Yes you can, you are looking at possibly getting the Mini Breakout for a non-soldering approach.
The 5v comes from the USB wire that goes to the console so you could take that and GND and pass it to the pcb by cutting ONLY THE VCC AND GND PARTS of the cable and screwing the cut parts to the corresponding terminals in the Mini adapter.
Cheap example below
USB CABLE======PCB
USB CABLE====//KMINIAdapter//=====PCB
Then cut and strip the ribbon cables that come from the button adapter to the PCB and repeat same process, one cut end into a terminal on the adapter and the other cut end into the mirrored terminal.
Thank you ! I am happy to know thatās possible.
But I am a little bit confused with your answer, Iāam sorry.
Do you mean I have to take both 5v AND ground from the USB before the PCB ?
Or do I have to pick only the 5v from the same USB, and the ground from the PCB ?
And yes, I own a mini breakout, which will make everything easier
This is getting a bit deep into the theory as I only know from working with the things but from what i understand in electronics GND is GND no matter where it is ( @āJasen Hicksā @armi0024@Vicko throw me a lifeline here XD) but it seems odd to grab VCC from one place and GND from another
Snag VCC (+5V) from the USB RED pin (thatās incoming +5V) and GND (0V) from the USB Black pin (thatās the incoming GND). No matter where you pull GND and VCC from on the board, they are all the same. GND = GND = GND on a PCB and VCC = VCC = VCC on a PCB.
Iāve got a Kaimana Khameleon connected to my Brook UFB using the 20-pin and 4-pin headers, and 12 pele leds with adapter boards and wire harnesses. When I plug in the wire harness from the Khameleon to the first adapter board and led, I get a constant blue light from the led, regardless of any button presses. If I switch the wire adapter upside down on the led, I get a constant red light from the led. Are these colors supposed to result from first time setup?
I can program the Khameleon with the Khameleon Web Kit code successfully, but I still get the the blue/red colors from the led anyway, even though my code should produce other colors. Do you think itās an issue with the Pele leds themselves, or the Khameleon, or what?
The Peles should go in the single connector side, the two ātopā connectors are meant to act like the Kaimana Jās connectors with one being Data In and the other Data Out, make sure you are following a Kaimana->Din->dout->din pattern by looking at the label in the adapter PCB.
Another thing you should be aware of is that the code in the Brightstick website is meant for Jasens Panzer 2.0 which has 2 indexes per button like the Kaimana J2s, whereas the Peles work like the Original Js where each button has 1 address.
Ah, thanks JRDIBBS. I did figure out that I had the input going into the Dout instead of the Din (not sure how I didnāt see that before lol). I didnāt know that the Peles only use single addresses though; Iāll change my code.
Bit late replying, but FYI worked a charm, stick with kaimana is working a treat now (although do need to get a shorter shaft cover apparently, but thats just a slight cosmetic thing).
Does anyone know of any guides for learning how to start programming the animations? Iāve got no experience in such things, and while I know there are some links to example animations here and there, Iām not sure i know enough to break them apart and turn them into other things etc.
Awesome! One of my goals is to get a basic animations guide going, my guide HERE is more of an explanation of the Kaimana system and may have some outdated info but it may spark your imagination!
Sweet, Iāll give that a read through and see if it helps. Doesnāt help that Iām kinda between mains right now, so not sure exactly what kind of animations/inputs Iāll want to go with - very good chance Iāll main Akuma once released though, so may well start with some Ryu animations as I think there are examples of those already. Then can work my way to a Raging Demon animation perhaps? xD
Hey all,
not sure if anyone of you has had a chance to play with circuits.io
itās a great little utility from the good people at Autodesk.
you can pretty much set up an Arduino / Kaimana and use that as your playground which is pretty cool
here is an example with 2 buttons and 2 ws2812b pixels.
Iāve been off the radar lately, still working on the custom double kaimana whammy and built a programmer from an extra arduino i had laying around, now whenever a board freaks on me I can reset it to factory!
looking forward to seeing your work! sounds like itāll be pretty crazy!
Having a slight issue with my hollow shaft balltop, its got the bigger thread on it, its the one that comes with the PA LED balltop kit, and is just a thread drilled into the plastic of the ball - not a metal thread inserted like usual sanwa balltops etc.
Anyway, it doesnāt seem to stay put, its always loose and always twisting while I play, but if I try to tighten it too much it starts to destory the thread.
The only place in the UK that sells hollow ball tops is ArcadeWorldUK, and I got in touch with them and their hollow balltop is apparently a 6mm thread and not a 10mm thread like the hollow shaft Iāve got.
Are there 10mm metal threaded clear ball tops out there? I donāt really want to resort to gluing it on, as itād be a bitch to take off again >_<
I have one also but I tighten it until its snug and a bit more, and it stays on pretty well, then again I use it lightly so milage may vary on these. Hot glue may be a solution as itās easily removable.
I think the balltop hits the shaft and doesnt allow you to go any further is this true in your case?
