I know there are a good handful of off-the-shelf mods available for the JLF - the silent mod, the Cherry mod. All involve an additional harness, some less-than-stock implementation. I wanted to see how I could mod the TP-MA while keeping things as absolutely stock as possible. The solution: desolder the stock Omron switches, and mod a non-stock microswitch (in this case, older gen Happ Cherry’s) to mount to the TP-MA in identical fashion. Below are the details.
Next, prep the switches. Tin the connectors at the switch. I used 22 ga. solid wire to create the “posts” that get soldered to the TP-MA and create the structural adhesion of the switches to the board. Some thicker wire, like an 18 ga. solid or possibly even up to a 14 ga. solid, will fill the through hole to a greater degree, and offer greater structural integrity. The 22 ga. is working just fine, but a thicker gauge would be a good improvement over this first attempt. Solder those “posts” to the connectors, at the locations seen here.
Next, use a simple clamp to secure each microswitch at the exact location you want it, then solder the posts to the TP-MA. I got this Dewalt clamp at Home Depot, for around $5. It also works to prop up the TP-MA for easier soldering.
All 4 switches soldered in place. Don’t worry if there’s a little bit of play when you touch the switch. It should be absolutely tight to the PCB so the solder joint doesn’t fail over time, but if it moves ever so slightly, the restrictor plate will secure it in place and eliminate that play. https://klovimg.com/images/2017/11/23/7.md.jpg https://klovimg.com/images/2017/11/23/8.md.jpg
Lastly, install it on your JLF, and have fun. The result is amazing, at least for my personal preferences. Your mileage may vary. (please reserve comment about the zip ties holding the JLF in place…I bought the case used, and just slapped the build together last night…haven’t corrected for the fact yet, that I dont’ have any spare hold-down bolts.)
Helpful pictures, thank you for sharing! How do these cherries feel compared to stock? I’ve read they are lighter, but is, say, the engage distance any different?
Definitely lighter feel and shorter engage than stock. Feels like a shorter throw too but i think that technically it should be the same. I’m really happy with the difference and improvement to my execution. In theory, if you use a smaller gauge wire for the through holes like I did, you could adjust the position of the cherrys slightly and tweak engage distance slightly either way. .
^like I said I wanted it as close to original as possible. Soldering the switches to tp-ma is more true to original, in my mind. In theory the switch triggers sitting slightly lower (toward thw e-clip) shortens engage distance, compare to tp-ma not being there. It is very touchy…hair trigger.