Korean arcade parts discussion

Hey guys, i’m not sure if this is the correct place to post this question, but I was wondering if anyone else ever dealt with a Paewang pcb that isn’t recognized by PC?

My Omni just stopped working on by my PC lately, and all I get is the “USB device not recognized” popup… Also, i’ve tested it on multiple PCs so at this point should I just accept that my pcb is dead?

Thanks in advance! :frowning:

@SirGoggles , sucks man. Hopefully you get it swapped out soon and tell us what you think about the HelpMe version. I’m personally on the fence and would like to throw down on a Crown 309 HelpMe because my last crown was a 303 and I didn’t mind it. Especially once I put the Panasonic switches in it (originally came with the gersung gsm-v023a3).

As of lately I’ve been tinkering around with my Golden Fanta Parts. I find myself playing on the 8 mm shaft/ Light Blue grommet/ stock actuator / and Gersung A2’s lately and really digging it (I do plan on trying the Panasonics but the A2’s haven’t been bothering me so I’ve just been focusing on gameplay). After playing on the Green grommet for awhile, I felt like I could use more resistance. And this is where the golden fanta parts shine…

Have some of you guys been veering off from when you originally started with your Golden Fanta Parts? Just Curious.

Random sidenote: I did notice some of the Korean players at Evo last night playing on Razers with K-Mounted sticks (Knee, Dimeback, Saint, JeonDDing) which was cool.

is it possible to force it into 360 mode? maybe you should do that and see if it works

What’s your guy’s thoughts on the 309MJ-ST35 against the Myoungshin Fanta? I was planning on buying the stuff from focusattack because of the sale, but I’m hearing about the microswitch stuff. And I’m just want to hear from other people lol

We got a special run of the Version 2 Helpme directly from the creator for Evo. Amazing help from our Korean friends who carried these 10 levers over.

We will be working on getting more shipped asap. This is difficult to find because these are literally hand tuned levers. The bodies etc are stock but each stick is then tuned to precise specifications. We will keep everyone informed as we have a better delivery time frame

Cool, it would be nice to one of those Version 2 Helpme!

You can cycle through the different modes by holding down the turbo button, but that doesn’t work either… Same message.

We completely sold out of the version 2 Helpme, but we are working on getting more. Also, purple bats will be for sale this week!

https://scontent.fash1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-0/q83/s480x480/19989532_1567742819953266_8457804056188251931_n.jpg?oh=7e00a1969cbed5bfc5ff0e8beb5d4e45&oe=59F57C59

Can you share any details about this version 2 Helpme? Switches used, grommet type/strength, etc? I’m sure we’d all love to pics even :slight_smile:

Back from Evo! I bought a Helpme V2 lever (@hibachifinal wanted one). Since it was the Japanese flat plate version, I swapped the plate and flat gate with the 309’s Korean parts. From what I tested, changes are subtle. The most obvious difference was that the Helpme V2, at least in the latest shipment uses Gersung GSM-V0323A2 switches for left, right and down. The up direction features a GSM-V1623A2 switch which recalls the Kaze V2 switch. Tension felt a bit lighter than the stock 309. Maybe it’s a placebo but moving around the edges feels considerably smoother.

Oh yeah, the Helpme arcade stick case I assume is from a Chinese design after seeing some of the cases PAS was selling at Evo. As for the Zero Plus artwork, it seems likely unrelated to Brook which the parent company is Zero Plus.

It could be a dead PCB or one of the USB’s individual wires disconnected to the PCB.

I see i got recently the 309mj version 1 that came with GSM-V1623A3, i thought someone in here said they are older switches than what is out now, but if that is true then how come i got these switches if it was a recent buy from makestick not that it exactly matters it is a nice stick!

I’ve never heard of 309MJ v2 (perhaps it exists) , the news is about the original Helpme309 which seems to be revised to V2.

