may not even have to solder depending on which route you go.

Just my $0.02. Multiple users have told you that you may want to try something else, but if you’re that insistent then good luck to you.

multiple people told me not to do it but listed no reasons other then the size, which i measured obviously if it didn’t physically fit I wouldn’t bother, the other reason was the SOCD cleaner which I was asking about if it really is necessary in tekken 7 and to answer your question yes, it works the same left+right as up+down, i tried it with a ps3 pad + hori mini + keyboard, any combination of opposite directions always ends up as neutral so that’s why I asked if there is any difference of the hori PSB and other PSBs that would make me have to buy a new one. I’m not insisting on anything just making sure, if the SOCD cleaner isn’t necessary in tekken I really don’t see any reason to invest in a new PSB, if there is a reason I would love to hear it so I don’t waste my time rebuilding the mini but so far I haven’t heard any concrete reason, you and 2 other users said I shouldn’t do it but didn’t say why. I’m not trying to come of as douche I’m just making sure, 50 dollars for a new PSB just for the SOCD cleaner that might not even be necessary is not something I can afford right now. So I’m just making sure.

Arcade controllers are a Premium item, and the cost of entry into the FGC scene is high.
Especially when you want to get into customs and niche controller schemes like the hit box.
Welcome to the FGC.

that doesnt answer any of my questions obviously you don’t know anything of what im asking

You don’t need to replace your PCB entirely for SOCD cleaning, people have made standalone mini-PCB that connect between your buttons and the main PCB to “add” SOCD cleaning. Unfortunately I can’t help you much after that since I don’t use Hitbox, SOCD cleaning has never been something I need to focus on. But as I recall, the schematic wasn’t very complicated. You should look into that instead.

But maybe Tekken already has the proper SOCD behavior? I don’t know what the “standard accepted” SOCD outcome is supposed to be.

yes on pc tekken is handling socd just fine and I’m sure it’s the same on ps4, that will save me a lot money on the PCB, Thanks

seems like socd clearing is not necessary

it’s only really necessary if you are taking that controller to tournaments and to a lesser extent Online matches or local multiplayer.
Single player or practice mode, no one will care about it.

Also it depends on the game, some game engines/code has it’s own SOCD filtering, some are very exploitable.

SOCD cleaning is a anti-cheat device, used to prevent two opposite directions being used at the same moment for the purposes of taking unfair advantage.
A SOCD cheat could be done with a Dual Shock PlayStation game pad, example hitting right on the D-pad but left on the analog stick is a prime example how it can work.

Example vanilla MVC3 is where SOCD exploits are the worst. U MvC3 fixed most of the SOCD issues with a minor internal directions filter. Ether Left and Right/ Up and Down at the same time cancels out or one direction always take priority.

If you ever want to play competitively SOCD is needed for a Hit Box like controller.

yeah and since I’ll only be playing tekken 7 and that is one of those games that already has its own SOCD filtering it’s not necessary for my controller, thanks a lot :slight_smile:

If you want to be able to do SOCD Korean backdash, which keeps you blocking for more frames than standard Korean backdash, you’ll need a SOCD cleaner.

Hey guys, after much consideration I decided to make my own hitbox using Brook PS3/PS4 Fight Board now what im going to order is:
pre installed Brook PS3/PS4 Fight Board ( https://www.focusattack.com/ist-pre-installed-brook-ps3-ps4-fight-board-pcb-kit/ )
24mm Sanwa buttons ( https://www.focusattack.com/sanwa-obsf-24mm-pushbutton-dark-red/ )
one 30mm Sawna button for up button ( https://www.focusattack.com/black-rim-sanwa-obsf-30mm-pushbutton-dark-red-black/ )
the only problem I have is that the pre installed PCB comes with a Alternative 11-inch, 5-pin harness with .187" (4.75mm) terminals to connect the direction buttons, but that wouldn’t allow me to use the 24mm sanwa buttons because they have .110 quick connects, what is the best solution to this ? I was thinking of ordering a few .110 quick disconnects ( https://www.focusattack.com/philmore-110-non-insulated-quick-disconnect-terminal/ ) and switching them for the .187s on the alternative 5-pin harness, I assume that wouldn’t be a problem right ? they would fit on the slightly larger cable ? Thanks in advance.

You can cut the wire just before the .187 terminal and put your 110 quick disconect instead. It’ll work and you won’t even need to solder them if you crimp them properly ( http://www.instructables.com/id/Arcade-Stick-Daisy-Chain-Wiring/ follow the crimping part only. Since your quick disconnect don’t have any plastic part arround them, you can use a flat tweezer)