Sure. What info were you particularly looking at? The previous posts were just things already in the wiki.
so if i got the cthulhu i wouldn’t need any batteries?
how would it look without it?
would you need a switch like in the first picture?
sry i always failed at physics in school, so if i missed something in this thread just blame it on me beeing unable to learn this kind of stuff 
physics? you mean electronics?
The switch is only needed if you’re powering the LEDs via an external power source (like batteries). I’ve never tried it, but the cthulhu board should work. Ask toodles about it since I don’t know much about the board.
Electronics is applied physics
With the Cthulhu, you do not need batteries or a switch. I have tested it and it works just fine.
Hi guys, am halfway through this light-up mod for my Hori EX2 joystick for the 360.
Now am having a problem whereby a button depressed will result in some of the others depressed as well.
I would suppose this is due to the interconnected grounds for each button’s signal since each button has a different ground where they are now all interconnected to the hex invertor’s ground.
Therefore, does anyone know how and what I should do for a PCB such as this with different grounds? 
Yup.
Ting, did you ever get the switchless version of the schematic to work? I know Toodles and Shin Ace went back and forth about it but I didn’t see any resolution to why it didn’t work.
Toodles and I technically did, but the power was bleeding out somewhere. IIRC, I ran out of batteries in a week with barely any use. The stuff I used is in the first post.
Ah. I see. I was hoping I could get a switchless version working with a SIXAXIS but if the power bleeds, I will be sticking to the switch version then.
Any idea guys? The search here is not helping… :shake:
Scrap it. There’s no way to force it to work that would be cheaper or easier than ripping out the pcb and putting in a common ground madcatz pad.
O sheesh, the truth hurts but thanks for breaking it to me toodles~
Anyway, anyone can confirm those sold in Amazon are common ground? See that its release date is aug 12 2008 which should hopefully be since thats about the 1 site I know about that ships to asia.
looks great, been meaning to swap my hrap to seimitsu
So I’m thinking of adding two Xbox 360 pcbs to my light up arcade stick setup. I know the topic of multiple pcbs has been discussed in other threads, but mine is specific to light up.
If I picked up two hacked pads, could I just run wires from each of the QDs to their respective slots in the iPac VE and put the grounds into the barrier strip? The iPac would then have two wires coming out of each input as well as the 5v slots.
As long as I don’t plug the controllers in at the same time as the iPac I should be ok and still maintain my lighted buttons and joystick, correct?
I’m sorry, but I have no experience of the iPac. Maybe someone else could chime in to help? If not, give me some time to read up and I’ll try to give an educated answer =P
There exists some solutions with optocopplers which can be found in the xbox scene forum.
But this is indeed a good advice 
I usually use 4066 analog switch IC’s and then 7414 hex inverters to change it from active high to active low to do the same thing Cheaper than optocouplers I’d imagine.