That will work as long as it’s been dual modded correctly, but it will just be ugly and inelegant as Hell.
i.e Conforming with the golden rules?
- ground with ground
- power with power
- buttons with buttons
?
Luckily, the Injustice stick comes with a disconnectable USB cable. So in MOST cases, it’ll just have one USB cable around the stick lol. That is, until the customer decides to use PS3 side… but I’ve asked him. He’s okay with the cable sticking out.
I bought an injustice stic but i didnt know it needed a cable to plug in. where can i find that cable by itself?
If you are handy with a soldering iron you can reuse the Mini USB connector, but its not hard to install a Neutrik
I did both on My Injustice stick
Almost any Mini USB cable will work, some will have the physical plug plastic being too big and you have to shave the plastic down
So I just connected the wires together, no switch used. So I have X360 Brawlpad having it’s own USB cable coming out.
- power connected together
- ground connected together
- buttons to buttons.
I’m having the same issue that @tsipsi is having where when I press “up” in X360 mode, the controller disconnects.
Has any solutions been found for this yet?
I’ve taken a photo of the PCB where I think is the 0 ohm resistor @Gummo was referring to (labelled B1, B2). Can any one confirm this?
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/37212170/2014-04-13%2017.34.14.jpg
Can no one else help on this matter?
Can someone at least help me identify what B1/B2 are? R01/R02 are 22 ohm resistors, but they are (obviously) not the 0 ohm resistors that Gummo was referring to… unless we’re to remove the 22ohm resistors and just bridge the gap with solder or something.
This is a PS3 Injustice stick, by the way.
This method is for using the mini usb jack to connect to an imp or physical switch.
The removal of the 0ohm resistors on 360 pcbs was the equivalent of cutting its data line wires. This will not work on ps3 pcbs.
After doing more IJ mods I’ve found it much easier to just cut the ribbon cable instead. This method should be doable on both system versions.
The up issue has nothing to do with all that. Best course of action is to use diodes on that directional signal to isolate the two signals.
Here’s how my stick looks like currently. I switched out the microswitches inside the buttons with Sanwas so I can still use the LEDs. However, the LED in the joystick is on its last legs.
I dont know if this was mentioned but a sanwa JLF sticks perfectly. All you have to do is change the mounting plate switch it with the injustice one and thats it. I changed every part in the stick except of course the PCB. Since i dont really care for the led function i didnt bother with it.
Read the first post before actually posting. FYI, I stated the JLF will swap (everything besides the plate) in the modding section of the first post.
Like what Nucking Futs already stated,
This was already started and confirmed twice by other modders before hand that the JLF will mount in the injustice stick. I even showed how to mount seimitsu joysticks in the injustice shell.
Does anyone know the screw sizes for the bottom panel and the plexiglass?
Thanks
Edit: nevermind I found it
Does anyone know if this works on the ps4 for SFV before i go out and buy the usb cable?
Not all mini USB cables fit properly in the Injustice stick.
I’m curious as well since I miss having it. Components are meh but looks so nice & LED’s from the factory!
First thing I did to my Injustice stick actually to gut out all the LEDs. Going with a PS360+ install, Seimitsu buttons and no LED controller, I gave up on the LEDS.
I acquired this stick off of ebay a few months ago. I replaced the switches in the buttons (I actually like the buttons) and I replaced almost every component in the stick itself with parts from a JLF. I have limited experience with the Hori Hayabusa, but I actually prefer the feel of it over the JLF. People have told me that if I can get a JLF to fit that I can the hayabusa to fit. My question is has anyone attempted to fit a hayabusa in one of these sticks. My knowledge on the hayabusa itself is lacking, but the base plate looks more like a seimitsu stick (in that respect I mean it is much wider than the JLF plate), and I have already seen what had to be done to fit one of those in this case. Is it really as simple as changing out the mounting plate like people are telling me? I really feel like I was given incorrect information which is why I came here. I would hate to have to find out by buying one only to get the surprise of having to dremel the shit out of stuff. I am not scared of what most people consider “advaced” modifications, but I am curious as to if it is really as simple as attaching the hayabusa to the stick’s original stock mounting plate. I know I would have to sacrifice the stock LED lighting of the lever, but that isn’t a problem as I already know another way to get the same effect. Thanks
The Hayabusa is too large to fit without some cutting. It’s also too large to retain the plastic around the nuts that hold the mounting plate, so that had to go.
Also if you use the PDP mounting plate its going to bend a bit when you tighten it all down.
In the end it all works fine though.
I had to cut alot of plastic to fit a LS-32 in the Injustice stick.
Anything other than the stock joystick and maybe the Sanwa JLF will need case cutting (even the LS-56, 58, 60, 62)
Thanks for your replies. Been wanting to try something different. I have also been considering a ls-32 or ls-56. Cutting the case isn’t going to be a problem. I replaced most of the stocks parts, but from what I hear about the ls-32 I would actually prefer the feel of that. Never used a seimitsu stick personally.