Neo pixel rings are fun, but they do require a better understanding of coding. Sorry it’s crazy getting ready for combo breaker I will be more available this week though.
No worries. In fact, your code pretty much solved everything. Turns out there is a NeoPixel style ring with eight LEDs instead of twelve. That should work perfectly in place of a J2 HitBox setup since they both would have eight LEDs for the directions.
How do I add code to make the buttons fade instead of switching off? I know the software comes with some example code to use, but I don’t know where to place it.
Thus far I’ve managed to boost the random color amount to 15 and implement a tourney mode of sorts (hit three buttons, lights all black for 2hours. Haha)
I can’t figure out how to make them fade.
I’d appreciate your help.
If anyone else would like to chime in I’m all ears.
My Video for the Kaimana Breakout for Paradise Arcade Shop. This will also work for Kaimana Khameleon Using A 20 Pin Cable.
What’s the amperage draw for this board, each LED and a Brook Universal Fighting Board together? I can’t find any information. I have a set, and a few technical setbacks(i fucked up my Kaimana board, don’t ask), and I’m about to pick up another. I’ve got a few ideas for mods, but before I get that far, I’d like to know how much amperage I’ve got to work with.
Inrush current of the Kaimana plus board is about 470ma. So you don’t have much to work with.
The Cavalier Mannitude lab hooked it up and measured all of the current over time to determine this. I think on average its about 200mA but I would have to double check my data.
@KnyghtFall this would have to be an animation or loop added to fade them, not hard to do. Probably better added to the animations file so the main loop can continue to run.
@gummo has some code he was working on that increased intensity with more buttons pushes.
@KnyghtFall
@armi0024
I just picked up one of these at combo breaker and have been toying with fade myself.
So far it hasn’t been terribly successful. I’ve never coded before, but I learn quickly. I agree you’d have to put the code outside of the main loop otherwise any delays you add to fade with will pause the main code and prevent other button presses.
Current default setup is no LED’s on when idle, random color when pressed, turn off when released. I’m trying to fade out when released instead of just turning off.
I’ve got my fade code in the animations file, and have been testing with P1 to start. I’m using the fade code from the arduino examples, and modified it to LED_P1 which was defined to be pin 0 as far as I can tell. I’ve commented out the part that turns off the led when the button is released, and replaced it with a call to the fade code. Unfortunately, the LED remains lit when the button is released instead of fading out as expected.
Not entirely sure what I’m missing.
Ok, so I understand now the default fade code arduino provides assumes a single led connected directly to the pin. However, in this instance, it’s a data point connected to multiple led’s.
So i’m trying to use a simple 3 stage fade as a test but it’s only updating the first part of the code, and I don’t know how I’d apply it to affect the randomly selected color.
Spoiler
int FadeP1(void) {
kaimana.setLED (LED_P1,255,0,0);
kaimana.updateALL();
delay( 30 );
kaimana.setLED (LED_P1,127,0,0);
kaimana.updateALL();
delay( 30 );
kaimana.setLED (LED_P1,0,0,0);
kaimana.updateALL();
}
The led just stays red after it’s pushed. I know it’s updating the first time because if I change it to a different color or intensity it will change accordingly, but it won’t fade. It will only stop at the first line and not progress to the others.
Really difficult to start this from scratch. There doesn’t seem to be any good resources for specifically the kaimana board, and it’s hard to start coding when you’ve got something done up in a streamlined digital fashion as your baseline.
So two questions, let’s get the first one out the way.
I’m a bullshit walking disaster factory and managed to snap the USB port off of my Kaimana Mini. Clean break. I think I can resolder it.
… But those are tiny goddamned leads on a surface mount part. I also don’t own a resolder flow oven or really feel comfortable trying to reflow the connector back on. I’ll do it if it’s necessary though.
What other options do I have for programming this thing? I see there’s a six pin header, but there’s no documentation about … really anything that isn’t in this thread. It looks like that can be used with an ICSP from what I can tell from earlier in this thread. Is this true? What’s the pin orientation? Do we have any sort of Wiki with any of this information? The forum search engine is awful when you’re looking for nitpicky technical details.
Second, I picked up an RGB LED from Paradise as part of this whole enterprise, and an RGB LED adapter. Now the product description says that it needs resistors, but I thought the adapter had resistors? Do I need to go lower to hit 3.3v or something? Again, none of this is documented. I really think we could benefit from a Wiki or something.
@Taiki
While at combo breaker I saw them using an alternate connector using a ribbon cable and an adapter of some sort. I know it exists but I don’t know if it’s available for purchase anywhere, or if it operates in the same capacity.
is it the kaimana adaptor? if so this should help.
Is this for updating boards or is this for LED into sticks? If it’s for updating boards, I am sure that’s using an in-circuit serial programmer. Which leads me to wonder what the board orientation is. I’ll pick up an ICSP programmer and figure it out.
