I’ll be a guinea pig for those if you’ve got more you wanna test, like 8 
Forgot to post this! Damn too busy with everything. Thank you Toodles for making the LED controller so easy to install that i was able to do it (learning how to solder through youtube was fun) to my son’s fightstick for his B-day suprise.
I’ll post a youtube of it in action soon.
[IMG]http://a.imageshack.us/img412/848/dsc0543b.jpg
![[IMG]http://a.imageshack.us/img412/848/dsc0543b.jpg](http://img412.imageshack.us/i/dsc0543b.jpg/){kind=link}
Uploaded with ImageShack.us[/IMG]
Oh. :wgrin:
How does inside look?
My paypal address is marcus@marcuspost.com . Send a paypal ($14 for six, $18 for eight), mark the box that say ‘for goods’, make sure the address is correct, and mention your SRK handle and what its for (“six KNserts”) in the note, and I’ll send them out asap.
I’ll be offering this for you and Unreallystic, but after that I’ll be stopping. I got quotes in on assembled one recently, and I expect the price for them will be closer to $3 each than the $2 each I originally offered.
I like how the etchings seem to glow. Good job.
I really like the motif and the glow…I’d be tempted to try and add some glow to the Avatar’s eyes to match…but I’m crazy like that hehe…is the glow on the edges coming from inside or outside? I’m hoping that my mirror finish gives a similar affect.
- :bluu:
Would I be able to use this board in conjunction with a masterstrike? With the masterstrike/arc eye combo, I can switch between 2 different (RGB) LED colors if wired for button press light up. With the LEDs and signal lines both going to the LED board, I’m not sure (and I’m at work so I can’t concentrate on how the wiring would work if possible).
I frankly dont know. I’m not familiar at all with the masterstrike board.
The M$trike is pretty much a 6 channel power switching board. It allows you to power 2 sets of LEDs separately, or 2 PCBs, etc. For instance, I’ve gotmy arc eyes wired for button press light up, I’ve got 2 anode chains running to eack arc eye, one for green and one for blue. The anode chains are then connected to the the 2 LED channels on the M$trike board. using a combination of select and a joystick direction (or however you chose to wire it up), I can select which anode chain power gets sent to, switching from green, blue, both, or all off.
http://shoryuken.com/f177/master-strike-pcb-intelligent-control-center-229306/
(In case you’re interested)
I was thinking of doing that by using the LED’s with the stick movement but with this being my first install of anything dealing with soldering i figured i would wait and see if it worked first lol. The glow is from the LED’s lighting up arthong’s plexi cover. totally unintentional but a really nice added effect.
JDM- imagine closing a door on a angry giant squid and you armed with only with a small flathead screwdriver… good thing is it all works and i won’t have to EVER open his fightstick again (knocks on wood).
Yes, the glow on the Acrylic is cool.
Lighting the edges and etching.
Hope you not have to open the TE again also.
Laugh.
where can i get a toodles led board?
i’m going to experiment with this next paycheck. I’m assuming I’ll also need some arc-eye’s correct?
If you want to.
Theres other options?
Just put regular LED into your Buttons if you do not want to use Arc-Eye.
I didnt use arc eyes either. I’m not saying you shouldnt. the arc eyes look amazing but i just looked up 3mm LED’s and found a site that had the colors i was looking for.
Pololu Robotics and Electronics is what i used and i’m pretty happy with the outcome.
So I feel like I got everything wired up but I’m getting some strange behavior with the fgwidget controller. By default lp mp fp and lk are dark, and have the fade-in on press and fade out on release behavior while all the other lights seem to be permanently on. Also I can’t seem to get the stup menu to work as hold lp gives no change at all. Holding three punches whhen plugging in doesn’t seem to change anything and tournament can be entered by only holding lk. I’ll have to take another look at everything after some sleep.
I accidentally posted this in toodles cthulhu thread…
Alright, got my screw terminals on the way. Kudos to digikey for shipping so fast. Less than an hour after I placed the order I got a shipping confirmation. Cheap shipping too.
Now, about the FGwidget LED board. If I’m reading the welcome document correctly, I won’t need any additional resistors on the leds, correct?
Here’s where I’ll be grabbing my LEDs: Super Bright LEDs
I’ll be using either 3mm of 5mm, not sure yet. What would be the ideal combination; colored KN buttons with white LEDs, colored LEDs with clear KN’s, or colored KN’s with color matched LEDs? I’m looking for uniform color and brightness and I noticed each LED has different luminous intensity values. There’s no one value that the colors I’ll be using share really, so that sort of tells me to use colored buttons with white LEDs. Or is there really not much of a difference? And if using similar values between 3mm and 5mm LEDs I imagine there’s little to no difference, so in that case size would be nothing more than a preference.
About the number of LEDs I’ll be using; I plan to use 2 LEDs for each button (6 buttons) to keep the color uniform and bright. I also plan to use an LED for the joystick (drilled shaft, clear balltop). None for the 3 admin buttons. Will I run into any issues like needing extra resistors? Also, this will be going in a stick with an MC Cthulhu. Will I run into any problems with the lower voltage consoles? In fact, is there a limit to the number of LEDs that can be used?
I may just go for some arc eyes.
Can’t wait for KNserts.
Thanks!
Would it be possible to put Screw Terminal Blocks on an FGWidget? If so what size/pitch and whatnot should I get? Would either of those that Lizardlick carry work?