kaytrim, so is it possible to do this mod with shinjn Axisdapter board? or am I still outta luck? Sorry I’m pretty newb at electrical wiring and stuff.
On a side note, when will you be open again? I would like to purchase a box from you.
Sorry but I don’t believe it’ll work. These adapters just make it easier to wire up the controls to the sixaxis pads.
I should be able to get back into the shop here in the next week. I have a few custom orders to finish up. Then I can concentrate on building cases again as well as gearing up for some electronics boards.
Thanks to the tutorials and instructions from all the very talented people here I managed to get this LED mod working last night, now I have a few questions if anyone can please help.
- Is there any way to increase the brightness output of the 6 LED’s I have wired? I am using 6 LEDs (I used Red LEDs that were rated at 3.3v) and 6 resistors (1/8 watt, 220).
Thanks in advance…
U= R x I, so with 220 ohms, there should be I=3,3/220=0.015 A=15mA. Try 3.3/0.020=330/2=115 Ohms resistor instead. The LEDs will be brighter without sacrificing their life expectancy.
Katrim, I am having issues finding the 74HTC20 chip you recommended for the joystick portion of the light activation mod. I’ve checked on mouser and the closest I can find is a 74HCT24. I’m not familiar enough with the site and logic chips to really understand what I’m looking for. Could you point me in the right direction?
The 74xx24 has nothing to do with the 74xx20. If you can’t find HCT, try LS or ALS, speed is not critical in this application.
Sweet was able to find the 74LS20 with my first google search. Thanks harry.
Just to be sure… The buttons do work with the switch off right?
If i just want to use only 1 for “HOME” button, do i need resistor for it or just straight into the PCB?
Btw, i’m using original microsoft xbox PCB. I plan to remove the original LED from its PCB and put wires to extend its length to the button.
Which button should i get? Seimitsu PS-14-KN or just the clear plunger only.
I just want to do get some light on that Home button, that its, nothing fancy.
Thanks in advance. (^_^)
Yes.
One of my customers here at Ultimarc pointed me to this thread. Let me state firstly that I have never really looked in detail at “real” console controllers since we produce our own boards.
With this caveat, it seems to me that a lot of unnecessary effort is going on here. If the controllers have a common ground input, and all inputs are individual as opposed to any kind of matrix etc, then there is no need for any inverter chip, or any circuitry at all.
All you need to do is connect one end of the LED to a 5 volt source and the other to the input (and the switch). A series resistor of course as well, unless the LED is a 5 volt type.
When the button is pressed, the LED will be grounded and light up.
Many people have used this method with out LED pushbuttons:
http://www.ultimarc.com/ultralux.html
There might be some special feature of the design of console controllers which I have missed but it is mentioned on this thread that they are common ground.
Andy
Sure, this issue is long known. People kept this approach, because others did it before. I’ve introduced your hint with a little schematic here:
Last sticks using this method even with dual mods are here:
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Bye,
Ben
This looks way too complicated for me…i wish there was like a video guide for the SE stick.
I see how this would work, but if your LED needed anything less than 5v, couldn’t this possibly cause issues? You’d need a resistor, and depending on how much voltage was left, you might get an always-active button, correct?
(IIRC, Series = Voltage Draw, Parallel = Amperage draw)
resistor is the little box in the schematic. Europeans 
Never exceeded this value. Neither on xbox360 nor PS2. I know dozen of led mods using no inverter. But probably someone could help me out with the electronics. xbox360 voltage from usb is 5V. My Led has often U_Led of 3V. So we’re talking about voltage left 2V. Where is the limit for registering signals?
No, the button would not be always active, the LED is connected to 5 volts not GND, so cannot activate the button as its tending to pull the input to the high state, when pulling it low activates it.
A series resistor is needed for a standard LED, yes.
If the controller is a 3 volt type, just adjust the resistor value accordingly, the supply voltage to the LED will be 3 volts instead of 5. In the case of a 3 volt controller (eg Playstation) the LED is connected to 3 volts in the controller instead of 5.
If I use a wireless xbox 360 PCB with one of those rechargeable battery packs (2.4ish volts) could I skip resistors since the LEDs are rated at 2.3v with a max of 3v?
Andy I really appreciate you posting here with this explanation to my question. It makes since now and seems alot more simple that I was trying to make it.
Yes, exactly this way
Resistors are always needed with LEDs to limit the current, with the only exception being LEDs with in-built resistors. These are always rated at 5 or 12 volts.
Even if you have a LED which is rated at 2.3 volts you cant connect it to a supply of 2.3 volts, strange as it might seem. The supply needs to be higher so that you can use a current-limiting resistor. The resistor must be calculated to give a a current which does not exceed the rated cyurrent of the LED, and give a voltage drop of the difference between the LED rated voltage and the supply voltage.
If you were to connect a 2.3 volt LED to a supply of 2.3 volts, the LED would attempt to draw unlimited current from the source. If the source were a high-current source such as a ni-cad battery the LED would burn out immediately.