Lets talk about basic snap action switches, and mods!

Came across this while looking for Namco stick replacements, figured it was worth a resurrection. Lots and lots of Omron options, with a guide on how to decipher the model numbers. EDIT: pdf file https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&ei=yGj-U6LHC4HnoATkr4LoBQ&url=http://www.components.omron.com/components/web/pdflib.nsf/0/FE0F8E8EEB5D725485257201007DD573/%24file/V_1110.pdf&cd=1&ved=0CCoQFjAA&usg=AFQjCNHFZxDwZrWqyXp_ic19lTNaQvsYuw

I wonder what a 400gf switch equipped lever would feel like?

I use that reference all the time when I need to shop for switches. 400 gf would be double what a JLF is which is 200 gf. It would be pretty rough handling that.

New Omron V-15-1C25’s (SPDT, .187", 200gf) and V-16G2-1C25’s (SPDT, .5mm contact gap, lever, .187", 200gf) are on order, looking forward to trying the levered switches out in everything I can fit them in.

Where do you normally shop for them? I ordered from Digi-Key.

Usually mouser.com, unless another site has some obscure version of a switch in stock. Usually they don’t so I just stick to mouser. Mouser has always been fast and reliable for me.

Do levered switches work well for non bat top joysticks? I was under the impression that someone (me) using a wineglass grip wouldn’t like them much. I’ve never actually used them.

Levers tend to make diagonals a bit easier and they shorten the engage distance by a hair or two. Very scientific measurements, I know.

Using a bat or a ball top makes no difference in switch/lever operation.

Easier diagonals really depends on the design. The Happ Super is a nice feeling levered American stick, but the diagonal zones are pretty tiny and easy to miss.

@Cagan most sticks do use levered microswitches, for instance all Seimitsu sticks.

Gotcha. Unfortunately I would have to dremel my hayabusa in order to get levered switches to fit. I’m thinking about buying some cherry and omeron switches just to try out and see if I like them more than the default switches in the hori.

Also, does anyone have any advice for putting a cherry switch back together? I have all the parts but its just so hard.

Reassembling switches is delicate work, but it’s just reversing the disassembly. You could try some Diazepam, like Solid Snake.*

Spoiler

*Don’t try this at home, kids.

I know where everything goes. The problem is that I just can’t do it. Is there any particular order of operations that makes everything easier for kittens?

I hear Sriracha smoke works just as well.

Actually I may want something a little quieter. The HHS is loud as balls. According to the research I did the switches that come in the HHS are 200g. The only quiet switches I can find even close to that are the omeron D2RV-G’s, which are only 125g. Is there nothing a little closer? Or maybe I’ll just try the 125’s.

The Hayabusa isn’t loud because of the switches. It’s loud because of the gate. Are you planning on soldering new switches on the the Busa’s PCB?

You can’t just plug them in? IF you can’t just plug them in then I won’t even bother trying new ones out. I think I’m actually really happy with the kowal actuator and LS-32 spring.

And here I thought there was going to be some nice scientific switch talk :frowning:

I know :frowning:

No.

I guess we can’t have it all at SRK’s Tech Talk. :slight_smile:

Haven’t opened mine in a while, but I thought I remembered the Hayabusa’s switches being connected with .187 QD’s, meaning you should be able to swap switches without soldering.