The UPCB is great, don’t get me wrong, but it’s not simple. The original PS3 Cthulhu was designed completely with the goal of easy installation. Thus, preassembled options, small size board, screw terminals, and USB jack. Even though it’s not as uber buff as the UPCB, it’s a bazillion times easier to install and use.
The PS3 + Xbox360 dual mods don’t require much, all told, to do. The amount of wiring is actually less than a UPCB would require, and there’s no need to install a DB-15 jack on the stick, which isn’t easy.
I still love the UPCB project, and use my UPCB stick more than any other. But the Cthulhu is FAR more usable and accessible to the average stick builder.
Some people have asked me to give a more detailed diagram of my MC + Imp + 360 TE mod. So I drew up a quick diagram connecting the important points. The buttons and directions just match the colors and/or letters when connecting them together.
I’m about to tackle this project myself. I currently have a TE 360 Stick, but own a PS3. I’d like to also be able to play on my friend’s 360 so this would work out perfectly.
Now, for someone with zero soldering experience, will this be easily done?
Also, what do you use to tell your stick to go from 360 or PS3 mode, and then back and forth?
OckS you use the Guide/Home button. Hold it while plugging the stick in to switch to the 2nd system that’s connected to the Imp. If you hold nothing it’ll default to the first system.
As for the difficulty, some of the soldering points are pretty tiny. I’d recommend practicing a little first. Still, it’s mostly about patience since there’s a ton of wires involved. Good luck!
Great guide and excellent pictures bomb! Now I wonder if there’s anyways to make a dual mod WIRELESS stick! Since mine is already wireless with the axisdapter, I wonder if I can dual mod it also.
Boogahh sadly you can’t do a dual wireless stick using a SixAxis or DualShock 3 because those pads are not common ground. However, a Madcatz SF4 FightPad for PS3 should work.
Linkgt you can buy Imp boards straight from Toodles - check the first page of the Cthulhu thread for ordering info.
The ‘thick black wire’ is the shielding ground. Easiest thing to do is cut it short and just ignore it. Second easiest thing to do is solder it to one of the big, lined mounting holes the USB jack uses.
Yes! All we need is Toodles or some other knowledgeable soul to explain what special steps would be necessary for managing the power between the 2 wireless PCBs.
I followed your diagram Bomberman but still get no response form the stick when trying to power up.
I have a fully assembled MC, wires soldered to the bottom points (Not using the terminals as 30 gauge wire doesn’t fit snug) and am using D1 and E1 from the MC to the IMP for USB.
Also, The diagram looks to indicate that the USB cable is to be removed from the 360 board and soldered to the top of the IMP. I have done this.
REMEMBER, BOMBERMAN’s connection description has MC PCB as Master and TE PCB as slave, so if you want to use it on a 360, you need to hold the guide button while plugging the USB cable to the 360 console, otherwise MC PCB is activated first and Xbox360 will not see the stick at all
I have a few final question. I used the G1 on the MC to ground the outgoing D1 & E1 for USB. I routed G1 to the empty black port on the MC (Between ST & RT). (This is ground… Correct?) Is this necessary?
Also, I would like to have my 360 as the Master, so all I would have to do is swap out the two IMP USB positions?
To answer your last question, Maven, yes, swapping out the Data positions on the Imp will change which console is the master and which is the slave. But apparently for the MC Cthulhu it’s best to keep PS3 as the # 1 system and 360 as the second. Still, if you’re not using the other consoles (GC, Xbox 1, PS2) it’s no big deal.
Nubian reading my guide would surely show you several photographs of the Imp board and also a link to Toodles’ Imp thread. C’mon, put your back into it.
That’s a bit beyond me at this point. Maybe later