Move a JLF lever, then move the Hayabusa lever. The H’s switches are much louder.
They’re soldered and shrink wrapped.
The switches on Hayabusa are softer. The JLF switches are inherently louder because they’re higher tension. They’re close enough though that they should be about the same, not a big deal. The actuator on Hayabusa is a lot harder so it’s possible the combination of the harder plastic plus switches and gate slapping can create more noise than a JLF. I would say most of the Hayabusa’s “loudness” comes from the harder actuator. Both sticks have gates made of the same material, polycarbonate.
Not enough of a difference to really even notice. The largest difference is the sound of the actuator contacting the gate.
The switch housings are different designs, possibly different plastics too. Matsushita switches always sound different from Omron even though the internals are interchangeable and basically identical for all intents and purposes.
I’m not sure if anyone’s ever done this, but I took a little paint brush and some krytox switch lubricant (that I when I modded the switches in my filco to ergo clears) and painted the parts that make contact in my HHS switches. When I compared a lubed vs a non lubed switch I could notice a nice difference. The button was popping back faster and overall the switch just felt much more responsive.
The **whole mechanism comes out as one piece **fairly easily, making things much easier.
Just something to consider. Thanks
Well color me impressed @Cagan. Now that’s some tech talk there. Experimentation.
So I took a sanwa button switch apart to take a look and it made me wonder if anyone has ever considered replacing the springs in their switches. People do it with mechanical keyboards all of the time. I’m not sure if a ****cherry mx spring would work **** because the [spring in the sanwa switch](How does a sanwa button switch work? has a different shape. Once originativeco.com opens back up I’ll buy some springs and test it out. I’m not sure if it’ll even work but it might be interesting nonetheless.
Anyway, in case anyone wants to lube your buttons you wouldn’t even need to take the switch itself apart. Just take the top off, switch out and paint a tiny bit of lube in the spots marked in red(around the base of each part). Seems to make everything nice and snappy to me!
Lubing buttons is something I have been thinking about lately. Anyway that’s a bit off topic.
Should probably make a new thread for contact switches (which is what most Japanese buttons are using) and post the information there since this thread is for snap action switches. It actually sounds like a good idea to try another spring, and the MX springs should be small. I’m thinking that there will probably be too much tension and the button will be active fully. If not, it may end up being a good mod for people to try. I never experimented with MX style switches since I don’t have any but mixing and matching could get some interesting results.
You should really consider getting a mech keyboard.
You could always cut the springs to size. One thing I want to try is using alps switches in sanwa buttons. With a little modification to the top of the button they may be able to fit. I’m also going to order a full set of gamerfinger buttons. MX switches are extremely modable and I think I could do a lot of really cool things by putting modded mx switches in the gamerfingers.
Even the lightest MX switch (red) is heavier than the sanwa so I personally wouldn’t use gamerfingers in my main (panzer) stick. My hand would just tire out too quickly and plinking would be impossible for me. That and the fact that I love my LED’s and there ain’t no 30mm peles to be found!
I’ll drop this for now and make a new thread when i get some stuff in the mail.
EDIT: Also Bryan @ PAS seems like he would be fully capable of making custom springs. That may be a really cool thing to consider.
So, I finally got around to installing the Omron V-16G2-1C25 switches in my LS-40. Had to do a very small amount of x-acto knife modding to make them fit the 01 variant (pcb type) of the stick, nothing major though. After messing around with it for an hour or so, I’m liking them better than the stock Matsushidas, the lever seems a bit more precise to me.
Do the short Omron levers fit inside a JLF or a Hayabusa?
Yes they will. You can fit short levered Omron into JLF and Hayabusa with no mods whatsoever.
As for the LS-40, what I ended up doing was using a nail clipper to cut the plastic switch placeholder tabs off and then cut it smooth with a razor. After an accident I am not comfortable cutting through plastic completely with a razor alone, lol.