OkOk glad that it’s not only that I suck at iAD lol
I actually have another stick with a Sanwa JLF but it feels so freaking weird to play on now that I’ve used the Fanta a lot, not enough resistance and I really do like the linear resistance of the Fanta
Are you waiting for Focus attack to restock? I was planning to get it from them too, the shipping isn’t too bad to Canada
AFAIK that’s not the case, just the general looseness of the stick itself
Hey, haven’t posted here for some time but for those trying to order on Makestick.com (in North America at least), IST created a US version of their main store.
I wouldn’t be surprised if IST had this since their store redesign. Shoutouts to washow over at r/Tekken for pointing it out.
Unlike Makestick which had issues with items never in stock, this should be easier to work with. Now you guys can bother trying those Crown CWB-207H buttons or even trying the standard version of the Crazy Dongpal lever (not the player tuned version that you can get directly from the man himself).
I haven’t tried paying for stuff there yet but hopefully it’s easy.
When they get the Kaze lever back in stock, I am gonna go get that plus the Kaze-modded 309 lever as well.
FA just got their restock yesterday or today, but I’m going to be picking it up from PAS once they update their website. I got in touch with Timothy at customer service & he said they have 309s with Panasonic switches. 
Anyone hear more about the switches Kaze made? He made a post on dcinsider forum in korea about them and he was selling them. I assume he stopped making kaze levers so that he could make v4 with his own microswitches this time.
Also what about fujin lever? I got a drone for cheap so I’m gonna drill a hole and make this a korean lever with a neck stick. I know they stopped making fujin v2 because of the panasonic switch discontinuation but are they gonna figure out anything for v3?
Link?
Also you might have little to no room to put a Korean lever, let alone a Fujin, inside. Even if you can, I can only see it with the collar facing more outwards that what’s on other sticks. As for a 3rd version, there are no news.
Oh wow, haven’t those been discontinued for a long time? How would I indicate in my order that I want one? lol
EDIT: Holy HELL! They’re all gone already! I was scared when I saw the other colors going out of stock so I panic bought the white helpme, I think I got the last one lol
How do we go about the later. TIA.
Have to talk to him on Kaokao Talk at crazydongpal.
Haven’t post anything lately. here is the new tech for Golden Project (have share it on discord)
we will replace acrylic parts using metal for more reliable performance
From what I was told, they should all have Panasonics. I believe it was leftover stock that was not posted.
I straight up missed it lmao. How were they gone so quickly?! We got some snipers lurking the forums…!
Good thing my dog Timothy got me. 
Big thanks to @Marios for hooking me up with a 309 HelpMe. I won’t get to test it for a while, but it feels nice.
Coming from a Suzo it has a small deadzone, so I might change to a smaller actuator at some point. I’ll see how I get on first, though.
no problem man , glad to help other fellas hope you do enjoy it , its really a big difference from the 309 helpme.
this hapent to my fujin , this isnt normal or ? can i replace it ?
The guys who made the Fujin made a nice job for the switch plate,switch placement, grommet bushing and actuator which are neatly made … but the battop is absolute rubbish and poorly made, extremely amateurish for a whole list of reasons.
You could attempt to epoxy the brass insert in the battop , being careful to clean the parts to glue,wipe excess resin away while avoiding to end up with a starved joint etc, but to be honest you’d better be looking for a compatible shaft and removable battop in a standard thread size (M6 ), something professional, there are a lot of options out there.
Wazwuz makes custom shafts, you can ask him.
In the meanwhile you should write to the store from whom you bought it and ask for a replacement or at least ask for the email of the modders who made the fujin to explain to them directly your problem.
Sup.
Got my Obsidian ready for Korean levers. The stock metal panel was modified by my dad’s co-worker while the acrylic plexi is by the awesome @EJM. Gotta get finished artwork printed soon. Hopefully it’s all ready for NCR weekend!
Also got my Crazy Dongpal lever, tuned by the man himself, thanks to @noricon. While I haven’t played with it yet, I have something that’s bugging me about it. To be fair, I have to put it on a stick and try it.
Oh yeah, IST recently released the Alpha lever. It’s sort of a successor to the FLF lever a while back. It’s currently sold out, since it was made in limited quantities, but I do hope to get that and the Kaze V3 lever when they go back in stock. Might want to get the Infiltration lever circle gate, actuator apparently made for Tekken and some 207H buttons as well.
On the page for the Alpha lever, I see different levers being placed on a chart. What exactly’s being ranked/described here? Tension?
Definitely looks like tension. Their drop down options show different grommets. As for the other info beside the down input mark, I don’t know.
