Buttons feel squashy and joystick is just all over he place. Not what I expected. If I mod it will be another 70$. Should I just buy the qwanba dragon? If not, what buttons are the absolute best buttons that are stiff and not sloppy and the joystick also?
Qanba Dragon uses the exact same parts as the TE2. There’s no “absolute best” when it comes to arcade parts, but if you want something stiffer get a seimitsu joystick and buttons. I recommend the LS-56 for the joystick. You can pick whichever buttons you want; they’re all stiffer than Sanwa for the most part.
Awesome, thanks!!!
There is a fasten type and a regular and MS plate or VF plate. Don’t mean to be so clueless but I really don’t know where to start. I have been looking for a document that gives me all the names and brands of the stock components in my TE2+, but haven’t been able to find it.
You can always buy a stiffer spring for your JLF. Those are relatively cheap. For buttons you can go with the Seimitsus or what I did is upgraded the stock micro switches with Cherry MX clear switches https://paradisearcadeshop.com/obs-mx-button-system/1626-obs-mx-drop-in-kit.html
Buy a stiffer spring for the jlf stick in your TE2, it’ll cost like $6 including shipping. Get a 2lb spring if you like stiff tension. Sanwa buttons are the best, but you can get Seimitsu buttons if you want. I have some seimitsu buttons and I can’t stand them, so they’re sitting in a box and not in a stick.
Yo guys thanks for the beta. Really appreciate it!
Seimitsu PS-14-G (snap-in, opaque, flat-top plunger)
Seimitsu PS-14-GN (screw-in, opaque, convex-top plunger)
Seimitsu PS-14-K (snap-in, translucent, flat-top plunger)
Seimitsu PS-14-KN (screw-in, translucent, convex-top plunger)
These are your best options for “manly” buttons.
For the JLF, get THIS and THIS.
For a new joystick, go LS-40-01 (or go home) 
P.S. If you go for the LS-40-01, make sure it has the SS mounting plate.
Am considering getting a seimetsu for my TE2+ as I want a smaller deadzone and play a lot of shmups in addition to GG these days. I’ve read great things about the ls-40, but I’m wondering what is the difference between the ls-40 and ls-40-01?
the 01 has a pcb around the switches so u can use the 5 pin connector. it regular one will have you manually connect the switches with quick disconnects. So get the 01 for the convenience of being able to use a 5 pin connector
For seimitsu sticks, the -01 for the model indicates that the microswitches are soldered onto the PCB where you will need a 5 pin harness to connect the joystick to the board. The regular LS-40 model requires .187" QDs to connect to you board, so if you’re looking for a drop in replacement but the LS-40-01
Awesome, thanks guys.
And if you go 01 and are currently using a JLF or Hayabusa, remember to install the 5pin “upside down” 
Upside with the pins? Wow!? Doing it now and I’m glad I read this. Hopefully your serious. Also trying to change the spring in my Sanwa joystick, is there a forum on how to get the c clip off. Can’t seem to figure it out, and I don’t want to break it
The idea is to use a small flathead screwdriver (or some needlenose pliers, if you have ones that are thin enough to fit into the little gap on the clip) to pry it off. The problem is that it has a tendency to fly off across the room when you do that, especially before you get the hang of getting it halfway off and then pulling it from there. I would suggest doing it with the joystick and your hands inside a plastic bag or something, so that it’ll just end up in that bag if it pops off like that. Be careful getting it back on as well, some people have problems popping it back on straight and end up pushing it at an angle until it pops off and they lose it. If you notice in these videos, both guys push the actuator (the black part that actually pushes in the switches) in towards the top of the joystick, because when the actuator and spring aren’t pushing against the clip, it’s much less likely to shoot off.
(Clip starts coming off around 1:55)
(0:55)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=La7-DAEgYds
My two cents, as somebody who had the same problem with stock Sanwa parts and then spent a month tweaking it with springs and actuators before finally replacing it, is that you would be best served by a Seimitsu joystick. I am a fan of the LS-56, haven’t bought an LS-40 but some people whose opinions I respect a lot swear by it, so either would probably work better for your needs than a JLF. Seimitsu buttons also sound like they would be more to your liking, although I’ve found that after a long time of just playing on Seimitsu buttons, I don’t actually mind Sanwa buttons as much as I used to. You may adjust to the buttons without all that much trouble, if you don’t want to drop $25-30 on a new set of them. You might also consider just replacing 6 of your 8 buttons if you want to save a couple of bucks, since you’re likely to use the first 3 of each row much more than the last ones.
You guys are crazy. The LS-32 is the best joystick Seimitsu made. But I’d go with a LS-38 because it is the LS-32 but has a stiffer spring. With that LS-40 I think you’re stuck with only a square gate. If you play shotos or any character with HCF/B or QCF/B, you’re gonna wanna switch to a Octo gate at some point.
Octo-gate smockto-gate…
Is there a knack to taking out the 5pin on the TE2+? Mine seems really stuck and worried about breaking it…
EDIT: SS plate will fit the TE 2+?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FfIyiVEtGZ8
This guy says to keep the pin on the left side, but if I do that, it means the screws won’t fit in the four corners. I could put in 2 screws in different holes (one top middle, one bottom middle) while keeping the 5pins on the left, but definitely not 4.
EDIT: Seen you have to unscrew the SS plate, turn it 90 degrees and reattach it. All finished now, but I lost one screw in the process. Now to take it for a test run!
EDIT 2:Arghhh it only move 4 ways. Fixed the yellow restrictor thing and now working like a charm. Feels great~