“old” vs “new” A2 switch… it’s not really the problem. The switches are identical but rated at different temperatures, the differences should be minute since both are supposed to comply to the same data sheet specs except for temp rating.

what we should be worrying about is Makestick/IST who doesn’t care to tell their customers what type of switches are mounted in the levers they sell (they give you whatever they have in stock) , since they don’t present any reference code as seen on US and EURO arcade parts webstores : overseas refs contain “KMS” or “JMS” code which means Korean Mounted Switches or JapaneseMS.

Still, if it says “KMS” you can get any GSM-V Gersung : A2,A3, A4… will they dare put A5? Not to mention the “dreaded” different temp rated version you shouldn;t be so afraid of .

At least when JMS is present in the ref , it means you’re getting one and only type of switch, a specific AM5 Panasonic model.
You know what? I bet the US/Euro ref is just the real catalog ref from Crown, it’s just that IST/Makestick do not specify the refs at all for certain commercial reasons.

Once you understood the trick, you know what you’re in for when you order from Makestick: the microswitch lottery.

Concerning the purple battop seen on several pics from Korea, Crown had gamers vote online on Ruliweb to propose a new battop color which should be on their catalog from then on. It wasn’t sepcified if it was reserved for a specific model, unless I missed something.

The v2 is not from ist or Makestick

This is done by the South Korean modder who did the original that was then reproduced.

I will try to get some more details but he is, understandably, not wanting to disclose every mod/trick. He did this for v1 and that didn’t end well.

On another note, our sticks are not from Makestick/IST and we have brought a native speaking Korean translator who competes on board to help offer the best products we can.

@armi0024
Did I ever imply V2 was from IST ? Never. The only “mod” I’ve heard from IST was the FLF and it’s a Myoungshin variant, not a Crown.
I was replying to ViolentKenV about the “old” vs “new” A2 switches he was concerned about, and the fact that Makestick doesn’t specify what they sell exactly.

You’re exagerrating with the “hidden specs” . If the body is stock and switches not a custom run, all the rest (actuator & shaft dimensions) can be measured easily . Grommet material, if different, can only be “guesstimated” by people who work in the elastomer industry and to be honest, the Korean modders copy the myoungshin and crown grommet dimensions anyways, except for some additional small holes.

I think he was responding to Phantomnaut though I could be mistaken @armi0024

“Hidden Specs” ? I should have called them top secret level clearance specs. I don’t know how I exaggerated anything, there are modifications to the grommet and body with different switches used.

There has been a lot of discussion about the IST/Make stick levers, I was saying that we do not use them. There has been a lot of off line discussion as well.

I was not aware that there were variations in the Helpme stick. I’m interested in trying out the V2 when it’s in stock.

@Agieze thanks for the info, now I know! I only called it version 1 because I thought there was a version 2 which I stand incorrect. I find the Korean sticks to be Awesome. I like the way they play, I been playing with Japanese sticks for a while which the Sanwa JLF-TPRG-8AYT-SK Silent Microswitch Joystick is pretty good, but once i got a hold of the Crown I’m a fan!

I’m confused. Is this “V2” everyone is talking about modified by Crown? I don’t get the discussion, who is the modder? I thought it was just a purple crown 309. @Agieze is sort right about “hidden specs” in that all its changes could be measured and replicated. Data sheets can tell us everything useful about the switches too. OF, pre travel and such.

@armi0024, What “V1” are you talking about in this post? I’ve no idea what joystick you mentioned. Is it something that has been mentioned in this thread? I have no problem reading through them again.

also what happened when he disclosed the mods and tricks? The Golden Fanta has literally every aspect of it(besides maybe your personal bat/ball top) documented. Shaft diameter and weight, actuator diameter and weight, the tension of the grommet down to the 5A and the Fanta body has been measured before.

