Good point Toodles. With the way I have things set up I just bent the leads so they joined and touched a little solder to the joint. I have two at home right now that are single chip boards with the resistors in place. I’ll take a pic of them tonight.
About the inputs that is the leg that takes the pad and button connections right?
TTFN
Kaytrim
Kaytrim for that guide that you made i noticed that you didn’t use an external power source. Does the 3.3v from the psx controller provide enough juice for the leds to work?
Yup, or at least the legs that would have had the pad and button connection. Those that go to a button are just fine, leave 'em as is, but those input pins that aren’t being used used be connected directly to ground. The matching output pins where the LEDs would go can be left alone unconnected (in fact, definitely leave them unconnected. DO NOT CONNECT THEM TO GROUND).
Nice work there Kaytrim =)
Quick question though, does the stick work on DC with a PS2 -> DC converter? If so, does it work with multiple button presses (2-3) + direction?
I am using a PS to PC USB adapter. I checked the voltage on the pad and it is between 3 and 4 volts. So to answer you question I believe that what you see in the video is what you will see in real life.
This I don’t know because I don’t have the converter you mention.
Toodles, thanks for the clarification on the ground connections. I figured that it would only be the unused input legs of the chip.
TTFN
Kaytrim
I posted two pics in my tutorial. One of the top and one of the bottom of the same board. I hope that helps explain how to use this stuff. :china:
TTFN
Kaytrim
Ok so I know you’ve seen this mod. So how do I bore that hole in the joystick shaft or who should I take it to?
Thanks for this thread. Tons of Fun.
The best tool to use is a metal lathe. Or if you want I can drill out one for you.
TTFN
Kaytrim
That guide totally downplays how hard it is to get that shaft drilled. It took a week and a half, a dozen places / people (including my university IT Dept), and $35 before I got mine drilled.
I figured that living in a pretty industrial area with all the people I know in construction / factories that it would be a sinch to get it done, but it was anything but. The work required is very precise and a lot of places are either unable or unwilling to do it (one place wanted to charge me $90 to get it done :wtf:). If you know someone or someplace right off that can do it, then by all means. But if you don’t, it can turn into a complete headache. :wasted:
PS: Man, I wish I knew before that you could’ve done it, Kaytrim: it would’ve saved me all kinds of trouble.
Doesn’t some guy at BYOAC sell pre-drilled shafts?
That would be Franco B. He taught me how to do mine on my lathe. Just hang tight guys they will be available down the road.
Kaytrim
Drilled sanwa shafts
Sweet. Thanks Kaytrim for the offer… I may just take you up on that.
Weird Hex Inverter
I picked up 4 inverters from Frys, and one of the 7040s had 16 pins instead of 14. I figured I just picked up the wrong chip, but the number matched the package and the diagram on the package had 14 pins. Does that type of thing happen a lot?
You need a 7404 hex inverter. Dunno what a 7040 is =P
oops
I meant to type 04… I’m using a 7404 and two 7414s. But one of the extra 7404s I picked up had 16 pins. Crazy.
I guess they put the wrong chip in the box.
The 7404 chip can source about 3 mA at high output, and sink about 12 mA on low ouput.
Some of the coding means,
74HCxx , high speed cmos (these runs decent at 3.5v)
74Lxx , low power (including LS, ALS which are to be avoided)
74ASxx , this is a good one
7404, standard (pretty good actually)
74F , fast(so high power)
If you’re willing, run the signal into one inverter, then cascade into a second inverter gate. Now you wire the led as follows:
from positive battery terminal(or power adapter) to positive of LED, negative of LED to resistor, other end of resistor to the inverter output.
This way you don’t use a transistor.
Realistically, the single inverter gate output(3 mA) is enough to run red and glue high intensity LEDs. If you want green, then you gotta get fancy and be patient.
p.s. 54xx04 is military spec.
Source/sink depends on the family. The HC or HCT should source 25mA : http://www.nxp.com/acrobat_download/datasheets/74HC_HCT04_3.pdf
I’m trying to figure out why this doesn’t work.
I’m trying to make it so that if the cable is plugged is, Q1 (a 2n2222 transistor) is saturated so the ground lines from the LEDs and inverter have a path to the negative terminal of the batteries. Not plugged in, so saturation, and no path to ground. TingBoy tried it and it didn’t work. Any ideas?
The circuit needs to be re-worked almost entirely. Or try a PNP transistor, 2n3906, real quick.
more to come.
p.s. don’t use transistors on the gnd side.