Light-up on activation button mod tutorial

Hey Toodles, what chip would you recommend for a 8 button layout? And what would you use for 11 buttons, 8 plus start, select, home? Finally what about 15, 11 plus one for each joystick direction? I am assuming that there would be a series of chips that have more gates in them.

Thanks,
Kaytrim

If you’re comfortable using the base 74 04 or 7414 inverters, you should probably stick to those; you can use as many as you like, one chip for every 6 LEDs.

But, if you want to dig in get more comfortable playing with the electronics, there a tons of chips to try, but I don’t think you’re going to find any chips with more than 8 inverters per; that’d be 16 pins just for the I/O.

Sounds good to me. I’ll stick with the 7414 chips I have on hand then.

IMHO, the schematics on the first page should be more than enough help. The only photos I could really take at this point would be the Hex inverter all wired up and my messy wiring underneath the control panel. Which part is confusing you?

I’ll be wiring up a few of these in the next few weeks. I’ll do a step by step for you.:wgrin:

TTFN
Kaytrim

Thanks Kaytrim =). I’ll add it to the first post as soon as they’re up :tup:.

Pictures of the hex inverter and everything it’s connected to would help.
I have trouble visualizing schematics.

Thank you Kaytrim :woot:

I’ll take a picture tomorrow. I don’t have my camera with me. I’m warning you now though, it ain’t pretty inside my HRAP2 =\

where’s the pic?

Keep in mind that I wasn’t really trying to make this mod clean. I just wanted to make it work with what I had, so brace yourself for some scary pictures =P

http://inlinethumb13.webshots.com/11020/2167023650084014115S600x600Q85.jpg

Back of my HRAP2 where I put my switch and battery pack.

http://inlinethumb55.webshots.com/12470/2166181980084014115S600x600Q85.jpg

Messy messy wiring. Lots of makeshift fixes =)

http://inlinethumb01.webshots.com/29760/2140488300084014115S600x600Q85.jpg

The barrier strip I used to wire up the ends of the LEDs to the 1 ground pin on the inverter.

http://inlinethumb55.webshots.com/30518/2259304770084014115S600x600Q85.jpg

LEDs + resistors sticking out of my buttons.

http://inlinethumb09.webshots.com/1096/2371966790084014115S600x600Q85.jpg

The hex inverter. Terrible soldering on my part. I just got frustrated trying to solder to such small pins.

I should probably make this mod less gruesome one of these days. =P

What does the last pic refer to ? The hex inverter ?

Ahh, yes, forgot to add that. Yea, that’s the hex inverter.

Good God man my eyes are burning from them pics lol. Hey good job none the less I just ordered some green Seimitsu buttons so I’ll be trying to do it with my custom. I don’t know if everything will fit but this is what the case looks like.

http://joystickvault.com/data/500/ProtoStickWithButtons1.jpg

Hopefully I could put all of the wiring, the hex inverter, and the pcb. This mod really intrigues me lol.

THANKS tingboy. this helps me out alot…

Next time use a piece of perfboard. I have one here ready for soldering. The back side has copper pads around each hole. I’ll be putting the resistors for the LEDs on here as well. As you can see I also have room for a mounting screw.

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee314/KaytrimsKustoms/Electronics/Perfboard.png

TTFN
Kaytrim

Yea, I saw those at my local electronics shop after I finished my mod. Ahhh well, I’ll go pick some up when I have the time =P

I have a few hex inverters lying around. I can put together these light up kits for anyone that would want one.
It would include:
-hex inverter
-breadboard
-6 resistors
-6 white LED’s
-battery pack
-toggle swith
-barrier strip

The inverter and resistors will come pre assembled. Only thing left to do is wire up the Led’s to a barrier strip and the barrier strip to the pcb, wire up the battery pack and the switch.

Ok folks here it is the tutorial for the button flashing LED mod.

Parts needed.
LEDs, one for each button
Resistors, one for each LED scaled for the voltage being supplied
Perf Board to mount the electronics
A hex inverter (Toodles recommended the 74HCT04, but also said that any of the 7404 family will work like the 74LS04 or 74HC04)
Wire, 26 or 24 AWG

Tools needed,
Drill and drill bit to fit the LEDs
Soldering Iron
Rosin core Solder
Screw drivers

This paticular mod is for 10 buttons so I am using 2 chips. This can be done with one chip for 6 buttons as well.

First step is to mount the chips to the perfboard. Note the orentation, the white stripe helps line things up.

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee314/KaytrimsKustoms/Electronics/Step1.jpg

Next step is to identify the legs of the chips and install the resistors for the LEDs. Notice that each chip has one leg for the power and one leg for the ground.

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee314/KaytrimsKustoms/Electronics/Step2.jpg

Now drill a hole in the buttons to fit the LEDs. My LEDs are 3mm so a 1/8" bit is perfect. You can also glue the LEDs into the holes at this point. Make sure to test them first. Be extra careful if you choose to use supper glue. It can drip into the button and ruin it.

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee314/KaytrimsKustoms/Electronics/Step3.jpg

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee314/KaytrimsKustoms/Electronics/Step6.jpg

When using Perfboard there are small copper disks around each hole but they are not connected to each other. You have to create a bridge from one hole to the other as you can see in these two pics. They are the same board just top and bottom views.

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee314/KaytrimsKustoms/Electronics/PerfboardTop.jpg

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee314/KaytrimsKustoms/Electronics/PerfboardBottom.jpg

The first wires I solder in place are the power and ground lines. I just jumpered them from one chip to the other.

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee314/KaytrimsKustoms/Electronics/Step4.jpg

Here is where the magic happens. The wires from the pad, to the button and anode of the LED are added to the perfboard. Also notice the holes drilled in the perfboard are for mounting the board in the case. It will be real difficult to drill them after all the wires are added.

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee314/KaytrimsKustoms/Electronics/Step5.jpg

Here are all the wires soldered in place and the board screwed to the case. I used Cat-5 network cable to help keep things straight.

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee314/KaytrimsKustoms/Electronics/Step7.jpg

And here is the board’s underside.

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee314/KaytrimsKustoms/Electronics/Step7a.jpg

The final step is to daisy chain the grounds on the LEDs and connect them to the ground from the pad. Then connect the ground and power from the perfboard to the ground and power on the pad. In this case I connected the ground to the daisy chain ground on the buttons.

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee314/KaytrimsKustoms/Electronics/Step8.jpg

Finally here is a short vid showing the working end product.
http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee314/KaytrimsKustoms/Electronics/th_100_3054.jpg

I hope this helps everyone who is looking to do the on their own sticks.
Kaytrim

nice work… I’m almost finished with mine too I’ll be posting it soon…:china:

Kaytrim, you should post up a pic of the bottom of the perfboard. I spent the longest time not having a clue how to use perfboard, and I would expect others trying this for the first time may not know how to connect the leads on the underside. I know it probably looks like someone sneezed solder everywhere, god knows mine do, but showing how to connect everything with solder, resistor leads, or bus wire, would probably be helpful.

EDIT: I dont know if I mentioned it, but any unused gate inputs should be tied to ground. The outputs can just float not connected to anything, but connecting the inputs to ground will help with the power consumption.