@ProgressiveBalance
Crown never really came up with the “Helpme” lever on their own, then renamed to 309 Helpme upon official release. It’s a Korean modder who fiddled around probably with a 303 body and came up with several modifications for the said body but also for the actuator etc, either on his own or in collaboration with Crown/Samducksa. It is unclear if the modder is “Helpme” or if it was customized specially for a given Korean Tekken champion, I missed that part and don;t recall ever having read the info.
For the sake of comparing what is going on, look at the unreleased “Infiltration lever”, Infiltration participated in the testing/developing of his own signature lever, but the hardware being this time more than just a mod, the name of the product designer was known since Crown decided to have the public follow the last steps from the prototype to final production model, with plethora of pics showing each and every individual part of the assembly : the designer for SDL301/SDL301DX is Yo-O (who posts regularly on various blogs, forums etc, updating info as soon as possible, which is unheard of in terms of conceiving a commercial lever design.)

Back to the 309,when Crown released the 309 Helpme (either CWL-309Helpme-K-KMS-ST35 or CWL-309Helpme-K-JMS-ST35) , it was what is now called “309Helpme V1”.
K stands for the korean collar, KMS/JMS Gersung(Korean) or Panasonic(Japanese) switches and ST35 for the 35A silicone grommet. A ref most Korean webstores do not present to consumers for unknown reasons.

V2 comes from the same modder, according to what has been explained, who did the very first Helpme everyone knows now. 309 is the series number which corresponds to the body (except the collar) that has been chosen for 2 other iterations for now: “chopped collar” 309MJ & collarless 309M.
The battop color does not come from the modder though, it has been voted online at Ruliweb for the next color to figure in the Crown/Samducksa catalog, but concerning the dimensions, that may be eventually something new (eventually, needs confirmation)

It may be confusing for some since the 309MJ has already been presented by Crown and Korean reviewers as a form of Helpme “V2” without ever mentioning the version number of course, since the collar has been revised (chopped collar) and the grommet revised as well, with a lower shore hardness (25A instead of 35A). K-collar 303 has also been revised as MJ but still then, it never was with the reference “V2”, just MJ. Collar-less 309, the 309M, is also another revised version made on purpose for many stick companies ( and consumers) who need to save space in the fightstick case and avoid the traditional Korean high collar. That’s the version Wazwuz received instead of the 309Mj he ordered from IST.**

Armi0024 in his presentation post claimed the Helpme 309 V2 body was V1 stock Korean arcade parts discussion

but now claims the body has been modified too

being very busy at his booth, he probably didn;t have the time to check these details .

IMHO, the modder refusing to say what has been modded (without giving values out of course, which is normal) is either untrue or plain retarded if it’s the case. It is counterprodutcive to refuse to explain what has been modified and why. Generally modders will say something like "we put the switches closer together after having sanded flush the protrusions (the protrusions are where the the switch locating pins are) , we also installed a switch plate for precision, then we used a slightly reduced diameter actuator in a wear resistant material, with a special profile that differs from stock. Actuator surface kisses the switch levers, there is practically no gap, so no wobbly dead zone. We used a thicker shaft diameter to reduce throw at the collar for better play and a lighter battop for comfort. We put medium force panasonic switches instead of Gersung for better sensitivity also. We kept stock XshoreA hardness grommet from Z company " . This way no measurements are given out but at least the CLIENT is INFORMED of what the mod is all about in terms of feel, throw etc.
The secretive “just buy it, it’s a rare custom unit hand tuned to special specs” motto just sounds plain wrong. Is the throw larger, smaller? How do the switches feel? Are they ultra stiff A4 or softer A2? What’s going on with the actuator and switch placement? etc etc.

Phantomnaut bought a unit at EVO if you followed the thread a few posts above, and according to his post he states there is a switch mod similar to Kaze (up switch is different from the other 3) , and minute changes to the other parts (easy guess: actuator and shaft, perhaps also grommet), the thing is he probably doesn;t walk around with a caliper and a shore hardness device so it’s impossible for people who go to a convention to give out measurements on the go, don;t worry, the specs will be given out soon enough (if worth the trouble ) on this forum after being tested and measured .