The Post right above you.
Yes, see the post above yours, the ones for the PiiWee that LL carries could work but have only 10 pins per so you’d have to not use the U/D/L/R input holes.
Sorry, I thought that part of his post was referring to the cthulhu since it came from that thread. So if I’m reading the welcome document right, I’d need U/D/L/R if I plan to used the 8+3 button config then right?
- You won’t require any resistors except the ones that come with the controller if you are using white or blue leds.
- If you’re sticking them in a button 3mm is the way to go if you don’t go surface mount like the Knsert or arceyes.
- For your first, I’d suggest white LEDs and colors KN’s. Using the same LEDs will make sure everything is consistent.
- If the LEDs are in parallel (the _OUT pin from the controller goes to the positive terminal of both LEDs, and both negative legs are connected to ground) it’ll work just fine without additional hardware. The white LEDs in the KNserts do exactly that.
- Yup, especially with blue and white leds. It should be fine on most systems, but on a PSX, the leds will probably not turn on at all. For the rest of the systems which are all 5v, it’d be fine.
- With the resistors that come with the board, you can’t cause any damage trying, but it is designed to try to not pull too much current from the console. You can put as many in parallel as you like on any _OUT you like, but each extra one makes the others less faint.
Correct. And once its set up, don’t forget to go into the setup menu to activate the extra two play buttons, otherwise the controller wont know they’re there, and wont light them up.
Here you go. These are the ones I bought.
Thanks Toodles, for the answers.
I think I may just go with arc eyes or KNserts based on when they come out. That would simplify things a lot. Is there anything I should know regarding using those and the fgwidget board in regards to resistors? I know in Strogg’s video he was using arc eyes and the fgwidget and mentioned not using the arc eye resistors except to get yellow.
Thanks again!
Alright, I picked the KNserts out the mailbox last night. I also have the FWidget LED board. I ordered some new buttons from Lizardlick that should be arriving today. I’ve cleared the evening so that hopefully I can get everything done tonight.
First impression of the KNSerts is ‘clean’. The only thing I’d possibly do is space out the Vcc and GND holes a bit - there is no real beenfit that I immediatly see for them to be closer - but it makes soldering require a little more skill. I’ll take pictures and what have you during the process tonyte (assuming I get my order) and upload.
- :bluu:
The spacing of those two holes is made to be a 2.54mm/0.1" pitch. It’s a very common spacing for connector pins of various types. For example, on mine (the one I had at Evo for those who saw; I redid the buttons with KNserts) I installed a 2 pin rather long header to the board, and drilled two small holes in the bottom plastic of the button to come out of. That allowed me to use a matching 2 pin female connector to plug right on.
Can’t wait to see pics of those.
Me & USPS are gonna fight…just for the record. I was planning on doing all that work last nyte, but the buttons didn’t show up. I check the status and USPS says they tried to deliver the buttons at 6:22 PM…yeah I had been home since about 4:30…waiting by the door like a dog. ::salty:: I’m going to pick it up after work (my new buttons).
Connectors would be real nice to put on there, I wonder what I have laying around that I can use. Might be worth making an option shrug.
- :bluu:
I’ve had that happen with usps and ups. Seems like they either find your package at the end of their route and don’t feel like delivering it or they’re just lazy from the getgo that day.
Would something like round swiss pin headers fit the hole spacing?That could do the trick
seems like Toodles mentioned he used the extra long male pins. Swiss (machine) pins dont come in long format.
on the arceyes, i did not drill holes, rather just 1 large slot for the swiss headers to fit through.
the only advantage to swiss headers is the locking. standard headers can unplug themselves with shaking, bashing, moving etc.
I started the process last nyte, but spent WAY more time on my bubble top than I anticipated (I felt so unsafe as I was drilling in my hand, so I went slow).
So far I like that its really just ‘drill’, insert wire into KNserts, heat wire and solder, stick thru. I’m still not a fan of how close the holes are for Vcc/GND, b ut it allows you to drill one hole in the button, and it keeps everything extremely neat. Hopefully tonyte I’ll get to finish up (I need to put together the LED board also). Also my pictures suck…due to horrid lighting…
- :bluu:
Hi guys,
I just purchased Toodles MC Cthulhu, I would like to know if I can draw power from the PCB using VCC and Ground on screw terminal to power few LED in parallel setup?
I am not trying to setup anything fancy, just looking for constant LED light to be part of custom joystick cabinet. I believe USB can supplier 5V of power. I can pick up few 3.3v LEDs and resistors to setup parallel, right?
thank in advance.
Yes.
I recently finished my paewang/psx mod…is it still possible to install the FGwidget
If you want to install it, you can install it.
There is no bad or wrong to do so.
You have a Paewang and PlayStation Dual Mod, which means Common Ground.
FGWidget LED Controller works on Common Ground setups.
Just connect Power and Ground to FGWidget LED Controller.
Install LED to Buttons.
Hook up the Buttons.
Done.
Good looks jdm.
This is gonna seem lame, but I’m trying to do a light-on-activation LED mod for a stick. I’m scared to death of doing this, even though I’ve wired sticks before. What’s the easiest way to wire things up? You can direct me to specific posts/things to search for. I’m not trying to be lazy, but I can’t really find it in this thread without getting lost. I just want the easiest way to make my buttons light up on activation with the fewest tools/least mutilation of parts.