Just another Vewlix cab - x24's cab using Donovan Myers' plans

Loving what Donovan Myers did with his wooden Vewlix TE cab, I used his sketchup files to have one made for myself.

Note that I didn’t do the woodworking on this one, I had it done by a local professional cabinet maker. I used the sketchup files to make the plans into PDF (available in Donovan’s site). This made it easy for the guy to cut the pieces. This was a very unique project for him but he said the very detailed plans made it easier, and cheaper to boot.

Since I didn’t have enough tools or even enough skills to cut MDF like this, I searched around Craigslist for a woodworker to see if this can be done cheaply. I’ve gotten quotes from local wood workers and even those professional arcade cabinet makers reaching $800 and above referencing just the pictures. I was then able to negotiate a quote from a local cabinet maker cheap enough to make me decide (and by me I meant my wife :wgrin:) to have one done. His quote was around the same $800 price point (assembled, finished and delivered) but with me providing detailed plans, only having the woodwork done, no finish or paint, and doing only a local pickup, brought it down to $500. Decent enough for me at least. You might save more money if you know someone. Here are the pics he sent me when they were done:

It took him about a month or so to build it. Rather long for a small job like this but he basically just did it on the side since he’s normally on-site working on cabinet contracts. I wasn’t in a rush anyway.

I had him make it into three major pieces and be assembled and disassembled. This way, if I need to move the cab, I can just take it apart and lift each myself. I also added leveling feet just so it would be easier to me to move it around the floor, plus to help keep it from rocking in case the base is not level.

For paint, I used Kilz2 odorless primer/sealer, Rustoleum ready made black paint, and some white wall paint I had lying around the house. I then used Minwax semi-gloss lacquer to finish it, pretty much what Donovan Myers used. I personally did an ok paintjob, although the pictures show it nicer than it looks. I guess having it spraypainted would make it better. After applying the lacquer it looked good enough for me. Since I am going to use Round2 TE sticks on it, I painted the control panel all black.

I’ll be installing the TE stick next and also installing a 22" TV for now, until the budget for a 32" comes up. I’ll probably finish the panel covers when the 32" is installed.

I don’t have a lot of build pics since I didn’t do the woodwork myself but some pics not posted here are in a flickr set: click me!

Looking sweet so far

Hey man would it be possible to get those plans from you, I can prolly come up with the money to get the done but I just don’t have the wood working skills. The economy is in the shitter out here in South Carolina so I may be able to get this done on the cheap.

Instead of editing out my tard im just gonna laugh at get the done.

Donovan Myers|Street Fighter IV, Fight Stick Related Projects, and other Arcade stuff

Looks like I forgot to add the link to my post. Here’s the direct link to Donovan’s page where he posted the PDF plans:

PDF of Vewlix Tournament Edition Plans|Donovan Myers

sent u a pm…

I thought I’d update this thread and finally give it closure.

After about 2 years, I have finally “finished” my cab. I actually started painting it myself and it started to look good. Around September 2010, our basement got flooded due to a nasty storm. Unfortunately I had intentionally left parts of the cab unpainted, like the inside of the box and the bottom, which eventually grew mold due to the moisture in the basement. After cleaning and a quick touch up of sealing primer to hopefully not have mold again, I noticed that the MDF had started to puff up on certain places, making the wood seams visible even with the paint. I had then decided to send it back to the builder to have it painted. Might as well spend some money to have someone do it who knows what they’re doing.

This ended up being a decision I had to regret for about a year or so, as that’s how long it took him to do it. But that’s another story.

Anyway, I have finally finished it to the best I can have it to a point where it’s functional and probably in good-enough status. So here are some pics:

Since I was using R2 TE’s I was going for a R2 theme, hence the black “sides” of the control panel. Donovan Myers did his white since he used R1 TE’s. Pardon the plastic on the TV, it’s still there, as if it was new, even though it’s about 2 years old. It’s a Viera L32X24, not as good as an X1 but it’s ok.

4 speakers FTW! I really wanted to look of having 4 speakers much like the original Vewlix. Those are 3.5" auto speakers and luckily I had enough space under the TV to install the bottom ones. The picture in Amazon showed them with grills but it turns out the 3.5" models didn’t come with one. I then bought the grills from chokes.com. I was supposed to get those with the red lining but they didn’t stock them anymore in the size I needed.
The front panels are covered with chalkboard vinyl. I got them from a crafts store and they don’t seem to have a strong enough adhesive so there are some areas where it’s starting to come off. I’m still debating on what to do with the marquee cover.

The speakers are connected to Logitech X-240’s. The original speakers were 8 ohms so I wired the 4 ohm car speakers in series for both left and right channels. Sound quality is great and it’s plenty loud even before it reaches the halfway point.
Also, the R2TE with the clear smoke balltop is equipped with a Spark. I’ll be doing the same thing with the second controller as I tried to play on it and I got used to the optical one and my execution suffered on the regular.

Upskirt shot of the cp. I’ve been thinking about a way to mount the controllers without having the screws pop out from under the control panel. Inspired by IKEA, I got these allen sleeve nuts to have my semi flush mounting. The bolts are installed from inside the controller, held by nuts and lock washers to keep the bolt from moving. The allen sleeve nuts help me screw the controller down from outside the controller and also not have any mounting protrusions that I can feel with my knees. I don’t have a pic of how it looks like from inside the controller but just imagine it’s the same concept as how sex bolts work.

I guess all that’s left will be probably some move lists and other trim. Although I might leave this as is for a while. The side covers are still missing. I have created some out of white foamboard and it works for now. I also have to consider making holes for the TV’s IR receiver.

Thanks for looking.

Great stuff!! Can you share me the ArtWork plz, I am building one cabinet following your PDF, and I can’t find the artwork, specially of the top, I struggle with the corners, thanks

wow talk about necrobump. I actually don’t have any artwork on mine so I couldn’t help you there.

Sorry… I just couldn’t help myself

Hi, Donovan Myers site is unreachable, anybody have any copies of his Super Street Fighter IV: Arcade Edition English Move Lists?

It’s time for the centurion to appear once again…

NO.