Missing Person, grab a multimeter and you’ll probably be able to detemine for sure if your imp is dead/
thank you bomberman and toodles for your great writeup . the diagram chart you have for installing cthulhu and imp board to TE x360 is perfect and spot on. my first time soddering 30gauge wires to small pinouts and it took me 5hrs total. including taking screws off and putting it back together, cutting wire lengths, splicing, soddering, (correcting my soddering lol). heres pics of mine
one thing though… when using it on ps3…
the turbo function does not seem to work.
but on x360 it does as it originally did. any input on this? thats the only function i tested that did not work on ps3.
edit: thanks for reply kreeeee… btw i like ur avatar lol
It’s not meant to work.
As Kreeeee above says, think about it - why would a Cthulhu board be compatible with what is essentially a Mad Catz SF4 PCB feature?
It’s like asking why the Turbo feature doesn’t work on PS2 or Gamecube. Turbo is easily one of the worst things about these SF4 sticks, so you shouldn’t see it as a loss but rather as a glimpse to the path of purity.
Quite tempted to rip out my own Mad Catz motherboards and replace with wired pad PCB’s…
That would be silly, Gahrling. It’s not like turbo is always coming on by mistake or something.
For me, ‘Turbo’ is a completely pointless feature on an arcade stick, as is the ‘Lock’ switch, and the analogue switch. All this does is to overcomplicate a PCB and increase production costs for the company. The only redeemable feature of the ‘Lock’ switch is to route it to an IMP board, but was this in the mind of the designers at the time?
As for problems… there are known issues with Turbo lights switching on & off on unmodded and modded sticks. While this does not actually trigger the Turbo feature itself, it demonstrates that something isn’t quite right with these affected batches of PCB’s (and is quite irritating to boot).
Which makes me wonder - is the Turbo feature something MarkMan genuinely wanted to add to these sticks, or was this just something that the Mad Catz execs wanted adding to create the illusion of “extra value”?
IMO, in terms of retail arcade sticks for consoles, the VSHG is the closest in way of perfection. If it weren’t for the faulty batch of PCB’s and ugly yellow buttons anyway…
Regardless, I have no qualms in replacing the existing 360 motherboard in a TE stick with a standard wired pad PCB. Then covering up that horrible Turbo panel with some of Doomy’s custom cut plexi sheets.
EDIT: a forum mod needs to resize/delete those overly big pictures in this thread. Talk about overstretching the forum’s boundaries…
complete noob here 
but I thought I’d ask as this will be my first mod EVER!
Okay so I have:
a pc/ps3 cuthulu board(preassembled :D, I said I was a noob :p)
I am getting a dpdt switch from radio shack
now when soldering this in does it need to goto the pcb or can it go to the wires?
(the ones on right right that go directly into the buttons)
I am 99% sure it wouldnt make a difference with going to the pcb or the wires but I thought I’d double check.
sorry for the noob post but I do not want to mess the stick up because i didnt ask questions.
Eissan, please read the guide thoroughly before asking questions.
found the answer I was looking for 
sorry for not reading the tutorial first:D I saw 40+ pages and got scared haha.
I posted a while back a HUGE thank you to everyone on the thread for making this such an easy process. My Dual is a thing of beauty.
I’m wondering though about “upgrades” so to speak. I have a PS3-only Cthu (premade kit) + X360 TE + IMP, and now I am very tempted purchase the upgrade chip to make it MC. I’m wondering the steps and potential problems I might encounter if I do that. I’m guessing I’d have to desolder the power from the Cthu USB 5v to the V-3 point? I currently have the Cthu in the IMP’s D1 points and I have to hold the Guide button to switch to x360 mode. Will I have to change this around and make the x360 the primary?
And also with that, try as I might, I just couldn’t find anyone with pictures of their setup where their Cthu is the RS option. I’m a little confused as to how I would set that up if I wanted to. Do I solder the Cthu Guide button to the RS point on the underside of the TE control panel’s PCB? Wouldn’t I need to solder a few more things around for that to work properly? That’s the part that throws me off when I read through the comments.
Thanks!!!
Hello, I’m trying to do a dualmod with a only ps3 cthulhu and the SE Stick and I’m having a problem.
I’m connecting the madcatz pcb to the imp as number 1 and the cthulhu as number 2, using the ls/dp/rs switch to change between consoles, pcb number one in ls/dp and console number two in rs.
When I connect the Madcatz PCB to the imp alone, works perfect. (usb is going from the imp)
When I connect the Madcatz PCB and the Cthulhu to the imp, the Madcatz doesn’t work and the Cthulhu works perfect setting the switch to RS.
The thing is, when I put the switch in LS or DP, the ring of light of the controller lights up completely (the 4 lights) and my computer doesn’t recognize it, haven’t tried in the xbox yet.
I’m doing the following connection:
imp ground to madcatz usb ground
imp vcc to madcatz usb vcc
imp d+1 to madcatz d+
imp d-1 to madcatz d-
imp d+2 to cthulhu d+
imp d-2 to cthulhu d-
madcatz usb vcc to cthulhu vcc (on the side, not usb)
madcatz usb ground to cthulgu ground (on the side, not usb)
If someone knows what could be, will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
If anyone could help, I’ve got my wiring figured out (I think) up until this point: http://img199.imageshack.us/img199/7110/questionwj.jpg
What is this point on the SE that is going from ______ to the Guide button?
The label on the board is ‘RSTICK’, and it goes to the point labelled ‘Guide’ in the Imp.
Thanks for the quick reply! :lovin:
Another, quick question: Do you know where this would be on a normal controller (in this case a Pelican 360 controller)?
I don’t think there’d be an equivalent point - the LS DP RS is exclusive to the TE for selecting which dpad/stick to use. A dedicated GUIDE point would probably the closest thing to what you described, though; if you used a Pelican, you’d probably connect the GUIDE point from the imp to the GUIDE point on the Pelican, and you’d hold GUIDE to select between the two consoles.
Where you connect the imp’s GUIDE point to determines which button you hold if you want to switch consoles. For example, if you connected the imp’s GUIDE point to directional arrow UP, then you’d hold UP when plugging in to determine the PCB the imp will “engage.”
Someone please correct me if I’m wrong.
That’s how I have it wired currently and the imp is defaulting the power to the 360 pcb when I hook it up to my PS3. However, I don’t think there is an issue with the wiring on the Cthulhu because I tested it out on my Wii and TvC and things went smoothly.
That’s strange… my dualmod was with a PS3 only Cthulhu, so I’m not too sure I can offer too much help. But to me, it seems like the Cthulhu’s working well enough if it’s working on your Wii.
Can you get it working at all on your PS3?
NVM… after a night of sleep I figured out the problem, the usb cable that I was connecting to the imp was doing to much pressure over the soldering points and wasn’t connecting properly. What I did was to connect 4 small cables to the imp and attach the usb to this cables.
This is the result of the dualmod:
http://s2.subirimagenes.com/fotos/previo/thump_3747987p1000341.jpg
Thanks to the great tutorials I got this mod completed, you guys rock!
First of all, thanks bomberman and everyone for the tips and pictures of everything. My mod is working perfectly but I want to do a little more to make my mind at ease.
The usb wires to the imp currently look like a mess so I was wondering if I can extend the madcatz usb wires with 30 awg for a cleaner solder to the imp. Currently the madcatz usb is either 22 or 24 awg and I want to know if its ok to go from 22 to 30 awg to the imp.
I don’t have much background in wiring and want to know if there is anything wrong with the signals if I extend the wires with different wire sizes.