Yeah. Thanks! I’ll recheck my wiring in a bit.
Me again! Seeing as Paradise Arcade are being decidedly unhelpful via email I’m wondering if the clever folks here on the tech talk forums can help?
Long story short, new to modding, I emailed PA before placing my order to make sure I had everything for an 8 button + joystick kaimana mini setup. They said I did have everything. Watched the video above about hooking up the Joystick, found out I needed the kaimana adapter which i was never told about. I live in the UK, and according to the site it will cost me about $60 to ship a part that only costs about $1.
Is there any other way of creating the setup with the LED? Or am I shit out of luck? Because as much as I want to “finish” my stick, I’m not paying $60 for a $1 part that was a screw up at their end.
@Kuniku
I’ve also not been getting replies, I imagine they must be extremely busy. They don’t seem the type to just ignore people.
As for your predicament, what all did you order to start with? I imagine you have the led harness and kit for the stick, and the kaimana mini? So you’re just missing the breakout board?
As far as i’m aware, the breakout board is entirely unnecessary, it’s just a convenient adapter to connect everything together. It will be quite a bit of extra work without it, as you have to do a bunch of cable splicing, but it should still be doable.
Unless you’re referring to using standard leds without built in digital functions. Then you might need the adapter and be out of luck. Though, if that part is only $1, perhaps you could make your own version of it? I’m sure if you’ve spent a pile of money already paradisearcade could probably help you out there. If they replied to e-mails. Which I still think is due to being busy or illness or something.
I started with the kaimana mini 8 button kit, so kaiamana mini, breakout board (which I didn’t need as i was using the Brook UFB) 8 Kaimana J2’s and the wiring harness. I added on the hollow shaft, balltop, RGB LED and 2 spare Kaimana J2’s just in case. Wasn’t told about needing the adaptor which apparently is needed for indexing or something.
Depending on how comfortable you are soldering, you might be able to cut traces on one of your spare LEDs, and solder a connector for the RGB LED.
edit:
my answer bothered me for some reason. If you’re handy with a soldering iron, if you can find a World Semi 2811S LED PWM controller chip, you can wire up your own adaptor.
You’ll need a 120Ω resistor for the output off of each line, if I’m looking at the specs correctly. I’d double check the output voltage going to each LED and figuring it out from there.
The WS2811 chip is what you need to turn a dumb RGB LED into a smart Indexible one.
You need 1x 100 ohm resistor on the VDD line coming into the chip (its 5V tolerant).
You need a bypass capacitor on the VDD line (.1uF is more than sufficient).
You need a 33 ohm resistor on the DATA IN line
You need the WS2811 chip as well
Factor in some tiny wire, part costs, the time, and likelihood it will look sort of hacky… well, you decide.
and call them on the phone to arrange some sort of better shipping. The computer is only so smart and shipping methods are usually the dumbest part of a shopping cart. USPS First Class to the UK is likely $10-15.
Also, get some of this stuff to help you out:
A couple of these: http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/paradise-kaimana-led-controller-and-accessories/1721-paradise-kaimana-j2-3-wire-harness.html?search_query=kaimana&results=42
Get some of these to make wiring easier (splicing wires is easier than soldering to boards): http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/paradise-kaimana-led-controller-and-accessories/1071-paradise-kaimana-3-wire-harness.html?search_query=kaimana&results=42
Oh, and The RGB JLF product listing has an install video here on the page. You can watch it via the link here. I’m pretty sure it covers the fact you need something to control the RGB LED; to most people that would at least raise a question to ask. Its also been covered in this thread.
And just in case you only got the upgraded shaft to fit into your JLF, http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/shaft-kits/553-short-jlf-rgb-shaft-kit.html?search_query=RGB+LED&results=33, it also says the RGB controller and power source is not included. Coincidently, there is also the wiki: http://support.paradisearcadeshop.com/support/solutions/articles/14000026583-rgb-stick-install-for-kaimana-mini-kameleon
I won’t say PAS steered you wrong or right, since the conversation wasn’t shared, but there is a bit of research that needs to be done for these types of mods. Most of the questions/problems you have mentioned have been covered in this thread at least once.
The install video went up about 2 months after I placed my order, so that is why I only just know about the need for the adaptor. The conversation was basically me listing out everything in my basket and asking if that was everything I needed for 8 buttons and joystick - they said yes. I’ve emailed them about the fact I need an adaptor or an alternative solution several times, and all I got was “you can solder the LED to the board” - which i don’t think I can, as it wouldn’t be indexed. I’ve not had a reply since (that was a few weeks ago) which is why I’m here now. I also pointed out the shipping cost issue and they’ve not mentioned offering a cheaper alternative, but then they’d need to reply to an email to do that…
Worst case scenario I’m coming to the US on holiday in September, so I might just order the missing bits to my hotel.