checked out your work at we and started to assemble the circuit. Is it possible the support 8 button layouts instead of 6 buttons?
Could you tell me the button mapping for PS3?
Bye,
Ben
Wow that looks nice!! Good work.
Love the LCD!
DC does matter because I’d rather have native DC support than have to find the right converter. Might as well say USB doesn’t matter because there are PS2 -> USB converters.
Hi,
rebuild your circuit for PC and PS3. Here’re some pics.
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YLXgzxS8cEc/Sm364mzaixI/AAAAAAAAAtE/ZTTIhFtoI1M/s320/CIMG0887.JPG
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_YLXgzxS8cEc/Sm364BgQ98I/AAAAAAAAAs8/WHNMI9giWOg/s320/CIMG0888.JPG
Works like a charme,
Ben
Nice work bencao74. I love seeing pictures of things people have built based on my designs!
The new version uses an ATmega168. Apart from more code space which is essential, it also has a lot more I/O pins so will be able to support all 13 PS3 buttons, as well as providing two RS232 buses for communication with optional add-on modules such as an LCD screen and logger.
I’ll sort out a web site for it at some point, I’m just really busy with other stuff like the Retro Adapter at the moment.
Hi,
yeah saw your work about the retroadapter V2.02 (?) with the option of connecting dreamcast controllers. Thus means you have re-engineered the maple bus 
What about to implement the controller side to get rid off padhacking?
I’ve adapted based on your comments the source to 8 button layout plus HOME, SELECT and START. I’ve a little issue left. Button 9 SELECT is always activated. Send you details per mails.
So we’ve a little small device with PS3 Support. Perhaps worth for a branch …
mojochan,
I was wondering how far your progress is on this?
Don’t want to put any pressure on you since this is a more of an intellectual exercise for you (and I totally understand that), but what’s the ETA on first-production PCB units? We looking at 6-8 months (that’s reasonable to me if nobody else)? (Gonna be in school again to get certification for a work in the medical industry during those months anyway and it’s going to eat up my time like crazy as is…!)
Anyways, nice to see you and a few other fellows are getting headway on this project.
I saw your BBC video and was impressed by what you did with those old controllers and that old Pac-Man board.
I’ll leave you alone now but know that I wish you luck on the universal PCB you’re working on.
Cheers!
bencao74, I am working on Dreamcast connectivity for the joystick controller. I have it working in the Dreamcast menus and most games, but there are still a few which don’t like it. Once it’s perfect I’ll release it.
GeorgeC, I hope to have prototypes made before the end of the year. I just ordered (hopefully) final prototypes for Retro Adapter, so it should be more or less complete soon. Before then I’ll put schematics and code on my web site. Actually, I’m hoping to do that tomorrow, but keep in mind that at this early stage things may change quite a bit so I wouldn’t recommend building one just yet.
I have been looking at the UPCB to see if I can be compatible with the console cables it uses. Some cables are going to be compatible, such as the Playstation one, but others are not. I have also found someone who can supply broken XBOX 360 pads, so I’m hoping to have a small supply of late model pads to play with.
Is there any way that we could hook up a RJ45 output instead? I’d be happy with any way I can output it, but you can mount the RJ45 nicely
Sega Saturn cords definitely won’t be a problem for me… I have 3 of them from attempted dual-mods that I saved!
As for the PS2 extension cords, it’s still fairly easy to get these in the US. They can be had for $5 a piece plus shipping. I’m assuming that the UPCB will also support PS3. Shouldn’t be much problem modding some generic USB cord for that, either, I take it?
Don’t know if I really need to worry about the direct Dreamcast connection IF the UPCB works with converters. I have a Total Control 3 converter for Saturn-to-DC.
As noted before, the sad part about Toodles’ UPCB is the lack of compatibility with converters in general. I also have noted the predisposition towards the PlayStation and XBox 1 lines but general inaccessibility towards everything else.
I know that there are other retro- and Sega players who don’t feel like any current in-production replacement PCB is serving their gaming needs now.
Sure about this? UPCB supports nearly all console protocols. Don’t see the need of a converter.
?? I dont understand.
And the Cthulhu MC has been reported to work fine with PS2->DC converters. And I’m guessing PS2->Saturn converters work likewise.
If you do this, I hope you also provide a simpler option as well. That’s one of the huge reasons I gave up on it.
Don’t care about the PS2=> DC Converters as I don’t own one of those.
It’s the Saturn=>DC or support for DC period that I care about.
