Yes, mine makes it impossible to change out anything without cutting the wires.
The Quick Disconnect can not even be pulled off, because wires short.
Laugh.
Ah, thanks man. I’m a big fan of easy swaps, so this may be the key. I’ll see if I can get some male .110s somewhere around town, Radioshack will probably fail me of course.
And by heatshrink over the female QD, you mean the one going to the next button? Or just the one on the button ground, or both?
Just the ground on the far left. With it flapping around loosely, it can accidentally come in contact with the exposed button terminals. For example if you are working on a TE, the way the wires are all bunched together there is a chance it could be wedged into a button signal. That would be the same as the button being constantly held down.
Ah, I see what you’re saying. Thanks guys, this is clutch. Ready to take on this mod now.
Hey,
Is there anyone in the north New Jersey/New York City area who I can pay to have a button light up mod done on my te s fightstick? Please let me know if there is anyone out there…
Ok, I just realized I’m going to run into one final bump. I just assembled my FGWidget with jumper wires in place of the resistors, since I’m using KNserts, but I completely forgot about the LED for the stick; that’s going to need a resistor on the ground side, right? I’m using the 3.3V LED that’s been recommended a few times in this thread (Digi-Key - 160-1782-ND (Manufacturer - LTW-420D7)). I gathered from the “DIY LED Joysticks” guide on Arcadecontrols that a 100 ohm resistor should do it, does that sound about right? Or will it interfere with the KNserts?
Resistors go on the voltage side (+) of an LED.
Ok. So to clarify, I need a 100 Ohm resistor on the positive side of the LED, with the wire going to Stick_Out on the FGWidget?
Yes. Resistor between Stick_Out and + leg of anode. As for resistance, I don’t know, but I found this a while back.
How to Wire/Connect LED’s
hi guys!
I have an idea but i’m not sure if it will work.
I was thinking of having 6 regular sanwa buttons, and then 2 seimitsu light up ones on the right.
BUT, the buttons on the right would light up when you press the normal sanwa buttons.
for example, if you hit any punch button, the top right button would light up, if you hit any kick button, the bottom right one would light up.
Is this possible? If so, do you think it’s a stupid idea? be honest, i wont get offended =D
Thanks!
Sure, its possible, but it’d take some wiring trickery. Assuming your stick is common ground, you should be able to. For each of the two LEDs, connect the positive leg to the resistor (330 ohm - 1k ohm, lower resistance means brighter LED) and the other leg of the resistor to your power line. On the other leg of the LED, connect it to three diodes (four if you want the button itself to also cause light up along with the other three) and connect the other end of the diodes to the signal line for the buttons to turn it on. End of the diodes connected to button signal is the end of the diode with the band on it. Any cheap diode will work for non-white, non-blue LEDs, like the N4148’s you can get at any radio shack. If you want blue or white LEDs, you need to get a much lower Vf diode, like N5817, and you may have to get those online.
So for each light up button, you need 1 LED, 1 Resistor, plus 1 diode for each button that will activate it.
If you’d prefer to with a chip instead up multiple diodes, a single chip containing 2 gates that are each 4 input AND gates would do the trick.
Digi-Key - 296-8266-5-ND (Manufacturer - SN74HC21N)
Thanks Toodles, you’re a genius!
By the way, the MC-Cthulu board I bought over a year ago is still working perfectly.
Cheers!
Alright, got my hollow shaft, 3mm led for the balltop on the way, KNserts, fgwidget, and later on MC Cthulhu.
My case has 6 face buttons, 3 rear buttons and the joystick. The fgwidget will take care of the joystick and 8 of the buttons. Can I just wire up the 9th using Bencao74’s method?
For light up on activation, yes.
Thanks.
Still gettin a grip on the led and resistor thing…
It works because when you press a button, you connect the Signal wire to the Ground wire, so then that signal wire becomes ground. Because you connect the negative end to the signal wire, when you press and it becomes ground, the positive side is connected to 5V, while the negative side is at 0V, so you can have current flow through the LED.
The resistor is needed because without it, you’re directly connecting a ground wire to the 5V, regardless of the LED, so you only have the extremely low resistance of the wire in the way. This causes a high current. On USB devices, the system usually disconnects these before they can draw too much current. However, without USB, you can cause blown fuses, PCB damage, or a lot of heat in your stick, if left unchecked.
Yep, I got that far; now I have to experiment with resistors and leds to get the same or close to the same brightness as the other two rear buttons powered by the fgwidget.
Currently I am trying to do my first LED light mod for a friend and I know nothing on how light works. The omhs, hex inverter and resistor on one page makes no sense to me at all and because I do not know how those things work or the purpose of what they are. However I am trying to make this happen but it is way over my head. So far from what I found the easiest way to do it is by using Arceye2 with a Sparky jr. But, I am trying to see how it would wire to a Datel/Paewang pcb with a switch would work. Can someone give me a little assistance here??? xD
Hey guys,
So I’m sure Toodles and jdm will remember me from the nightmarish encounter I had with an attempted LED mod a while ago, but since I’m a glutton for punishment I’ve decided to give it another try and I have some questions.
I’ll be using a FGW with a pcb that’s common ground for sure, none of this deceptive afterglow pcb business. I want to use some 3mm LEDs, two for each button. So using Jab as my example, if I were to connect both positive sides of the LEDs to JAB_OUT, connect JAB_IN to the appropriate button signal, and connect both negative sides of the LEDs to any ground, would that work?
I remember.
Laugh.
Yes, you do that.