IST is known for showing product photos that do not always match the real deal, nevertheless, the switches they’re using on their “alpha” lever are DECO / VICSTAR (old news again, a classic korean switch used on older k-levers, both Fanta type and Samducksa ), model is as seen on pics VP533A-2FR.
F= 200gf actuation force WITHOUT HINGE LEVER which translates for us as 120gf since there is a hinge lever of standard length.
Tech sheet available on official site here (odd no links were ever given , not even by Kowal) :
www.decosw.co.kr/w4y/board.php?pcode=02_02&no=64
Quality is acceptable, DECO is classic amongst k-lever connoisseurs, not on par with Panasonic nor Omron though, . Seems like they’re keeing things exclusive to (old) stocks available in Korea and never looking for something really new.
What I do not like at ll is this commercial pitch that seems to be the big hype today consisting in claims such as " PAINSTAKINGLY FINE TUNED BY HAND", “EACH SWITCH ADJUSTED BY HAND ONE BY ONE”, IST goes as far as saying they’ve “adjusted each directional input” which is funny knowing the dimensional error percentage error on crucial parts such as the silicone grommet is relatively high (high shrinkage percentage and dimensional tolerances due to material , final shore hardness is ±20% etc…) so minute fractions of mm for switch actuation distance become irrelevant compared to the issue of having tolerance issues, sorry to say this but its just true.
It is even more funny when you think companies such as Sanwa and Seimitsu never remotely mentioned the matching of switches nor their supposed “tuning” (they only advertised the high quality of the switches and claimed they were exclusive) since their batches were and are probably already sorted out coming from the factory, as arcade techs rarely had to face the problem of replacing a switch in a new lever.
IMHO a tongue in cheek confession that IST and Samducksa used switches that came from batches that cost less due to higher issues which leads them now to all speak of “hand tuned switches”.
once again, apart from really modding switches with amateur tricks (NOT long term solutions NOR reliable) such as adding tape or bending hinge levers or even internal parts, you cannot “hand tune” switches, the only thing that is worth doing is matching, that is only if you pick them out of a batch where they are relatively unmatched …
Think of tubes/valves for amplifiers or even power solid state components, you can buy 12 and match them by hand or buy them FACTORY MATCHED by pairs (costs a bit more). IMHO, if you have a company selling levers, it is more relevant to have a special price for a whole batch of switches that have a high percentage of being very very close (matched or almost ) rather than to buy some a cheap batch with multiple issues and “match them by hand” which is ridiculous and would take a lot of time and sounds like something to impress newbies.
Something else, I spoke with a few members here and from reading between the lines concerning the weird and overblown description given on korean istmall website for the so called “custom” Kaze Gersung switches, I speculated it was all about a different hinge lever alloy being used and nothing else (apart from the “KZ” marking, which costs a tad more in production).
Apparently I was right reading lately on a blog that SUPERHWOARANG was “selling on IST some gersung switches with a stronger hinge lever” (literally) as seen here on his own blog:
http://1-23.tistory.com/guestbook
Why the Kaze marking on the switch when Superhwoarang says that he himself sells that Gersung switch with stiffer lever on IST? HMMMM…
I say it is just a normal hinge option as available with many other switch companies (Cherry, Omron, etc you can see these options offered by Cherry in their tech sheets/catalogs, while companies like Gersung do not even mention them, you need to personally contact the latter) who generally propose several options for hinge levers : stainless or cold rolled steel (nickel plated). Cherry D4 series proposes both alloy options for example, Omron V is stainless steel hinge lever as stock. This type of option is extremely common in the snap action switch world.
The stiffer alloy will of course give a faster actuation due to less bending but again this seems a bit funny considering the actuator and lever body are much less stiff than the switches’ lever alloy and thus have a certain amount of “give”, even if it’s delrin, not even speaking of the fact that the pivoting is done by a RUBBERY part which further reduces precision. Nevertheless with training you can compensate all these flaws to a certain extent.
this being said, IST seems to have improved a bit the quality of their casting as the “Alpha” levers on the pics seem to have less shrinkage issues compared to usual fantas and flf they made before.
Beware of commercial claims and placebo effect, try out for yourself while remaining objective and don’t buy the hype when it grows out of proportion .
Otoh there’s a lot of useful info on Superhworang’s blog ( some info is more a question of personal taste and feeling though and what he said once about switches being measured in quality just by pretravel distance (or actuation point distance, it’s the same thing) is not true, there are many other factors , he himself admitted that on one blog page, speaking of tolerance issues more present on gersung than on panasonic which remain his favourite),