Saturn seems to be doable. I have not read where the Total Control 3 or other similar converters work with any existing UPCB…
This was in the first post of the UPCB thread:
Q: What about Dreamcast support?
A: Dreamcast is gonna be hard, but I havent given up hope on it. For a good while, Dreamcast won’t be supported, but I hope to figure out how to do it eventually. You can still use a Dreamcast project box, piggyback a Dreamcast PCB, or use the working Saturn support with a Saturn->Dreamcast converter like the Innovation.
Just a follow up as I know this is searched out a lot, and I hate dead ended topic questions. The dream cast 12mhz was a success, without the need for more hardware. thx to mojochan and his side kick mr L. Analyzer.
Thank you mojochan !
Okay, been playing a bit of Pacman lately and I had an idea. I made a special Atari joystick to USB converter for a friend to use just on Pacman. It has the usual 8 way mode, but also a 4 way mode. There were a few old arcade games that used 4 way sticks. I might look at adding 4 way mode to this adapter.
Oh, and the preliminary name is “Superplay”. Comments and suggestions welcome
Things are moving slowly due to me being a bit ill, but with luck things will speed up soon.
There are not enough pins on an RJ45. Neo Geo needs 10 pins, Saturn needs 9 etc. On top of that, you need some spare pins to use as keys so the controller can auto-detect what it is connected to.
You could use a HD15 connector (the type used for VGA), or maybe two RJ45s. The PCB will have a place to put a DB15 but you can solder anything you like to it.
I can get them for about 50p each in bulk some times, but often it’s more like a few pounds. Luckily I can use the other end for another project (the Retro Adapter) so that halves their cost
It does work with the converters I have tried, which are an Elcom PS2->USB converter and a no-name PS2/Saturn/N64 to Dreamcast converter. I can’t guarantee 100% compatibility, but I will test everything I have available.
Unfortunately, most (all?) converters are not officially sanctioned products, and they tend to behave differently to the actual console.
That was pretty much my motivation.
Well, looking at it I think I’ve given up on connector compatibility. The design seems random and as you say is difficult to fabricate. I think the basic problem is once again down to the PIC microcontroller. To keep costs down the designer did not want to use pull-up resistors if he could avoid it, which makes wiring a lot trickier.
My connectors are designed for simplicity and ease of construction. Instead of having low and high key lines all over the place, I have just low lines right next to the GND pin for ease of connection. I use left over component legs and just solder them along the DB15 into the right places. I’m going to try and get it so that the most popular console connectors require the least amount of work to make.
I was even considering making a little PCB that the DB15 would connect to, and with suitable solder points and jumper points. I don’t think there could be an easier way of making connectors than that.
The UPCB will never support Dreamcast directly. The PIC microcontroller is simply too slow. It is impossible, period.
Glad I could help! I am impressed you got it to work at 12MHz, the code must be very tight (6 clock cycles per bit!)
- My original though as well but once I took a closer look at your readout.
http://spawnlinux.dyndns.org/tmp/clocks.JPG
Now, at first I took a few doubles takes, scratched my head, and then looked again. I said to my self, … self? This is not 500 , this is 750. 750 / 83.3333(repeat ) is 9. Nine clocks, not 6, am I wrong?? In either case I was programming this is 6 steps. and had the code right to do it.
sbic PINx,SCKB ;D7
sec
st X+,r18
clr r18
rol r18
sbic PINx,SCKA ;D6
sec
rol r18
nop
nop
nop
;and on to the other bits...
And it would just not work… So after I saw your read out, I put in 3 nops for each step, and it just started working. This entire time I was told and read that it was 6 clocks from start of bit to bit, buts its not!
And today I made another adjustment and now I’m able to read the data with exact timing no hand adjustments. This just about sent me to drink…Again, it looked to me like that was not possible, but its working… Verified on 3 OEM controllers . 3rd party still wont reply to my device request dont know why…
I’d be happy to show more code upon requests but its not my intention to geek up this topic.
PS. hope you get better man.
Oh btw anyone know about this?
Looks like there is a market for this kind of thing.
Hi Paul,
Nice that you want to implement this idea. I think we talked about this 2 month ago:
http://bencao74.blogspot.com/2009/06/248-ways-testing-phase.html
I’ve implemented this circuit based on a Atmega8 dedictaed for Arcade Cabs. Testing phase is done with some guys from the Arcadezentrum.de Forum in germany. It works awesome and is a great help. I’m currently producing a larger batch. PCBs will be delivered very soon. I’ll keep you informed.
Ben