Joystick mailing strategy, saving money

I remember when sending the joystick he originally bulit for me i wanted fixed and “me modded” (lf you don’t know, look up my history on SRK)… i spent $100 for ground shipping. I’ said I’ll pay for shipping back if i choose how i ship it. ( It’s my money that’s why I’ll save it )

It’s complete enough where it will work with one i feature i designed working for Paradise Cthulhu fight PCBs, and an easy-in easy-out db37 system. But there are many parts remaining fir future stages .

My guess is the cheapest way to go is to make smaller independent shipments.

First the joystick has to be whole. I don’t know how to assemble it if it’s “flattened for shipping”. Everything else doesn’t matter as long as it all comes with reasinable insurance in case of lost, stolen, or damaged-in-transit mail.

I thing i did find the best strategy when shipping a loose wii console for an $8 flat rate priority nylar mailer. withbmy original shipment, I noticed the lengths above 12 in (around 30 cm). Is premiumized more than smaller lengths in two ways. Obe way is volume penalties. The other is weight is also considered because it’s flat rate ineligible.

I guess if the joystick it fits in a flat rate box, then do it. Otherwise put it in a box that barely covers the whole volume and put nothing else in it and insure it for the value of the raw joystick. Then any extra partsb can be shipped separately.

The parts I’m receiving are the Paradise Cthulhu, 2 Genesis pads, a an intellivision flashback pad,. A coleco standard control, a coleco super action controller, three 5200 controllers. Standard Jaguar pad,. A cheap 3rd Party 3DO pad, an authorized third party Nintendo switch wired Joy pad, an Edladdin Coleco fight stick PCB, a digital db15 PC controller… NES style, a basic RJ45 wire tester, (< $10, not >$100) and a whole bunch of connectors like db37 males and females,. Db15 males and females,. Jaguar style males and females, DB9 males and females,. Solderable 3.5 mm females, many 3.5 mm male to male patch cords.

I told him if I’m paying for shipping back, I’m deciding how it’s shipped. So unless he wants to pay for shipping wait until Tuesday.

Does the strategy I described sound like the best combination of price and speed, especially if price is the highest priority?

Finally for stuff that’s not specific to 12 digit keypads would most SRK stick builders understand the concept of starting with discrete inputs and renaubing discrete and letting future equipment encode it, sight unseen? Meaning do I have to ship the joystick to them to get them to understand what needs to be done with the other parts? I hope some of them are smart enough to do so, and chances are probably someone is, maybe many somebodies.

Because most of the things now I need are before the encoder, Which is the least messy way to manipulate joystick and button mapping.

I just have to tell him or her the DB37 code system I’m using, ie what pin corresponds to what function joystick, mail him or her the actual connectors and give instructions.