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Can someone help me? I’d really appreciate it. I was following this guide, https://youtu.be/mKty1h_pj54 .

I get an error every time I try to verify the code. Even when I haven’t changed anything yet.

"Arduino: 1.6.9 (Mac OS X), Board: “Arduino Leonardo”

Build options changed, rebuilding all
In file included from /Users/(my_computer’sname)/Downloads/panzer2kaimana/panzer2kaimana.ino:33:0:
kaimana.h:152: error: ‘prog_uint8_t’ does not name a type
const prog_uint8_t sinusoid[257] PROGMEM = {
^
kaimana.h:176: error: ‘prog_uint8_t’ does not name a type
const prog_uint8_t colorCycleData[] PROGMEM = {
^
exit status 1
’prog_uint8_t’ does not name a type

This report would have more information with
"Show verbose output during compilation"
option enabled in File -> Preferences."

Use Arduino 1.6.5

Thanks I guess I over looked that bit. It’s verifying now.

The only other problem is that when I plug the kaimana in my mac computer opens keyboard set up and freezes my mouse.

Right now the tools section doesn’t show the right ports but I suppose the solution to the keyboard setup problem would fix that too?

Hello !

Do you know if I can plug different sorts of leds this way ?

  • Kaimana mini/Breakout > Pele (with Kaimana adapter) > J2s > Pele (with Kaimana adapter)
    The wires provided at PAS doesn’t allow such a thing, but I wonder if I can do this by cutting and soldering the plugs/wires.

Also, I was very surprised we can only use 3" wires between two J2. The 9" doesn’t have the good connector for led>led, only for board>led.

I posted several messages to PAS but no answers so far…

Thanks

I am not too sure. I have never of this problen and I do not have any experience with mac.

@bibione please see this video where I hook up an RGB balltop using kaimana adaptor. I had to cut some of the older style kaimana cables, but it worked quite well. I would recommend putting both the peles and kaimana adaptor at the start of the chain to simplify everything a bit more.

Thanks Fundando !
So I will go with Kaimana Breakout > Peles > J2s.
It will make me a do a zig-zag in my panel, but if it works and as you say it’s more simple, let’s do this ! :wink: Hopefully I ordered some spare wires !

FYI these are the wire types you need

they offer different lengths

Yes, this is the one I have.
Works well for Kaimana adapter to J2s, but not J2 to J2. I had to to make a good one using these :
paradisearcadeshop.com/paradise-kaimana-led-controller-and-accessories/1721-paradise-kaimana-j2-3-wire-harness.html
paradisearcadeshop.com/paradise-kaimana-led-controller-and-accessories/1722-paradise-kaimana-j2-9-pcb-connection.html

By the way, what is the proper way to plug the Kaimana pele jumper harness onto the pele ? I mean, first, the black plug of the harness can be placed on 2 sides, and second, the pele has two sets of pins, what are the good one ? If it makes sense to you :wink: :

Thanks

ok guys about to order today

want to make sure i have everything i need for LED goodness

http://i.imgur.com/DwS12aw.png

does this look right? anything im missing for the joystick or buttons?

That looks like everything you need as long you have some electrical wire at home to hookup to your kaimana breakout. Which control PCB are you using?

Electrical wire?? i dont have anything here.

I have a Razer Atrox PCB, so it should be simple if i remember right

As long as your pcb is common ground and you have enough wire length on your buttons and joystick you should be fine with the list you posted.

@fundando

okay switched to a brooks ufb lol, does this look good now??

The problem I see with your strategy will be in wiring the Mini+breakout board to the Brook UFB since you you mentioned that you don’t have any electrical wire. As far as I can tell, the Mini is connected to the breakout board via the Mini’s 20-pin female header. This means you’d have to connect the Mini to UFB via screw terminals, solder, or a 20-pin cable.

Another approach, depending on how Guide, Start, Select are set up on the Atrox, omit the breakout board, get a 20-pin header pre-soldered on the UFB, and the 20-pin wiring harness: http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/wire-and-power/1664-20-pin-100-fight-stick-harness.html Mini would sit on top of UFB, wiring harness sits on top of 20-pin male header.

okay so the harness connects to the mini which is seated on the 20-pin male header of the ufb then connects to???

i need a wiring diagram so bad lol

Take out the paradise breakout and make sure you order the brook ufb with the 20 pin soldered headers. I would ask someone in the atrox thread on how to wire the buttons that are on the control panel. I don’t too much experience with commercial sticks besides old SE’s and TE’s. If you want to be sure you can go completely solderless going this route you are better off working in a custom case.

I have videos on how to wire all this stuff on my youtube. Check my sig if you are interested.

@fundando Oh wow! ive been watching your videos in preperation, so okay, i have everything i need then, i just have two mroe questions

In your video you state that the kaimana adapter was mislabelled, do you know if that is still the case?

and also, instead of a barrier strip is scotchloks okay?

Thank you so much i appreciate all of your work!

I have a issue with my kaimana mini.
I need to plug the usb on it if I want it to work. The usb power is not good enough from my usb controller (Xin-Mo dual player). Is it a problem to have it plugged all the time ? Should I pick a 5v from somewhere else in my computer (molex or another usb) and if so, do I have to plug a new ground ?
I know someone has the same issue but the solution was given via PM…

Is there a way to read the code existing in my Kaimana ? For the moment, I just want to re-assign the leds as there are not working properly. This will be my first step before going further in coding… I don’t want to mess by uploading a code that is not working with my button configuration.

Also, does anybody know if it is possible to make some kind of DIY kaimana working for more than 15 button inputs ? I wish I had one for all my 22 buttons and my 2 joysticks…

Thanks

I do not think they have produced a new batch yet so I it is probably still mislabeled.

If you want to use scotchloks it will be fine. THe only thing that matters is a good connection.

I finished up Hitbox Code today that works with the PFS2 System of Systems and the new Kaimana J’s. I’ll be working on BrightStick to add the Hitbox GUI as well, but no guarantees that it will be done before EVO. Here’s the link:

Panzer2Kaimana: HitBox

Here’s the order assumed:

UP
K1
K2
K3
K4
P4
P3
P2
P1
RIGHT
DOWN
LEFT
SELECT
HOME
START

Total LEDs = 30.

This is calculated by 15 buttons with 2 5050 LEDs per Kaimana J or on the System of Systems board. Always start at 0 when programming, so you will notice in kaimana_custom.h it starts with 0 and ends at 29; this means 30 total LEDs.